What is the cost of a gasket/seal only "rebuild" for engine and tranny?

[H.G.P.]

I am interested in the cost estimate comparisons of the following:

1. Cost of DIY gasket/seal only engine rebuild, including the necessary extras...such as flywheeel stretch bolts etc.,

2. Cost a typical shop would charge for the same above.

3. Cost of a DIY tranny seal only rebuild, including the necessary extras.

4. Cost a typical shop would charge for the same above.


Gasket/resealing only for all the above, and any necessary extras.
This is for a 1969 911 E Coupe.

One further question: How long does a good re-seal usually last?

Thanks you.

[john walker's workshop]

no such thing really. and a total waste of time if there was.

[H.G.P.]

Originally posted by john walker's workshop
no such thing really. and a total waste of time if there was.

Even on an old engine?

[dtw]

An old engine is always going to need more than 'just' a reseal. You really need to get the engine books (Anderson, Dempsey) and read the engine forum a bit. Or do a search on "magnesium case" and read the expenses involved in refreshing a mag case.

[Grady Clay]

HGP,

That 901 transmission is incredibly easy to totally rebuild. If you have it out of the car, never just put seals in it. It is easy to disassemble and inspect. All it takes is a gasket/seal kit. With it apart you can turn syncros, swap sliding sleeves, and inspect everything. If the “simplified” differential hasn’t been upgraded, now is the time to save yourself big $.
You have heard the adage; “An ounce of prevention is worth a ….”

Best,
Grady

[mikebrasket]

Originally posted by john walker's workshop
no such thing really. and a total waste of time if there was.

Because every time you take out the head studs you've got to replace them. Correct?

[john70t]

The reason to do something more than pull the engine for a single seal would be all the metal parts: worn rings/cylinder, valve guides/springs, chain/tensioner etc... basically everything metal that can fail and make the engine go nogo.

A compression/leakdown test will tell you how well the cylinders are sealing and you could mabye get away with headwork and tensioners.

[H.G.P.]

Originally posted by john70t
The reason to do something more than pull the engine for a single seal would be all the metal parts: worn rings/cylinder, valve guides/springs, chain/tensioner etc... basically everything metal that can fail and make the engine go nogo.

A compression/leakdown test will tell you how well the cylinders are sealing and you could mabye get away with headwork and tensioners.

I was under the impression that the seals "dry up" after years.
Well the engine is actually a "go go". Runs terrific. So I guess it's tracking down where the main leaks are coming from. The tranny works great too. I'm trying to avoid "trial and error" for sourcing these leaks.

Next week is the week I see a shop expert, for the first time ever. I hope they can easily source these leaks as well as I can't!

Thanks for the replys.

[ubiquity0]

Many common oil leak points can be fixed without tearing into the motor, or even without removing it from the car. It could be a $2 oil pressure switch gasket that's causing your oil slick.

[aigel]

With all due respect John, I think pulling an engine to fix oil leaks makes a lot of sense, if the engine performs well and has good compression, there is no need to dig into it.

There are many sources for major leaks that come from hard to come by places which are still quite external to the engine:

Oil pressure switch
crank case breather gasket
oil cooler O rings
thermostat o-ring
cam end plate O-rings
distributor o-ring
cam end plate gaskets
rocker arms
valve covers
chain housing covers

Look at the list above. If you want to go through all those seals, you will want to take the sucker out of the car! Also, if it leaked oil like a sieve, you will want to clean it thorroughly, also done best when it is removed!

So, that said, for the list above, you probably look at a couple of hundred bucks tops, for all the gaskets and O-rings you will need. Note that the cam sprockets would have to come out and you'd need an engine stand. Both requires about a $300 investment in special tools. Key is that your engine is in good shape and you keep away from the temptation of freshening the mechanics up. I'd say $500 is a reasonalbe budget. Do the chain tensioners if they aren't updated yet while you are at it.

A shop would charge whatever they charge for removing the engine. On top of that I'd guess you are looking at about 10-15 hours of work (???). So, it is all labor and the shop doing it will be significantly more expensive than you doing it yourself.

No clue about the transmission, but generally it will be the same. All cheap parts but labor will kill you at the shop.

Read Wayne's books, he's got a project that deals with sealing common oil leaks in his 101 book.

Good Luck!

George

[H.G.P.]

Originally posted by aigel
With all due respect John, I think pulling an engine to fix oil leaks makes a lot of sense, if the engine performs well and has good compression, there is no need to dig into it.

There are many sources for major leaks that come from hard to come by places which are still quite external to the engine:

Oil pressure switch
crank case breather gasket
oil cooler O rings
thermostat o-ring
cam end plate O-rings
distributor o-ring
cam end plate gaskets
rocker arms
valve covers
chain housing covers

Look at the list above. If you want to go through all those seals, you will want to take the sucker out of the car! Also, if it leaked oil like a sieve, you will want to clean it thorroughly, also done best when it is removed!

So, that said, for the list above, you probably look at a couple of hundred bucks tops, for all the gaskets and O-rings you will need. Note that the cam sprockets would have to come out and you'd need an engine stand. Both requires about a $300 investment in special tools. Key is that your engine is in good shape and you keep away from the temptation of freshening the mechanics up. I'd say $500 is a reasonalbe budget. Do the chain tensioners if they aren't updated yet while you are at it.

A shop would charge whatever they charge for removing the engine. On top of that I'd guess you are looking at about 10-15 hours of work (???). So, it is all labor and the shop doing it will be significantly more expensive than you doing it yourself.

No clue about the transmission, but generally it will be the same. All cheap parts but labor will kill you at the shop.

Read Wayne's books, he's got a project that deals with sealing common oil leaks in his 101 book.

Good Luck!

George

I think I'm going to have them do the CV boots and brakes, then just only diagnise the leaks. Then after the diagnosis, decide and compare if they can give me an accurate estimate.

I have 101, but after the first time the engine was out could not figure out how to remove the green shroud (E Coupe). It looks like it's riveted on, and I'm afraid to ruin it. The other problem was how to get to the lower oil cooler nuts. It looks like I'll need a monster extension of some kind to get to those, unless the exchanger has to come off. But my main concern is the green shroud.

[Wayne 962]

Originally posted by H.G.P.
I have 101, but after the first time the engine was out could not figure out how to remove the green shroud (E Coupe). It looks like it's riveted on, and I'm afraid to ruin it. The other problem was how to get to the lower oil cooler nuts. It looks like I'll need a monster extension of some kind to get to those, unless the exchanger has to come off. But my main concern is the green shroud.

The shroud is two-piece that is riveted together - it should come off quite easily once you get all the bolts off.

As for the oil cooler nuts, if you don't take off the heat exchangers, then indeed, you will need some extensions to reach the nuts. Get the right tools for the job, and you'll be set...

-Wayne