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Hello everyone,
I've been fighting this problem for a few months now and I'm about ready to throw in the towel and have the care towed to someone who know's what they are doing. I've got a '72T, with 71 engine and 901 trans. Problem started several months ago while tooling around the neighborhood. Car suddenly died, no spark, etc. I've taken Warren Hall's advice and Brakleened and wire brushed necessary connections. I've had my Permatune unit bench tested at Zimm's, passed with flying colors. I went ahead and replaced the wiring harness going from CDI to coil and distributor. Tried a new coil. I've got 12V on all three rear fuses and CDI box center "red" wire with ignition turned to on position. When testing spark coming off coil with wire close to ground I get one white spark when turning on ignition switch, but nothing while cranking. The only thing I haven't done is check points. With cap removed I'm not sure how to remove rotor?? I don't want to break anything and spend additional money if necessary. Does the rotor just pull off?? Any help with this issue would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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'72 911T Coupe (9112102748) '16 Toyota Corolla '17 Honda HR-V |
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The rotor should just pull off the distributor shaft. Once off, rotate the engine so that the rubbing block on the points is at the top of one of the cam lobes on the distributor shaft. You can do this by putting the transmission in gear and gently rocking the car or by using a socket/pullhandle on the crankshaft nut. Just be sure to turn the engine in the correct direction of normal rotation. Once you have the points rubbing block centered on the distributor cam lobe, use a feeler gauge to check the point gap. The gap is adjusted by loosening a retaining screw that holds the points to the advance plate. Loosen the screw and use a small flat blade screwdriver to adjust the gap. Once you have the gap set to specifications, tighten the screw. After tightening the screw, check the gap again to make certain that nothing moved while the lock screw was being tightened.
Good Luck! Fred Cook '80 911SC coupe |
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I've got a bosch distributor..... Hayne's says to remove two screws and lift cap off.... Then it gets crazy... spring loaded mechanism, retaining rings, etc.
In addition when I rock the car back and forth in gear I get zero movement from distributor?????? bump
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'72 911T Coupe (9112102748) '16 Toyota Corolla '17 Honda HR-V |
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 12,650
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Re: Bosch Distributor...
Quote:
The points look like the metal device on the right of this picture: On the shaft that the rotor is on, you will see a cam that opens and closes the points. Do you have a book (Haynes or Factory) for your car?
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Harry 1970 VW Sunroof Bus - "The Magic Bus" 1971 Jaguar XKE 2+2 V12 Coupe - {insert name here} 1973.5 911T Targa - "Smokey" 2020 MB E350 4Matic |
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Got Haynes...and Clymer..
Got Haynes...and I can see the points but under the rotor cap which I removed with two screws there are two springloaded "doo-hickeys" that are preventing me from getting down to the points....
I'm obviously an idiot....sorry. I appreciate the help ![]()
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'72 911T Coupe (9112102748) '16 Toyota Corolla '17 Honda HR-V |
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Some good news....
Though I got no distributor movement when rocking back and forth, now that my wife is back home to turn the ignition over, the distributor does rotate while cranking.
Should I just take this thing to the shop?? bump again... ![]()
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'72 911T Coupe (9112102748) '16 Toyota Corolla '17 Honda HR-V |
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If you haven't check the point gap you should have your wife crank the car while you look at the point. The point should be opening and closing as the distibutor turns. If the point doesn't open you won't get a spark.
Last edited by ruf-porsche; 05-03-2004 at 07:49 AM.. |
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