CV Joint/axel replacement

[jdowty3]

Charlie, you have a PM

[rick-l]

Originally posted by Shipibo
Richard,
Do I need to remove the stub axel in order to get the axel out? If I remove the 12 Hex head bolts, will the axel come out?
I want to replace the boots and repack the CV joints. Charlie

I don't remember you saying what car you had. On my 88 the outer CV joint is friction welded to the axel

[Shipibo]

Rick,
I have an 80 SC Targa. Thx, C

[no substitute]

Originally posted by mike f

no sub...I did not have any washers under the bolt heads and I know they have never been removed before this. Also no paper gasket and no concave washer. Maybe this is particular to the 930, since the factory manual doesn't list them.

I believe (not certain) the 930 does have a different axle than the 911. Do you mean the concave washer that slides over the axle and pushes against the cv joint? I have also heard of folks not using the gaskets successfully. They are kind of a pain. Regarding the serrated lock washers, I didn't have any either, and also believe my axles to be original. The problem was that after replacement of the axles, the bolts kept backing off without the washers. I bought some and that has solved the problem. I still check them every so often. The factory must have locktighted the original bolts, as I have heard others say they didn't have the washers either.

[Ray B]

Ship, I recently purchased a SC due for CV work. My local mech said to simply replace both axles with a new Lobros ( the axles were worn due to no grease).My point is... you may consider bolting on complete new axles. Cost for the entire unit is not that much more than "rebuilding" an old one- so I've been told. The procedure for replacing the entire axle seems pretty straitforward-but then again, I havn't done it yet.