Carbon Container Deletion?

[Schrup]

I'm going through & trying to get rid of as much emissions crap (no more smog tests) as I can while I have my motor out & figured I'd asked along the way what & how. Can I lose the Activated Carbon Container? If so what do I do with the line that ties into my air box? Can I make a simpler line that loops around & eliminates the tee & ties together the two lines in the pic?


Does anyone know what can be deleted from my CIS to save weight & clean up the engine compartment?

[widebody911]

Did you already ditch the EGR setup, if you had it?

[Schrup]

Thom, my car is a 80SC, so I don't have a ERG valve. I'm looking at the Bentley trying to figure out what I can lose. My first thought is if I lose the carbon canister, I can also ditch the expansion tank & just plumb my fuel tank inlet with an old style vent. Is this the expansion tank?

Second, I also have SSIs & no O2 sensor, do I need a frequency valve? Is this it?

[widebody911]

no; the expansion tank is in the FL fender, behind the light.

[Ove]

Originally posted by Schrup
Does anyone know what can be deleted from my CIS to save weight & clean up the engine compartment?

This will save a lot of weight

[jpnovak]

Go to the tbitz EFI system. It gets rid of a lot of that CIS stuff. You will be amazed how heavy that system is.

[Ove]

Was 428g, now 302g

[cstreit]

Ove, you're sick man... Just sick...

[juanbenae]

nice scale, for determining postage rate?

[Schrup]

Ove, did you use a drill press? What else on your car have you put holes in?

[djmcmath]

Schrup, you're losing it. But if you're going to slide down that particular slope, don't forget to drill out the gears in your tranny, too, since you have it apart.

Dan

[Paulporsche]

Don't forget to crossdrill the tires. This releases excess air.

[djmcmath]

Cross-drilled brake lines are also an excellent complement to cross-drilled rotors.

[Ove]

Schrup,

All the drilling has been done with hand tools, no drill press.

Drilled parts so far:
Engine mount bar
Engine console
Engine lid hinges
Fuel filter holder
Doorlocks
Custom aluminium pedal (added some weight compared to the stock pedal, but it looks better)

Not done yet:
Handbrake
Coil mount
Fan strap
Front trunk hinges
Engine lid lock

I have decided only to drill bolt on parts, no drilling in the body metal
I will try to post all the before/after weights with better pictures at a later date.

Of course this takes time, but I'd rather spend time lightening my Porsche than watching TV And it's fun too.
Now I'm putting my engine back together, so no more drilling for a while.

[RSBob]

Quite the Swiss cheese festival. Too bad I am out of ham.

The answer to the original question is - just pull it. I deleted it from mine. Just cap off or pull the lines to/from the cannister/motor. The ones on the motor will require caps. Also disconnect the line which passes through the R fenderwall to the expansion chamber from the expansion chamber. The negative is that from time to time you get the faint smell of gas.

[Schrup]

Thanks Rick! Bob, dude you got it bad!!! Your right up there with Eric McKenna. By next spring I hope to be around 2320lb. That would be 100 less than I was last spring when I had it corner balanced. Looks like I need to buy a nice set of hole saws.

[Gunter]

Paul: Leave the white plastic small canister in the fuel filler hose alone, it is needed when you gas up. Drill a small hole in the windshield washer tank bottom, drain the 2 Gallons of fluid out. Put a SS sheetmetal screw in and fill with 1-2 quarts. I removed the carbon canister and plugged the lines. Yes, it is the frequency valve and you need it. Go underneath the passenger seat and carefully inspect the brain and relay for rust. Remove the relay and connections and lube the connectors with dielectric grease. Carry fewer tools, narrow it down to a 3/8 drive socket set and a set of box/open end up to 19mm. Filling the tires with acetylene instead of air will make the car lighter. I am planning to leave tomorrow, Friday early, coming from Spokane to Issaquah for this pre-1000 km dinner. I don't know where but RDANE does. Take time out?

[Schrup]

Thanks Gunter, I'm starting a 7 day graveyard shift tonight, so I won't be able to make it. I'm going to clean & grease all my electrical fittings like you suggested in Canada. I'm removing the whole windshield washer system & going to find a 944 rear wiper motor to install. Thanks for the heads up on the white canister. Would nitrogen work as well as acetylene? Have fun this weekend!!!

[Schrup]

In my quest to delete crap from my CIS, I am wondering if I can delete the entire line that the container was tied into. I'm hoping to plug the holes in both my throttle body & air box. I suspect I was getting a nasty vacuum leak from this line especially where the fitting went into the throttle body.

I hope to be able to just put a plug in this hole.

I think I was getting some leakage where all this cluster came together, hope I can get rid of the whole ugly mess.

Does anyone know if I can delete all this & plug the holes?
Or perhaps I can order one of these hoses to tie them together.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/images/fuel_injection/new_images/fi_fuelsystem_1-6b35.jpg

[Gunter]

Careful now. The lower branch of the Y is your vacuum for the brake-SERVO booster on your master cylinder. These hoses don't weigh anything, just clean them up and re-connect with good clamps. I suspect that the connections before and after the throttle plate have to do with ballancing vacuum??? I found vacuum leaks mainly in the hoses, especially the big breather from crankcase to oil filler pipe. I put clamps on both ends. Another vacuum leak was in the gaket where the intake runner mounts to the engine case. It has only 2 bolts to connect there and Porsche increased that to 3 bolts with the Carreras, I believe. I also put new rubber bellows on the intake runners. Find out if a special glue is needed to fit the nipple back into the throttle body. Cheers.