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Two hours of busted knuckles, BP Blaster, and finally a drill for the last of the three screws the FD is separated from the rest of the thing. The plunger is apparently welded in there--it won't even turn in place. Next--new/used fuel dist. or disassemble this one. Any advice on that job?
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Join Date: Jan 2002
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Here's a pic of when I rebuilt mine. The plunger was stuck on this one too, but it was before I knew about the compressed air method. You can do it if you have the patience, or you can find a used distributor for around $200.
![]() -Rob 1980sc |
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Quote:
Quote:
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Blue nitrile from Harbor Fright (sic) or purple nitrile from work.
Neither provides much cushion when the rachet slips..... And here is my caged spider: ![]() |
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
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sometimes you can get a grip on the end tit with some needlenose visegrips and get it to move.
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dr, no. it will move. you gotta use carb spray. pb blaster is way to thick to get inbetween the tight clearances. think about it, gasoline cant get through. no way pb will even stand a chance. you may need a new FD anyways, so time to get medival on your existing one. at least that was my philosophy. needlenose pliers and carb spray. spray the bastard down, and grab the tip with the pliers and just start push/pulling it to get it to move. you will barely do anything at first, and then you kinda build up momentum. more spray and repeat. the smart money is on you, not the damn plunger. once it pops out, it may fly. dont let it hit the ground. you efforts would be wasted if you hit hit the flying control plunger against anything hard. like i said, the machine tolerance is amazing!
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you can get new screws to hold it down easy. and they dont need to be so damn tight. they only need to hold the FD down, and there are three of them!
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If you have an understanding wife or significant other maybe putting it in a hot oven (450) for about a half hour will cause the metal to expand enought to allow you to remove the plunger. Carb cleaner use to work fine for me. Just don't reach into the cleaner if you have scrapes or cuts on your hand. Last edited by ruf-porsche; 03-17-2004 at 03:09 PM.. |
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Properly, it should be spelled "teat" and pronounced "tit".
When I said welded, I meant welded. Hemostat, needle nose, Visegrip, nothing will move it at all. The whole FD is now sitting in a can of Chem-Dip. Maybe for a week. |
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"Underneath the mango tree..."
Sorry...didn't have anything in particular to add...just that...No will understand...
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I understand................. |
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Mission accomplished!
Nine days in the chem-dip bucket, sprayed it off (I hate the way that stuff smells), grabbed the teat with the needle-nose (kinky) and it resisted a moment, and now moves freely. All reassembled and re-installed and the injectors spray only when the plate moves. But now, no spark. New topic.... |
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Well, now that you have learned patience ...
Less brute force will be needed for the CDI system, but cutting and crimping will be needed for the bench test ... 72 911 T all the sudden no spark
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no spark is harder.
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Bondi, Sydney, Australia
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Persist it will pop out
Just in case this helps, reviving an old thread.
I had the same problem, gas pouring into each cylinder when the ignition was on - CIS was sending fuel continuously. Culprit was a stuck fuel distributer plunger, which was as result of vanished fuel because car was sitting around for a couple of years during restoration. I ended up taking the whole flapper and distributer off (didn't like the look of the tree screws), I used lots of carb cleaner on the plunger and then compressed air into the centre inlet on top of distributer to free the plunger with the distributer right way up on rags so that when plunger released it popped onto rags. It took some time and effort, and now running beautifully. Needless to say very happy. Thanks to this board and Pelicanites.
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Wow, nice revival!
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Great timing for me with the exact same issue. Wish I'd found this thread 8 weeks ago!
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