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Location: South West Florida
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New problem

Well I had a ticking sound comming from #4. I though I would adjust the valves. When I pulled the lower valve cover the swivel end on the adjusting screw was in the valve cover.
Do I replace the screw and foot and hope for the best or what? Of coarse there is some pieces of the swivel foot chipped off and unaccounted for.

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2000 Boxster S (gone)
1972 911s Targa (sold)
1971 911t coupe roller (sold)
1973 911t coupe / 3.2 (sold)
Gruppe B #057
Old 03-15-2004, 06:05 AM
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What does the top of the valve stem and the cam lobe look like? If both are smooth and shiny I would just replace the adjusting screw and foot. Hopefully the metal pieces went to the bottom of the sump. I would also change the oil and look for those pieces.
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Kurt V
No more Porsches, but a revolving number of motorcycles.
Old 03-15-2004, 06:08 AM
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Thanks Kurt. The valve stem and cam lobe look OK. I'll pull the sump next.
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2000 Boxster S (gone)
1972 911s Targa (sold)
1971 911t coupe roller (sold)
1973 911t coupe / 3.2 (sold)
Gruppe B #057
Old 03-15-2004, 06:15 AM
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Don't forget to take a look at the rocker arm and make sure it isn't cracked.
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Kurt V
No more Porsches, but a revolving number of motorcycles.
Old 03-15-2004, 06:22 AM
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I would also reccomend doing the oil changes in quick succession just in case. That way what doesn't get down to the sump the first time will the second. I am only suggesting 2 quickies! If the cam looks fine the rocker should too. Check to make sure like Kurt says.

Kurt, pull that Frog Eye off the list. it keeps calling to me Sweet
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Old 03-15-2004, 06:45 AM
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Can the rocker arm be removed while its still in the engine. I didn't think about the swivel foot being biger that the threaded hole. How else would I get this thing back in?
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2000 Boxster S (gone)
1972 911s Targa (sold)
1971 911t coupe roller (sold)
1973 911t coupe / 3.2 (sold)
Gruppe B #057
Old 03-15-2004, 09:32 AM
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The rocker can be removed while it is still in the engine. You will need a 5mm and an 8mm hex wrench. turn the 5mm side and back the bolt out. The hard part will be to get the shaft out. If you can't come up with another way, if it is on the driver's side, remove the engine tin and start removing the #3 rocker and move towards the one you need. On the other side, the cooler would have to come out. Good luck!
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2002 C2 Cab, 1982 sc, 1978 sc, 1976 s,1985.5 944, 2003 Honda Pilot, 2001 Volvo X/C 70, 1977 FIAT 124 spyder (an abarth someday), 2 1984 Vanagon Westis
1958 BugEye Sprite, 1960 BE Sprite, 1978 Yamaha XS11 1970 Honda 750 K0, 1982 BMW R65RT, 1997 Duc 916
Old 03-15-2004, 09:38 AM
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Its #4. I see the allen heads. Do I just remove the allen bolt and push?
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2000 Boxster S (gone)
1972 911s Targa (sold)
1971 911t coupe roller (sold)
1973 911t coupe / 3.2 (sold)
Gruppe B #057
Old 03-15-2004, 09:45 AM
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That's it. MAke sure you remove it at the 5mm side and stabilive the 8mm. The 8mm is the nut and the 5mm is the bolt. There is also a shaped "washer" on the 5mm side to keep track of. It may want to stay with the shaft. Get it out before attempting to remove the shaft. It would figure it's #4, huh.
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2002 C2 Cab, 1982 sc, 1978 sc, 1976 s,1985.5 944, 2003 Honda Pilot, 2001 Volvo X/C 70, 1977 FIAT 124 spyder (an abarth someday), 2 1984 Vanagon Westis
1958 BugEye Sprite, 1960 BE Sprite, 1978 Yamaha XS11 1970 Honda 750 K0, 1982 BMW R65RT, 1997 Duc 916
Old 03-15-2004, 09:52 AM
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Thanks. That wasn't so bad. Now I can finally start the valve adjustment.

__________________
2000 Boxster S (gone)
1972 911s Targa (sold)
1971 911t coupe roller (sold)
1973 911t coupe / 3.2 (sold)
Gruppe B #057
Old 03-15-2004, 10:08 AM
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