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Go Speedracer, go!
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 1,951
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Please help me create a tranny rebuild list.
I need to create a list of things I will need when rebuilding my transmission. I am assuming that 1st and 2nd syncros are toast, but the gears are in good shape. Also, I am assuming the shift fork is toast for 1-2. I am assuming 3-5 and reverse are ok, and will not need anything. If 3-5 need attention, I will address that after I open it up. I don't know if I got everything i need in here or not, so please tell me if you think I should add something.
1) Part Number: P-302-301-06 Price: $58.25 Description: 915 80mm Synchro Ring, 1st, 911 (1977-86) 2) Part Number: P-302-301-04 Price: $58.50 Description: 915 80mm Synchro Ring, 1st, 2nd 911 (1972-76), 2nd 911 (1977-86), (sold per each) 3) Part Number: P-302-241-14 Price: $98.50 Description: 915 Synchro Hub, Asymmetrical 1st, 911 (1972-76 with update kit), 911 (1977-86) 4) Part Number: 10-1550-316 Price: $121.75 Description: 915 Synchro Hub (sold per each), Symmetrical 1st Gear 911 (1972-76), 2nd Gear 911 (1972-86) 5) Part Number: H-302-411-02 Price: $158.85 Description: 915 Slider, 1st/2nd, 911 (1978-86) 6) Part Number: P-300-911-01 Price: $37.85 Description: 915 Transmission Gasket Set, 911 (1972-86) 7) Part Number: K-064-020-02 Price: $11.00 Description: 901/915/930 Replacement Magnetic Drain Plug, 17mm Allen Socket Head, 911 (1965-89), 911 Turbo (1976-88), 914 All, Each 8) Part Number: PEL-TOL-P226 Price: $95.00 Description: Snychro Engagement Kit, 911 (1972-86), 1st and 2nd Gears Do I really need the Syncro Engagement Kit if the syncros are going to be replaced anyway? Thanks for any help.
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1981 SC ROW Coupe |
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Join Date: May 2000
Location: Los Alamos, NM, USA
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The "Synchro Engagement Kit" appears to be the tools required to separate the dogteeth (synchro hub) from the gear. If this is the case you will either need them or use the sharp chisel/dremel tool/abrasive cutting wheel technique. I do not see brake bands for the 1st and 2nd gear synchro assemblies nor a new flange nut for the pinion shaft on your list. Jim
Last edited by Jim Sims; 03-30-2004 at 02:34 PM.. |
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Go Speedracer, go!
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 1,951
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Can you point me in the right direction for the brake bands and flange nut? I cannot find them on the tranny section. Thanks!
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1981 SC ROW Coupe |
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Mokena, Illinois USA
Posts: 133
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These are the parts replaced when I rebuilt my trans:
(1986 911) Qty 3 911 302 301 06 synchro 3/5 1 915 302 301 04 synchro 2 1 915 302 301 06 synchro 1 6 911 302 316 08 brake band 3/5 3 911 302 317 01 stop 3/5 3 911 302 315 00 energizer 3/5 1 928 302 318 02 dbl brake band 2 1 928 302 319 08 dbl brake band 1 1 915 302 315 01 energizer 2 1 928 302 322 00 stop 2 1 915 302 315 01 energizer 1 1 928 302 321 00 stop 1 Also in my opinion the syncro tools are needed along with a press. I have the tools if your ever near the south Chicago suburbs. 1 915 302 281 00 Shouldered Nut s/s to 999 034 033 00
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Mark & Trish 1995 993 Cab 1986 911 Last edited by kiwior; 03-30-2004 at 02:48 PM.. |
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Flange nut for pinion shaft: P-302-282-00 (OEM 915-302-282-00) at $7.25 (I don't have my references so have Pelican check the numbers).
Also the factory shop manual recommends replacing the ten 8mm helical lock washers associated with the gear housing. These looked to be common, unplated (they live in oil) helical 8mm steel lockwashers but the OEM part number is 900.142.002.01 (they're quite expensive through the official Porsche parts system at a $1.00 each). Jim |
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Go Speedracer, go!
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Indianapolis
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Ok, here is an updated list from the advice I received on this thread. What is the purpose of the Energizers, and the Stops?? Do I absolutely have to replace them? The total of this list is $890 so I'd like to trim it down if possible.
