long hood keeps poppin' open!

[billwagnon]

My hood keeps popping open. Used to be just on big bumps - but in the past 20 minutes it happened three times!

It appears there is a bar that catches the post. I think maybe the bar isn't returning to the correct location. The grease is pretty sticky. The spring hardware is all bright and shiny but I think there is only one spring. Should there be two?

Any advice is appreciated!

[Mukilteo911]

You should consider getting a new latch. After a while they get worn and no longer get a good bite on the pin. I had the same problem and after I changed to a new latch ( the part in the chasis ) it was fine

[ckissick]

I replaced a latch that worked fine, but was missing the "flap" that you press to open the hood. With the new latch (actually, it was used, from Parts Heaven) the hood sprung open all the time. I haven't addressed this yet (maybe I need a brand new latch), but in the meantime, I adjusted the latch so that the hood is not held down so tightly, and now it never springs open. Problem is, the hood looks ajar. At least it stays put for now.

Charlie
Montara, CA
1970 911E

[911pcars]

I had this situation with my rear deck lid. It seemed tight, but over road bumps, it would pop open (though not fully). I think it's the same mechanism in front.

Not sure I can describe the latch action, but if it's not adjusted properly, there isn't enough of the lock pawl exposed to engage the bump in the hood pin. Work the latch mechanism by hand while you observe the pawl through the opening in the lower latch plate. There'll be a position of maximum exposure to catch the hood pin when it's closed.

The hood pin also needs to be far enough downward to engage the latch mechanism fully. If so, you can loosen the hood pin lock nut, then thread the pin downward the correct distance for full engagement.

Hope this helps,
Sherwood

[Series900]

The latch has a feature that if the cable breaks it will release, with this in mind the cable has to be set for max pawl centering, there is a pinhole in the latch that allows a pin to be inserted to hold the pawl, while adjusting the cable, and tightening the screw that firms the cable to pawl, remove the pin, the pawl should be tensioned in center movement. the plunger on the hood can get bent to a side, or worn and not have the grip, loosen the large locknut, the plunger has a slot for a crewdriver , this will set the depth the plunger can set into the latch, adj. repeat as neccesary, sux when you get it too tight and the latch wont release!!!! So adjust it long to start, and start shortening, when you get it so it compreses the hood seal nice, and hand pressure on the hood emblem makes the final click your done. if you adjust it so it needs to slam, you run the risk of it not releasing, easy to unlatch if the gas ank is out, not if its in. then you need to take the bumper off, drill access holes to get to the cable etc, details in the factory manual, like i mentioned stuck latches suck more than bump pop!!! good luck...Replacing with new is always good too

[billwagnon]

Well, I read all the posts, including Sherwood's, pulled the latch apart and was feeling self-congratulatory that I figured it out on my own. Came back and read the posts again, and Sherwood described it perfectly - just needed to see the parts moving for myself!

The release-if-the-cable-breaks is a very cool feature.

Thanks for all the speedy responses. Just went for a test drive on the bumpiest roads I could find, and it's staying closed! I thought this might derail my Funfest trip Sunday...