My solution to 3.6 swap throttle cable

[tholyoak]

I know there are several ways to address the throttle cable situation when doing a 3.6 swap and some are more elegant than others.

I thought I would post my solution which may be of interest to those doing the swap.

Basically I used a stock 964 throttle cable which attaches exactly as stock as shown in the photo below.




The modification took place at the transmission bell crank.



First the pivot to which the stock 3.0L actuating rod attaches was removed and the lever was extended and a ball receptacle placed at the end. I also added return spring for the linkage as I liked the pedal feel better, the stock 964 setup I find very light.

The 964 cable sheath was trimmed back to the appropriate length and a ball socket was drilled and tapped for a set screw. The cable length was established and locked in place in the socket end with the set screw.

Finally a cable guide made from aluminum stock was fabbed up to mount to one of the trans side plate bolts and the cable secured with cable clamps from McMaster Carr.

So there you have it. I have also done a similar setup with the 964 cruise control cable that usually will come with the engine you buy. In that case you modify the opposite end (the one at the throttle body) since one end has the ball socket already attached.

Not saying this is the best solution but it looks factory from the engine compartment and important to me is cheap. Also doesn't have the problem of getting full throttle application as some other solutions do.

Todd

[tholyoak]

Gee thought I would get at least one comment.

Todd

[Moses]

That's a nice solution. How much length did you add to the arm?

[tholyoak]

Moses

Approx 2 1/2". I could measure to be sure.

Todd

[gduke]

looks like another project for my covertable. thanks for the post

[turbo6bar]

I have not researched enough about 3.6 transplants, but why is the throttle cable an issue?
jürgen

[Embs]

Originally posted by turbo6bar
I have not researched enough about 3.6 transplants, but why is the throttle cable an issue?
jürgen

Early car / Late Model engine, Many things need some tweaking to make them function properly. As you can imagine there is good tweaking and bad tweaking. Tholyoak is sharing some of the good.

[Kevin Stewart]

Todd did you need a tjrottle stop?, Kevin

[Embs]

Originally posted by Kevin Stewart
Todd did you need a tjrottle stop?, Kevin

Not sure what you mean Kevin, I had a 993 Varioram engine with a Patrick Cable. The throttle stop was on the throttle body assembly of the engine, the spring which was also on this assembly was plenty strong enough for a proper throttle return (WITH the patrick cable) to make contact with the TPS.


The patrick cable went throught the tunnel from pedal to throttle body and completely replaced the former rod.

[k9handler]

I have the same setup as Todd, works great!

[Embs]

Originally posted by Kevin Stewart
Todd did you need a tjrottle stop?, Kevin

You were probably making reference to tholyoak and not me, right? I have confirmed what most already know, that I am an idiot!!!

[tholyoak]

Ok, looks like one too many people with the name Todd in this post.

The Patrick motorsports cable is probably the best solution, but as stated above, I am cheap and wanted to use what I already had. I believe the Patrick cable is just a modified 993 throttle cable.

Kevin, as Embs stated the throttle stop is on the throttle body. To avoid undue stress on the cable at full throttle the linkage is adjusted so that full throttle is obtained when the throttle stop on the pedal contacts the floor (this little extension is often cut off during a 3.6 swap to get enough travel in the linkage before hitting the floor).

Todd

[Joeaksa]

Todd,

Looks nice! Was looking at the Patrick cable but its just too damm expensive!

JoeA

[ischmitz]

A stock 964 cable with a shortened outer mantle and a plastic reducer from Osh as standoff at the tunnel entrance works fine in my car for a year now. The trickiest part was to shorten the outer mantle to exact lenght without cutting the inner cable. I used a triangular file to cut/file through the steel wrapping. The reducer is a plastic piece used for water irigation systems.

Ingo

[Joeaksa]

Ingo,

Could you cut the outer sheath easier with a dremel tool using a cut-off wheel? Was looking at this idea as well.

JoeA

[ischmitz]

Joe,

Actually the I would prefer the file method. First you use a knife to cut and remove the plastic outer mantle. That exposes the steel braids that give the outer cable its rigidity. These steel braids are very solid, once you nick them with the file (cut half into their diameter you can snap them off one by one. You never even have to come close to the inner cable. If you cut too deep with the dremel the entire throttle cable is toast.

My problem was that I was too cautious. I had to trim the length four times kreeping under the car with dirt raining into my eyes....

Ingo

[Joeaksa]

Ingo,

Considering what the cable costs, being "too cautious" is good!

Will try a file when doing mine.

JoeA

[Kevin Stewart]

hate to tell you guys my instant g cable works fine, Kevin