Help! - SC Removal of Pedal Cluster Questions

hgray · 07-26-2004, 06:46 PM

My '81SC Targa has an annoying click in the pedal cluster, so todays project is to fix it. I am part way through removal of the cluster and have two problems (no laughing now....)

I have read 101 Projects, the tech section and through the archives.... but no answers to my questions.

The first is that I cannot seem to figure out where the clutch cable and associated clevis pin are..... I can see the cluster clutch spring, but can't see where it connects to. Could someone describe the location of the clevis pin so I can disconnect it??

Secondly, there is what appears to be a stablizing bar that comes down from near the brake master cylinder (up in the trunk) and attaches to the middle left side of the cluster. It is about 3/4" wide and 1/8 thick. I am having a heck of a time turning the bolt.... anyone know what size it is and how to hold the other end from turning?

Many thanks.

hgray · 07-26-2004, 09:27 PM

Thank you, Noah.

grahamkissack · 07-26-2004, 09:43 PM

I just finished rebuilding mine with our host's bronze bushings and replaced the clutch cable while I was at it.

Step 1. Rather than fighting with removing the clevis pin which often seizes, I rotated (unthreaded) the clutch cable off the clevis thereby leaving the clevis and pin on the pedal cluster. (you'll have to loosen the lock nut.

Step 2. The support bar you mention runs up to the master cylinder housing. First let the clutch pedal drop forward and remove its spring. Next the nasty support strut...Loosen it up at the MC first then slowly work it off the cluster. Its an 8mm hex that you can remove with a hex key. You'll have to depress the clutch lever just slightly to get at it.

Step 3. Remove the brake rod that actuates the MC.

Step 4. Remove the nuts holding on the cluster on the floor and under the pan near the steering rack.

Step 5 . the rebuild is easy.....

the nasty part is getting the strut brace back on...it took me 1 hour to rethread that 8mm screw

hgray · 07-26-2004, 10:14 PM

Graham

Thank you. In step 2, I was wondering if that was a hex nut or not..... I have it soaking in LiquidWrench right now.

I have already done step 3

I have done the first part of Step 4. "Remove the nuts holding on the cluster on the floor" ... but not yet the second part - "under the pan near the steering rack" Do I have to get under the car to do this?

khyden · 07-27-2004, 12:33 AM

Yes, two bolts close to the anti-roll bar. Did mine with new bushings.

Kris

smcdermaid · 07-27-2004, 03:59 AM

Great advice above, having just completed this repair myself, I would add that be sure you are only trying to remove the 8mm hex side of the support strut. The black nut on the passenger side of the brace is welded to the cluster. You can try to remove it, but it won't budge, ask me how I know...

Also, the two nuts attached under the tub near the left front wheel have a large washer, spring or serated washer and the nut. The large washer sometimes stays attached to the body when the nut is removed. Ensure on reassembly that each stud has the correct number of pieces!

911Brian · 911Brian's Garage

I did this not too long ago. Somewhere I read that it is easier to unbolt the support bar at the MC. I was working and working on that hex bolt for a while before I read that. It was easier for me. It might be a good idea to scribe a mark or something to keep the same angle on the bar. Makes it a little easier to reinstall into the MC. I did not do that but everything went back together rather easily.

Good Luck!

Noel · 07-27-2004, 04:50 AM

Good advice so far, but I will give some contrary advise that I found worked better.
First, do not remove the spring from within the car!!! After disconnecting the clutch cable from the transmission (Under the car), the clutch pedal can be pushed forward and you will be able to see how the cable attaches to the pedal cluster.
Second, It is easier if you just disconnect the brake support rod at the brake booster side from within the trunk (John Walker recommended this approach). The cluster should come right out after you loosen all of the bolts that secure it to the car and disconnect the throttle linkage. John Walker recommends not lossening the rod connection at the pedal cluster side at all, but I found that loosening slightly actually helped me to reinstalled the brake booster side of the rod.

Another tip to removing the clutch pedal spring is, after the pedal cluster is out of the car, extend the clutch pedal to stretch out the spring, then shim out the spring by placing a spacer of some sort (I used quarters wrapped in duct tape). Once you placed as many shims in the spring as you can, the spring should come right off when you move the clutch pedal around. The real benefit to this procedure is how easy the installation is.

BTW, my clutch was also clicking and I found that my clevis pin had been chewing into the arm on the end of the clutch pedal cross-shaft. In fact, it had almost broken through. I thought about taking it to a shop to have the hole welded up and redrilled, but I discovered that Porsche still sells the entire shaft for about $38-40. So I ended up just buying another one.

Have fun.

Noel

hgray · 07-27-2004, 06:56 AM

Thank you for all your replies.

What is the easiest way to disconnect the clutch cable.... is it removing the clevis pin in the tunnel from inside the car?

911Brian · 911Brian's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by hgray
Thank you for all your replies.

What is the easiest way to disconnect the clutch cable.... is it removing the clevis pin in the tunnel from inside the car?

I actually just pried it off of the cable while it was in the car. Not much room to work with. Kinda have to do it by feel. Be careful, those pins are known to break.

When I installed it, I did not tighten all of the bolts that hold the pedal cluster in, especially the ones in the front of the cluster. This allowed a little extra play so I could get the cable and clevis pin back together then I tightened everything up. Not the easiest job but doable.

Noel · 07-27-2004, 07:27 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by hgray
What is the easiest way to disconnect the clutch cable.... is it removing the clevis pin in the tunnel from inside the car?

After you disconnect the tranny end of the cable do as instructed above. However, in my case with the pin eating into the clutch pedal cross shaft lever, the pin would not slide out as it had a large groove in it from wear. As such, I had to use a Dremel ttol to cut it out.

Noel

grahamkissack · 07-27-2004, 10:45 AM

Rather than fighting to get the pin out, disconnect the cable at the clutch, back off the lock nut at the clevis, and unthread the clutch cable down at the tranny. Then you'll find you have disconnected the cable from the clevis without removing the pin. Remove the clevis pin once the cluster is on your workbench.

As others have said, my pin was also eating into the actuating level from the clutch so it wouldn't have slid out anyway. Thats where the new bronze bushing are miles ahead.

Graham

smcdermaid · 07-27-2004, 11:01 AM

Another stray thought on this subject. Make a note or diagram of the relationship between the accelerator cable and the clutch cable before removal of the cluster. Also note the position of the cruise control switch if so equipped. Once the cluster is back in the car, it is very difficult to manuever the cables etc. Line them up right before reinstall. Good luck