Windows will not roll all the way down. Window Seals Sticking

ed bates · 06-16-2004, 07:48 PM

Ok my drive and passenger windows will not go down all the way. I took the door panels off and lubed everything. I noticed the window was getting hung up and the window rubber seals are sticking to the window causing it to only run down 1/4 of the way. Has anyone ran into this??Does the seals need to be replaced? I cleaned them and they still stick. Confused.....

ed bates · 06-17-2004, 05:14 AM

bump

Paulporsche · 06-17-2004, 06:47 AM

The best thing is to replace the rubber runners in which the windows slide. I have noticed this is worse in damp or rainy weather. Until I change mine, I just periodically clean and relube w/ WD40 or dry spray lube. I may try some type of parafin wax next.

Let me know if you come up with something better.

Paul

nostatic · nostatic's Garage

I've used armorall on the seals...works ok for awhile. My driver's side window sticks like that, and as Paul said, it is worse after washing (it doen'st rain in California...the girls only warn you).

I've got new wiper/seals, but I haven't put them in yet. I can't seem to figure out from Bently how they're held in. I suspect I just need to pry up the flat metal trim then pull them out, but I haven't gotten around to doing the experiment.

ed bates · 06-17-2004, 07:26 AM

I'll try the armorall and/or the WD40 thing. They only need a little help, so that may do the trick.

thanks!

Todd Simpson · 06-17-2004, 08:33 AM

Silicone lube will last a lot longer than WD-40, BTDT.

Paulporsche · 06-17-2004, 09:32 AM

I found the WD40 gets rid of the moisture.
I am now trying something called Jig-a-loo dry silicone spray lube. I got it in Toronto at Home Depot. I hope it lasts longer than the WD.

Paul

oneblueyedog · oneblueyedog's Garage

Silicone spray. Recommended and works. You can also use silicone dielectric grease. Spray it in the channels. Or in the grease's case squeeze along the channel and spread it with an acid brush. I do it once a year.

Lee 78SC

dotorg · 06-17-2004, 11:51 AM

Just replace the channel felt. Its an easy change, and the parts are like $40 total.

I fought with my windows until I finally broke down and just changed them.

Bill Douglas · 06-17-2004, 12:21 PM

My windows were similarly a PITA, I replaced the felt, and this helped a bit. Then I greased the metal slidy bit's down inside the door and put some grease on the gears for the winder motor - it great now. It anoyed me when I wanted to have a better look and the window would jam part way down

K. Roman · K. Roman's Garage

I've had similar problems with my passenger side.
It ended up being a piece of rusting metal that is part of the felt window runners inside the door.
The metal somehow started protuding out and was scratching the glass. I solved the problem by cutting it with a wire cutter.

Hald · 06-18-2004, 05:21 AM

I recently solved a similar-sounding problem with my passenger-side window. It would go down maybe 3", then the window would shift and hang up, crooked in the tracks. If I gave some manual assistance by pushing down on the high side, the motor would pull it down. It always went up unassisted.

I was all set to replace the mechanism, but decided to give it one more try. Upon close examination of the mechanism as it jammed, I noticed some unintended movement at a pivot point near the bottom rear [I should have taken pictures]. At first, I suspected a worn bushing. As I felt around the backside of the pivot-point, I realized there was a hex-head on what I thought was a pin or rivet. I put a wrench on it and found it was loose(!). I tightened it and there was joy as the window moved smoothly, up and down.

Just some food for thought...