1 P-302-301-06 1st Syncro ring 1 P-302-301-04 2nd Syncro ring 1 P-302-241-14 Syncro hub - 1st 1 10-1550-316 Syncro hub - 2nd 1 H-302-411-02 Shift fork - 1/2 1 928 302 319 08 Dbl brake band 1 1 928 302 318 02 Dbl brake band 2 6 911 302 316 08 Brake bands 3-5 1 915 302 315 01 energizer 1 1 915 302 315 01 energizer 2 3 911 302 315 00 Energizer 3-5 1 928 302 321 00 Stop 1 1 928 302 322 00 Stop 2 3 911 302 317 01 Stops 3-5 1 PEL-TOL-P226 Syncro removal tool 1 P-300-911-01 Gasket set 1 915 302 281 00 Scholdered nut 1 915-302-282-00 Flange nut/pinion shaft 1 K-064-020-02 Drain plug
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IMO it makes no sense to replace the brake bands, stops and energizer's in the 3-5 synchros if you're not also replacing the synchro rings. I'd say to wait on all the 3-5 stops, energizers and brake bands until you can check the original ones for their condition. I don't know if I'd go to all the trouble of opening a 915 and not replace all the synchro rings and brake bands but they used to be cheaper - synchro rings were like $20 each! Maybe we'll end up going back to the practice of flipping over the synchro rings and using them twice! Are the sliders or operating sleeves now being called shift forks? There is a part called a shift fork and it is what pushes/pulls the slider. Where's the Swepco? Do you have a used clutch disc to make a tool to hold the input shaft? Cheers, Jim
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Go Speedracer, go!
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Indianapolis
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Quote:
Wondered about that slider too. I am getting a pretty bad grind if I pull the shift lever back while driving in 2nd gear. From another thread, I was assuming that it is the shift fork hitting 2nd gear because it is bent from forcing the tranny into 1st.
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1981 SC ROW Coupe |
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![]() The above figure shows 915 1st and 2nd gear synchros assemblies with the retaining ring removed so one can view the, synchro ring, synchro hub, energizer, brake bands and stop. The ring segment with a tab projecting radially outward is the energizer, the smaller block (called an anchor block in the attached figure) partially in the groove of the hub of the synchro hub (dogteeth) is the stop. The brake bands are the narrow ring segments trapped between the energizer and the stops. Jim |
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The number you list (H-302-411-02) is for the slider or operating sleeve not a selector fork or shift fork. The fork may be "toast" from wear or overheating but I doubt it is bent.
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From the shop manual with some additional terms:
"When a gear is shifted while driving, the selector fork guides the sliding sleeve off the synchronizing ring of the engaged gear, through the neutral position, and on to the point of contact between the internal teeth of the sliding sleeve (also called slider or operating sleeve) and the beveled edge of the synchronizing ring (synchro rings) of the next gear. As this contact is made, friction created by the unequal gear speeds drags the synchronizing ring to one side, against the brake band energizer (against the tab projecting radially outward). The floating brake band energizer thus slides against a brake band whose other end rests against the brake band stop (or anchor). Since the brake band stops keeps the brake band from sliding away under the pressure of the band energizer, it is forced outward against the inner race of the synchronizing ring causing it to "grow" within the sliding sleeve. Consequently, there is an instaneous increase in friction between the synchronizing ring and the inner race of the sliding sleeve which further increases the force exerted on the brake band and, in turn, upon the synchronizing ring. As may be seen, the synchronizing effect is thus obtained from the self-energizing thrust exerted by the brake band upon the synchronizing ring. The gear about to be engaged is forced to assume the speed of the sliding sleeve. As long as there is difference in speed between the sliding sleeve and the gear coupled synchronizing ring, the energized brake band prevents a further compression of the synchronizing ring, preventing the engagement of the sliding sleeve with the teeth of the synchro hub (dogteeth)........" Jim |
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Go Speedracer, go!
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Indianapolis
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Thanks Jim. I think I will get the thing apart before I order a shift fork or slider to see which, if either, are damaged. I also need to study some diagrams and learn the names of all these parts. I feel like I'm reading a foreign language sometimes.
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1981 SC ROW Coupe |
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Be aware that the names/terms for the parts change (even in different sections of the factory shop manual) between references and over time. If the 1st or 2nd gear synchro dogteeth are trashed you are going to want to replace the 1/2 slider. Cheers, Jim
Last edited by Jim Sims; 04-05-2004 at 06:30 AM.. |
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Go Speedracer, go!
