Best spots to check ride height

[Brent 930]

Don't say the fenders since there is some variance and isn't exact. I used 4 points under the chassis but doing a comparision from one set of points to another gives me different numbers. I need something consistent in order to check the ride height. What have you guys found to be the best spots?

Thanks,

Brent

[RoninLB]

I used the factory ride ride height method to confirm my height to the fenders. Tubs sometimes do twist.

[thabaer]

Here are the documented spec reference points.

front: Wheel center above middle of torsion bar

back: Wheel center below center of cross tube

get on a flat surface, measure the heights to each point and subtract appropriate pairs.

I don't know what year you have, but my 78-81 book 930 values are:
f: 94mm (85 US)+-5mm, max L/R diff of 5mm
r: 12mm (37 US) +-5mm, max L/R diff of 8mm

At front the axle is above the bar and at back the axle is below the tube. If there's no misprint in my spec book, the US settings have alot more rake than the RoW cars.

[Brent 930]

What did you use to measure it?

Thanks

[Scooter]

A lot of people say from the ground to the fender lip, which is wrong, but what about measuring from the wheel center to the fender lip?

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by Scooter84
A lot of people say from the ground to the fender lip, which is wrong,

it's not wrong if you understood my previous reply ?

[Bill Verburg]

Here is the factory method

[Scooter]

Originally posted by RoninLB
it's not wrong if you understood my previous reply ?

I don't understand your previous reply. You said you use the factory ride height method, but did not elaborate on the method. What is the method? I do not believe measuring from the ground to the fender lip is the correct method. It does not take into factors like wheel and tire size.

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by Scooter84
I don't understand your previous reply.

ok..
the factory specs are posted by Bill.. the Workbook doesn't offer that much more info.. but it does have a cool little p-tool, P-301b. It fits into a hollow area of the front sub frame. It'll give you a pin point to measure the front tub from. fwiw I should buy one.

even if you don't have the correct factory tub specs you can compare them to the fender lip numbers.. then you'll have specific numbers to your car. there are logical limits of personalizing the suspension height.. and the tire diameter is later. I think a mean NYC metro suspension would have a lot of rake, probably 2deg- 3deg instead of 1; susp height would be to allow max travel in both directions/ post rake ; and have the biggest tires that would fit without affecting geometry.

I assume you know the fender check ht game ?

[Brent 930]

I think using the torsion bars as reference is OK if the bushings are not worn and therefore could be un equal. I'm just going to go with the point at the front cross bar where the torsion bar is at to level ground on each side. Then use one of the bolts at each torsion bar outer plate in the rear to ground. No variables and easy to measure. I think even using the sway bars could be good points that would be easy to measure. Right now I'm just looking for the height difference between front and rear since the car is lowered a little and therefore won't be to stock spec.

Thanks

[thabaer]

Bill posted images of the pages I quoted. If you think your bushings are worn out bad enough to create more error than the 5mm tolerances, I would be worried less about height and more about when they might fall off on the highway

Lower than euro is good

[Brent 930]

True, it appears the bushings are in tact but worn for sure. For some reason the points I used to measure the front didn't jive with the appearance of the car. So I found a spot just back from the front cross bar where the hex bolt holds the front sway bar bushings. That plate is where I checked the height and seems to jive with the level at the front of the car. The bolts at the rear outer spring plates seems to be OK for the rear. This is just a good estimate and may only work on my car but should be good enough for now (within 3mm of each side). I also loaded the drivers seat with equal weight to myself when I checked and adjusted the front right torsion bar adjustment. That corner was saging and until I could get a process for checking the height I wasn't going to know if I would have to mess with the rear torsion bars. The height and appearance seems to be pretty good all around. A corner balance would be best but I'm going to wait for new bushings. Just need to recheck the alignment all the way around. I think adjustable spring plates would be nice for down the road to change the weight transfer and for corner balance.