Ayup. That's the same one I use. Little 25mm cube, black in color. They come in all kinds of variations, too. Normally open, changeover, holdover, dual contact, etc.

So, can one pick one of these up at places like pep boys? Wire one of these before the power gets to the head lights. One for both the high beam and another for the low? Thanks, jeff

Pep Boys, unlikely, all the relays I've seen at places like that are Taiwanese or Chinese dreck. No thanks, not at the speeds I drive at night.

I got my Bosch relays and related supplies, and the info on how to do 'em up right, from Stern.

I bought (before reading this thread) a set of Sylvania Silverstar 9003 ST type... -will "see" how they rate compared to original 100/80W H4's
that came with the Targa (?)

Jascha

Dan Stern is a no bs home run imo.

I have never researched converting to HID on the 911 but I am sure it can be done. After I tried every high wattage bulb out there, I converted my K1200LT to an "off road" HID high beam and now when you switch to high, it lights up the whole county! Takes a wee bit of modification to install, but uses only 35 watts! If I drove my car a lot at night, I would go the HID route.

Uh...no. Just because you can make it fit doesn't mean you can make it work, look Here

Hey Jim..
The diagram is a factory SC diag and is mostly the same as your '73. Fuse box fuse location may vary.

fwiw.. if your dimmer sw gives you a problem it's probably the plastic that holds the contacts in place got overheated and the detent fails. A temp fix is to tweak the contacts w/a needle nose pliers till you get relays. I wouldn't install a new dimmer without relays.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1095610471.jpg

Hi Guys:
'Just came on this thread; would the board consider it ok to use H1's with 55/100 W bulbs with relays? One catch: relays were installed (12g wire), but I left the stock wire gauge (1.5 mm) from the relays to the lights.
TIA
J.P.

That's a half-baked relay install. FInish the job with 12g clear out to the lamps. Then you can use whatever wattage you want.

Chaane:
I know when I was doing the mod., that ultimately 12g should go all the way. I couldn't figure out how to run the wires through the chassis grommets and then to the buckets. There doesn't seem to be enough room for both sets of wire.
Regards,
J.P.

JPAHemi: Y'got me there. It's been so long since I put in the relays on this car that I honestly don't recall how I maneuvered around the chassis grommet bottleneck. H'mmm. Let me think back and see if I can remember, "watch this space".

Noah: My ideal setup (others may disagree) is to leave as much of the factory wiring as possible intact and untouched, use the existing headlamp wires to trip the relays on and off, and make sure the whole headlight power circuit is 10ga. When I got my (Stern) relay kit it did include new 3-slot sockets for the H4s with spring-loaded clamps that grabbed onto the 10ga wire.

It isn't half-baked. The stock wires will be fine. The important thing is to make sure all the conncetions - incl. gnd. - are clean and not corroded.
You can calculate the resistivity per foot or get it from a table for both wires, then multiply by the length of the run. You will see that the difference is nil.

Yeah, they're a self-contained socket that already has phosphor bronze(? I think) terminals moulded into the bakelite(? I think) body. You push the release lever, insert the wire and let go of the release lever. Sorta easier to understand once you've got it in hand.

Resistivity, schmesistivity. ;) Seriously, measure the voltage loss across both legs of the circuit with the headlamps on and you'll quickly and graphically see that your "difference is nil" theory doesn't hold up where the rubber meets the road (er...where the...uh...electrons meet the, um, H4 bulbs?)

It's always useful to know a little something about what you are talking about....

You are measuring the connection reistance as well. Review my earlier reply re cleaning that up. If anyone wants to change the wires, fine. IT won't kill you, and you may get more flexible insulation out of the deal than the older ones. But you won't be getting lower resistance, except as a collateral effect from making a new junction.

Randy, here's a Kleenex, go blow your nose; you sound a little snotty. I have no interest in a pissing contest with you.

When you run high wattage bulbs, and you leave the thin stock wires in place, voltage loss across the circuit increases. It just plain does. That's plain old first-semester basic principles of electricity. Less voltage to the bulbs = less light from the bulbs. It's really just that easy.

Prove it to yourself with a voltmeter. C'mon, everyone's doing it, it'll make ya feel good. Whaddya, afraid? ;)

(Memo for any humor-impaired persons reading this: That's a joke. A bit of humor to lighten things up. I am not actually suggesting that Randy is afraid to use a voltmeter on his car. The Kleenex offer was genuine, though.)

Noah:
Daniel Stern sells a great HD bulb connector.
Regards,
J.P.

"Less voltage to the bulbs = less light from the bulbs. It's really just that easy...."

Yes and No (would say this Professor)

Power = Current (I) x Voltage (Vb, at z-bulb)

but since the effective resistance in a high intensity light-bulb may in fact be lower the resulting current (I) will increase (otherwise why blow the fuse) to the point that it can (and will) melt z-wire and possibly start z-fire while giving off the delights of more light on the subject...

Cheers,

Jascha (Junior Member)

Chnaane - It isn't worth my time to argue with you. If I want to argue I can do that a scientific meeting.