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torque wrench recomendations
I know some of you might think I am joking but I seriously contemplate to complete my tool set with some torque wrenches. Based on my last engine rebuild I have come to accept that those puppies might come in handy in the future.....
What ranges would you recomend to get? And what brand? Is Snap-On the way to go. Maybe someone even has some model numbers. I seems I need at least two different wrenches to cover most of the torque range you come across when working on the P-car, right? What is the deal with all the new Snap-On wrenches on Ebay selling significantly under list price, any caveats to watch out for here? Cheers, Ingo
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1974 Targa 3.6, 2001 C4 (sold), 2019 GT3RS, 2000 ML430 I repair/rebuild Bosch CDI Boxes and Porsche Motronic DMEs Porsche "Hammer" or Porsche PST2, PIWIS III - I can help!! How about a NoBadDays DualChip for 964 or '95 993 |
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if i was to get a new torque wrench, i would look into that digital meter sears sells. it has an attachment that connects to your everyday ratchets, and a wire runs from that to a meter you stick to whatever with a magnet. it really frees up some room. it would even make torquing down the sparkplugs a reality. i think it has full range from the light stuff on up to gorilla levels. i will try to find a link.
cliff
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here::
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_SessionID=@@@@1831373878.1076984248@ @@@&BV_EngineID=ccegadckjlmheigcehgcemgdffmdflh.0&vertical=TOOL&pid=00944598000&bidsite=CRAFT funny, at work we have a snap on torque wrench that is six feet long! we use it for checking torques on bridges.
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poof! gone Last edited by vash; 02-16-2004 at 05:22 PM.. |
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Thanks for the link. And make sure that 6 foot gorilla is calibrated so that I can take the Golden Gate for a scenic drive when I am up in SanFran next week. I would hate to drop into the ocean because of a bad torque wrench......
![]() Cheers, Ingo
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1974 Targa 3.6, 2001 C4 (sold), 2019 GT3RS, 2000 ML430 I repair/rebuild Bosch CDI Boxes and Porsche Motronic DMEs Porsche "Hammer" or Porsche PST2, PIWIS III - I can help!! How about a NoBadDays DualChip for 964 or '95 993 |
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that is a good option! actually I'm gonna buy one of thoes
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welcome to the bay area when you get here!
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This guys has second thoughts about the sears tool. Hm, I wonder if I should stick to the old-fashioned style... http://www.webbikeworld.com/r2/torque/torque.htm
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1974 Targa 3.6, 2001 C4 (sold), 2019 GT3RS, 2000 ML430 I repair/rebuild Bosch CDI Boxes and Porsche Motronic DMEs Porsche "Hammer" or Porsche PST2, PIWIS III - I can help!! How about a NoBadDays DualChip for 964 or '95 993 |
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on a personal level,
I really want to know, at every tune-up, if my head stud nuts need the slightest twist from where it was after the rebuild+500mi spec. so the mid range, flex head, Snap-On clicker feels real nice in my hands chasing the stud nuts/ whatever.
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Interesting! But I can't find anything on free re-calibrating like other conventional torque wrenches. Hmm?
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Quote:
cliff
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Quote:
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1974 Targa 3.6, 2001 C4 (sold), 2019 GT3RS, 2000 ML430 I repair/rebuild Bosch CDI Boxes and Porsche Motronic DMEs Porsche "Hammer" or Porsche PST2, PIWIS III - I can help!! How about a NoBadDays DualChip for 964 or '95 993 |
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Look for an SK or KD half inch drive for anything over 30 lbs. Made in USA, and able to recalibrate when needed.
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Re: torque wrench recomendations
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search on my name and torque wrench to pull up some threads.
This is one of the few things that Griots Garage sells that is worthwhile. If you get a click type, regular calibration is essential. And, remember -- they have to be used correctly -- and aren't all that accurate even then. |
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i want one of those...
Join Date: Jan 2000
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I know which one NOT to buy. I had a Husky (Home Depot) 3/8" clicker, and in less than a year, the guts unscrewed from each other, and I was ***** outta luck. I hardly used it, too.
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I bought a full set of Sears 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 drive beam types 30 yrs ago. They are the ones I still use today. In the intervening years I have purchased several clicker types, none of which have been satisfactory over the long haul.
That said the Snap-Ons that are used by the local shop are sweet and I would like to buy one, just haven't been able to justify it yet.
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Bill Verburg '76 Carrera 3.6RS(nee C3/hotrod), '95 993RS/CS(clone) | Pelican Home |Rennlist Wheels |Rennlist Brakes | |
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Objective, find a flex head click type T-Wrench in Nm only 3/8 & 1/2" drive and lifetime warrantee...Nobody makes them.
After some research on T-Wrenches, this is what I have learned. Flex head is nice since it helps to eliminate the use of extensions (extensions reduce the amount of torque to the nut or bolt). Precession instruments used to make T-Wrenches for snap on. Very nice, and PI still makes T-Wrenches. After 40+ years, Snap-on bought a T-wrench company (CGI or something) and said good bye to PI. Anyway, Snap on sells an electronic flex head T-wrench mfr by CGI for about $300+. It is very nice, and gives a digital read out and other nice features. Though nice, not sure of it in the long run and recalibration cost. PI makes the click type flex head in Ft-lbs with a Nm scale on it, but not just Nm. PI mfrs split beam click type in Nm with flex head. From what I have been told by our snap-on guy, when CGI had trouble mfr the split beam click type, snap-on tried to go back to PI. PI said no (don't blame them). Matco makes a nice flex head click type in 3/8 and 1/2" drive. However, it reads in Ft-LBS and Nm. The click type from PI have some of the best specs and the longest # click cycles. Griots catalog sells a nice T-Wrench, but not flex head, their calibration service (free if bought from them) sounds good With the options available, for a flex head in Nm with the best reliability I would go with split beam click type mfr from PI (http://www.torqwrench.com) about $200 each IMHO, used click type T-Wrenches should be sent of for recal before they are used.
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Thanks for the info. on Precision Instruments Jim. Nice products.
According to PI, the most accurate type is the dial wrench and it also is not dependent upon where you hold the wrench (how does that work? Cool!). If i'm going to spend $200 on a nice torque wrench, i'd be willing to throw in the extra $40 for a dial wrench over a micrometer or split beam type. I like how the dial types work, in that you don't have to crank up the torque setting and then remember to zero the wrench when you're done. Just put the pointer to whatever torque spec you want and then watch the other pointer as you twist the wrench. One drawback is having to watch the pointer as you turn the wrench. Sometimes visibility is tough in tight places and an audible click is more convenient. I have an old Snap-On dial wrench for 0-300 in-lbs. I really like it. It's ideal for snugging the valve covers. The dial wrench is cool to watch in this instance because you can see the torque rise as you overcome the friction resistance of the threads and nylock insert and then the value decreases a bit as the nut starts to turn.
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Click types are user-friendly but need recalibration....cost more too.
Beam type are not user friendly ( no ratchet)...are cheap...but don't lose calibration. I would buy a click type and also a $20-$30 beam type..both to use and to "check" the click type. ---Wil Ferch
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Wil Ferch 85 Carrera ( gone, but not forgotten ) |
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I have a 1/2" 50-250 lb. Snap-On/Precision Instruments, which I have been using for 2 years and love. I paid $230 with my friends mechanics discount.
I just purchased a Crafstman digi-torq 3/8" 5-85 lb. for $90 with a couple gift cards I recieved for my birthday. I haven't used it yet, but will post if it goes Tango Uniform on me. |
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