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Indianapolis
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I am bringing this thread back because my transmission is now in MANY pieces on my work bench. The condition is what I would have expected. The first and second syncros are gone, and the dog teeth on first and second are non-existant. The rest of the tranny looks completely untouched though. To save some money, I am going to flip my syncros on 3-5 and leave the rest as is. Here is my current list, can you please look at it and tell me if I got everything in there I need? A few of the parts seem to be unavailable from Pelican, like the anchor blocks, and brake bands. Does anyone know where these can be obtained?
-915 80mm Synchro Ring, 1st, 911 (1977-86) P-302-301-06 $58.25 -915 80mm Synchro Ring, 2nd 911 (1977-86) P-302-301-04 $63.50 -915 Synchro Hub, Asymmetrical 1st, 911 (1977-86) P-302-241-14 $98.50 -915 Synchro Hub, 2nd Gear 911 (1972-86) 10-1550-316 $127.50 -915 Slider, 1st/2nd, 911 (1978-86) H-302-411-02 $158.85 -915 Transmission Gasket Set, 911 (1972-86) P-300-911-01 $37.85 -Trans Brake Band - 1st gear F-302-319-08 $29.50 -Transmission Shaft Nut P-302-282-00 $7.25 -TRANS.BRAKE BAND - 2nd gear OEM-92830231802 Not available????? -Transmission Anchor Block - 2nd gear P-302-315-01 $15.75 -1st Gear Anchor Block F-302-321-00 $10.00 It amounts to 1st and 2nd syncros, 1st and 2nd syncro hubs (dog teeth), 1st and 2nd anchor blocks, brake bands, energizers, and a 1/2 slider. What about the 1/2 guide sleve (fits inside the 1/2 slider, with three ears)? It looks fine, does that need to be replaced? Also replacing the two scholdered nuts along with a host of gaskets for the engine and tranny, and clutch, T/O bearing...... I appreciate anyone who can go through this list and make sure I have everything so that I can get this thing back together asap. I would like to make as few orders as possible.
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1981 SC ROW Coupe Last edited by SpeedracerIndy; 05-17-2004 at 10:24 AM.. |
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Semper drive!
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CD,
Your list looks awfully familiar! ![]() I can't speak for the engine side of it, but that list seem to be just about everything I ordered. I also inincluded the guide sleeve because mine was trashed, but if yours looks fine, I'd bet you could re-use your current one. Wouldn't hurt to swap it out though, since everything else is gonna be new....and, you're there already. Randy
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84 944 - Alpine White 86 Carrera Targa - Guards Red - My Pelican Gallery - (Gone, but never forgotten ![]() One Marine's View Igitur qui desiderat pacem, praeparet bellum |
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Go Speedracer, go!
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 1,951
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You are probably right. I just see some of those prices, and it adds up so quickly! So far I'm up to $950 with all the tranny and engine parts, and it would be so easy to double that number. I guess when I consider the cost to have all this done at a shop I'm still way ahead.
Do you have yours back in the car yet? Have you driven it yet??? I am anxious to see your results since I have been following your thread from the point where you could not find your oil drain plug!!! I am very impressed with your work after following your thread.
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1981 SC ROW Coupe Last edited by SpeedracerIndy; 05-17-2004 at 11:05 AM.. |
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Semper drive!
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I just picked up a gallon of Swepco 201 today, at lunch and will load the tranny when I get home. (It would be nice if they sold that stuff by the quart, since you only need around 3 to "fill" your case.)
Anyway, once I have it filled, it will be ready to go in. I'm hoping to put it in place one night this week and then finish it by the end of this weekend. Ya know, it's laughable how little I knew about this car before I started working on this project. I've learned so much in the past month, I feel like I've been in school. I guess succesfully shifting through all gears with no problems will be an "A+" for my Final Exam grade! ![]() Another "cool" thing was when people would see how far I had it torn apart. Everyone from co-workers and Neighbors to Pizza and Chinese Food delivery guys. They all seemed so impressed to meet someone that could "perform their own maintenance on a Porsche!" Definitely something to chuckle about! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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84 944 - Alpine White 86 Carrera Targa - Guards Red - My Pelican Gallery - (Gone, but never forgotten ![]() One Marine's View Igitur qui desiderat pacem, praeparet bellum |
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Go Speedracer, go!
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 1,951
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Quote:
I'm glad you mentioned the Swepco, I just added it to my list.
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1981 SC ROW Coupe |
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Semper drive!
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You may wanna add an oil filter, unless you plan to re-use your old one.
Randy
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84 944 - Alpine White 86 Carrera Targa - Guards Red - My Pelican Gallery - (Gone, but never forgotten ![]() One Marine's View Igitur qui desiderat pacem, praeparet bellum |
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