Carrera Tail Hardware

Par911 · 03-17-2004, 08:04 AM

I have a Carrera tail that I need to mount onto my SC decklid. What size bolts would I need? Is there any other hardware that is required? I have heard that there is some sort of kit out there for mounting it. If there is a kit, where can I find it? Anyone got a clue as to what I need to get this tail on my SC? Thanks!

Par911 · 03-17-2004, 09:04 AM

I know there's someone out there that knows? Anyone, please help!

thabaer · thabaer's Garage

bump...

Can't help, mines a one-piece but I see tons of the bolt-ons in pics posted here.

KTL · 03-17-2004, 09:59 AM

You need some M6 screws (allen head are the originals) some misc. washers & nuts, a tail base gasket (#6 in the picture), a support rail that spreads the load of the tail across the lid (#'s 12 or 13 & 14). You'll find that you have to drill holes in the lid to mount the tail. Contrary to popular belief, the Carrera tail does not mount to the opening in the lid left by removing the SC grill. Additional mounting holes are needed below the grill opening on the lid.

KTL · 03-17-2004, 10:05 AM

You can see in this picture that the forward part of the tail does mount within the opening for the tail-less grill. But the rearward/lower part of the Carrera tail fastens beyond the grill opening (arrows). The arrow point to the outer screws on the support rail under the lid.

Par911 · 03-17-2004, 10:32 AM

Thanks alot Kevin!! Any idea where I can find some "M6 screws (allen head are the originals) and a support rail" . I have the tail base gasket. Can the screws be found at my local hardware store? I appreciate your help.

Par911 · 03-17-2004, 10:33 AM

Thanks for the bump Charlie.

KTL · 03-17-2004, 11:04 AM

Yeah, your local hardware store should have the screws. They're standard M6 x 1.00 screws. Nothing fancy. They should be 10 or 15mm long as needed.

The rail might be a little harder to find. Post a wanted to buy (WTB) in the classifieds using that picture up there. Or maybe call a few dismantlers/parts yards for that rail. It's not really necessary, but helps to spread the load across the length of the lid. You could actually make your own rail with a couple pieces of strip metal from the same hardware store. A thick strip of aluminum sheet stock or angle stock would work well.

Par911 · 03-17-2004, 11:50 AM

You're a good man, Kevin. I owe you a beer at Hershey. See you at the Bear's den.

Crash94536 · 03-17-2004, 11:53 AM

Thanks for posting the image Kevin.

I had to remove mine because it was cracking around the front along the mounting holes.

I have an idea on how to fix/reinforce it so it will end up much stronger without blocking the airflow to the oil cooler.

Your image will help me identify some of the parts I want to replace.

When I am done I will post the pictures, I am sure I am not the only one with this problem.

Darryl

William Miller · 03-17-2004, 01:16 PM

Pari, Strosniders would have those bolts too.

Par911 · 03-17-2004, 02:18 PM

Thanks Bill, I will check Strosniders out tomorrow.

Are you coming to the NoVA gathering or the brake rebuild party this saturday? Hopefully I can look at somone elses setup that has a bolt on tail to figure out what they did for a support rail. I do like the idea of fabricating one

.

William Miller · 03-18-2004, 05:37 AM

Pari, the store is in bethesda. It would be easy for me to pick up these bolts along with the bolts where you removed the air pump.
I just need the length of those. You can get the aluminum stock at lowes down the street from you. You can use my band saw to cut it and the drill press.

I don't know about Sat. Chris, my son has a game on PG county at 1pm.
I'm thinking I could do a drive by after for a few minutes.
Let me know if you want me to pick up the bolts.
You have my cell # right?

KTL · 03-18-2004, 07:40 AM

Sorry Pari,

Won't be making the trek to Hershey this year. Last year was brutal. It'll be a long time before I get the urge to make that trip again. 1400 miles in 38 hrs., I believe. That was rough. Plus I didn't come home with diddly! Except that sign.

On a lighter note.............. if anybody would like a better picture of the underside of the engine lid, let me know!

Par911 · 03-18-2004, 10:05 AM

Quote:

It would be easy for me to pick up these bolts along with the bolts where you removed the air pump.

Bill you have a PM.

Quote:

Won't be making the trek to Hershey this year. Last year was brutal. It'll be a long time before I get the urge to make that trip again. 1400 miles in 38 hrs., I believe. That was rough.

Too bad Kevin, I'll just have stop by and buy you a drink when I drive through IL on my way to Iowa!
You all are great people!!!

KTL · 03-19-2004, 05:28 AM

Here's some pics of the lid underside as promised. Hope they help some.

glee911 · 03-19-2004, 06:20 AM

Kevin, you seem to know everything. Seems a lot more parts than at first glance. Luckily my car came with the optional front and rear spoiler otherwise I would be going through this same process. I have to adjust the base gasket on mine. So thanks for the part illustration.

William Miller · 03-19-2004, 06:21 AM

Great pictures kevin! I dropped off some hardware at Pari's last night.
The parts diagram (Pet) showed something like speed nuts (I think 5) Is that what the bolys screw into above the backing plate?

My guess is that the backing plate is there to help support the area between where the bolts go thru and spread the load of the bolt. (I think this will help keep the seam between the lid and the tail tight.

Pari did you get the little brackets that go from the front of the tail to the four front holes?
Kevin, I see what looks like a ground strap that goes thru the hinge in the last picture. What's it for? Is there something besides the engine compartment light on the rear deck.
It also looks like there are 2 little brackets or clips that might hold a support rod. Same picture near the front edge of the lid?

KTL · 03-19-2004, 06:49 AM

glee,

Thanks for the compliment. I enjoy the Porsches a little too much and get a kick out of looking thru the parts diagrams to see what goes where.

I don't think you'll be able to adjust the base gasket too much. The gasket shrinks with age, not to mention gets kinda dried out and inflexible. It's also got an adhesive backing on it, so once you take it off, I don't think it'll go back on too well. I'd recommend getting a new gasket. Only $12 from Pelican. Should save you some trouble in the long run. It'll look nicer too.

William,

Those speed nuts attach to the spoiler itself. I believe they're the slip-on kind? But yes, those speed nuts are what the screws thru the backing plate screw into. I too assume that the backing plate spreads the load of the spoiler across more area. Probably for those times that one uses the spoiler itself as a handle to open the engine lid. I'd think the backing plate prevents the lid from getting "dimpled" by the screws pulling on the engine lid?

My car has two of those ground straps on there. I gotta assume they are there for the third brake light/periscope (I took it off) and the engine lid light (took that off too)? I left 'em on because....... I dunno why. Now it's gonna bug me. Thanks alot!

Those clips at the front of the lid are where the wiring for the spoiler-mounted third brake light/periscope was clipped in place. I couldn't stand that periscope and had to remove it. Plus, it seems that people like to mess with that thing. Previous owner had to replace the light once because somebody thought it'd be funny to break it off.

Hope the tail install goes well. Post some pics when you get it completed!

William Miller · 03-19-2004, 07:02 AM

I think we'll make the support out of aluminum. We can take a piece of angle and cut one side to leave just a small ridge. Maybe a little bigger than the steel because it's not as strong. I got speed nuts. They are actually 1/4" but since they are the spring metal type the threads conform just right.

Pari, an idea to mark the position of the lower holes. Put the speed nuts on upside down. Fins some short screw and screw them in from above pointing down. Attach the front of the wing and push down on the back. This will scribe a mark where you wnat to drill the new holes. If you have the front aligned correctly this will be much more accurate and easier than trying to measure.