Where's "Z1" TDC mark on my 3.2?

[dyerkes]

As long as both rockers move you are good. If the valve is adjusted properly inserting the blade should be difficult. Once inserted you should have a slight drag on the blade, but getting it inserted is often difficult when you are first learning how to do it. Just double-check your work until you have done several valve adjustments. By that I mean once you have adjusted all of them, go back and rotate the engine and re-check all of your adjustments a second to ensure that you are confident in the gaps.

[jlex]

If this is your first valve adjust, be aware that just lining up the TDC mark with the case may not really be TDC for the compression stroke... is a 50-50 chance you're on the exhaust stroke. Must realize the engine pulley will rotate twice to make a complete cycle... once is the compression stroke and once is the exhaust stroke. You want to make sure you start your adjusting with #1 cylinder on the compression stroke. The way to make sure is by also looking at where the rotor under the distributor cap is pointing. Should be pointing to the mark for the #1 plug wire. So.... as long as your TDC mark is lined up with the seam of the case AND the rotor under the dist cap is pointing to the #1 plug wire, you should be okay. You'll also feel looseness in both rockers of that cylinder.
You won't believe how inaccessible those valves are. My first time was very difficult but I succeeded only because I went thru it all again before replacing the valve covers to make sure it was all measuring okay. Give yourself plenty of time; drain the oil and remove the valve covers the evening before so you can get a fresh start.
The Kirk valve adjustment tool is the only thing I'll use now. Good luck...

[nene]

NO need to drain the oil for valve adjustment.

[Canada Kev]

Also probably not a bad idea to follow the plug wire your distributor is pointing to and make sure it's going to the correct cylinder. As mentioned above, you appear to be at Z1, but might be 180 degrees off, especially if theres no play on one of the rocker arms. During a complete adjustment on all six cylinders, you will turn the crank around twice.

When I did my first VA, I was pulling my hair out because I couldn't get the feeler under the elephant foot. As it was likely that I would have to adjust all of them, I loosened the adjuster enough so that I could get the tool in there and then tightened it to get the proper drag and wound up the nut. Now with a few adjustments practice under my belt, I can often get the feeler in without loosening.

And as said above, be patient and take your time. My first took a whole day (including some other maintenance like plugs, belt and fuel filter). Now, it's a three hour relaxing job with an open beer nearby.

[Canada Kev]

Originally Posted by nene

NO need to drain the oil for valve adjustment.

True. But I typically change oil at the same time so it's kind of a "joint exercise" item.

After an adjustment where I had one cylinder making a lot of valve noise, I just ran the car up on a ramp so the offending side was in the air to allow access, I removed the covers on that side with oil still in car. After leaving the car to cool, I checked the rockers to find the excessively wiggly one right away. If I had taken the time to check them all after adjusting, I would have found it before closing it up. And I think I got even less oil dripping on me that way, even!