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tips in determining which CV joint?
I drove home with what I believe to be a CV joint issue. It was clacking away the whole way home (40 slow miles with hazards on)until I turned onto my street, when it stopped. Now on a short diagnosis trip it didn't do it, and up in the air revving it in all gears it is not doing it. I know this is just a lure to get me to trust it so it can "taunt me a second time".
Is there any tips to figure out which one it might be... assuming it is/was a CV joint? I'd rather not throw $750 at it in new axles without ID-ing the problem specifically.
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Ken 1986 930 2016 R1200RS |
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there's really no way to tell. if one is noisy, service them all. they all went the same distance. cv noise tends to come and go, so the diagnosis is probably correct.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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What is involved in a cv joint service?
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2000 Boxster S (gone) 1972 911s Targa (sold) 1971 911t coupe roller (sold) 1973 911t coupe / 3.2 (sold) Gruppe B #057 |
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take the axles out, remove, disassemble and wash the joints in solvent. inspect all the races for divots and pitting, reassemble the good ones, replace the bad ones, and grease the hell out of them on reassembly with moly high pressure grease. good idea to replace all the boots in the process.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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Thanks John. I'll tear them both down and take a look. I've also noted that the flange coming out of the trans to the axle is leaking at the trans. Is this easily servicable whil e the axles are out? What's involved?
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Ken 1986 930 2016 R1200RS |
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I'm thinking I paid about $250/axle for new ones. Basically unbolted them and bolted the new ones in. With the labor involved, isn't that a better choice then repacking, greasing, installing the boot, etc?
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