This was my routine based on using 130/100w. If your using 55 lows you can get away with one relay imo. If your running 80/55w you should run new 12ga to at least the highs with a good high heat bulb socket. I have no idea why anyone would put in all the time for a 1/2..

Anyway.. The bs gas tank expansion plastic chamber and windshield washer bottle gets removed from under the left fender. The trunk left headlight gromet gets pushed free from the tub. The headlight bucket wire harness gets the same act. I removed the complete stock wires from the fuse box to the headlight bulb harness and saved the complete package. I used AWG 12ga & 10ga marine wires instead of auto store wires.
Marine wires are slightly oversize compared to auto for the same ga, and each wire strand is tinned. Sliping the wires thru the grommets was made easier with axle grease. I guess KY will do in a pinch...

I used a harness cover that has the slit and is corregrated, and
used 3M marine elec tape to wrap it.

I used vapor proof circuit breakers
instead of in-line fuses. If you use in-line fuses to the relays get the marine fuse holder for another $2. I soldered all connections to wire terminals with Radio Shack silver solder. I used dielectric on all connections.

what else ?

I use the Bosch units Dan sells. A threaded lock on soldered bare wire is a great connection imo.

as far as the wire size debate. 100 w draws over 8amps, 130w draws over 10amps. If you have any unanswered thoughts on the wire size necessary for this constant load just look at your fuel pump stock wire feed. A stock Bosch fuel pump draws about 7 or 8 amps Brand new. A worn pump motor can be expected to draw more. Wire resistance builds up over time.. especially if you undersize size it. Recommended bilge pump wiring is an extreme example.

because our cars are low to the ground the big watt lows are doable.. it's been confirmed not just by me as anyone reading this whole thread can attest to.

I can confirm this.

i third it :D

Ronin:
You make it sound so easy, after reading your directions, it's like I did the job with my pants on. Damn. I thought it was more complicated than that. Reading your post, I visualized the whole process. Well back to the trunk, this time with my pants off!
Thanks,
J.P.

Noah:
DAN DANIEL STERN LIGHTING
PRESIDENT
DANIEL STERN LIGHTING

Work: 416 766 2327

Hey Noah..
those new sockets is a smart move imo.

what lens are you running.. Is it the DOT with the lens tits ?

Noah:
Are you running stock wires to the headlights?
J.P.

Noah:
I get conflicting views regarding this matter. Presently the car has the updated relay set up with H4's with55/100w bulbs. I've got a set of yellow H1's with the same bulb set, waiting to go on. I think with this wattage , the stock wires will be sufficient; others disagree.
Regards,
J.P.
Ps. I ran 12g from the battery to the fuse panel and then to the relays, at that point, the wires go into the input of the panel and exit to the stock wires.

Noah:
I get conflicting views regarding this matter. Presently the car has the updated relay set up with H4's with55/100w bulbs. I've got a set of yellow H1's with the same bulb set, waiting to go on. I think with this wattage , the stock wires will be sufficient; others disagree.
Regards,
J.P.
Ps. I ran 12g from the battery to the fuse panel and then to the relays, at that point, the wires go into the input of the panel and exit to the stock wires.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1095734760.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1095735101.jpg

So did any body after reading this get ahold of markus sucro?? I tried emailing and have no luck. Any help would be great. I really just would like to buy the set up!

Ben

I put the Euro H4`s on mine, with 80W/100W bulbs. Replaced all the stock wiring. Ill find the disk the pics are on, and post those tonight.

Noah:
How are the wires leading to the connector? It seems that the gound connection has poor contact. I'd be worried if the wire insulators were melted as well.
J.P.

Noah, not to say "told ya so" but in the other thread, well, I did. FWIW, I'm running 10 to the relays, 12 from to the lights, hi temp connectors. Yes, its a pain to run the 12, but worth it in the long run. I would agree that the stock wiring might be ok, but why take the chance, given that its 25 yrs old or so?

Is there a quality bulb upgrade from the typical 55/65 .....that bridges the gap to the 80/100's ( say..is there a quality 80/80 or 75/75...for instance).

--Wil

After I posted the 130/100w bulb life so far the low Narva went kaput. So in the spirit of Headlight Utopia I took a pic.

- Dan's Bosch high watt bulb socket
- 10ga AWG yellow bent & flattened then silver soldered
- 12ga AWG white low
- 10ga AWG black ground
- spring fastened, wire inserted by pushing on shown tab
- white paint dab for low white wire
- orange paint dab for high wire[no yellow paint]
- harness slit open protector
- 130/100w Narva bulb life about 14k mi of night driving for bulb #1
- At 2k idle
Voltage drop for 130w is .12v
Voltage drop for 100w is .11v
Measured with Fluke Auto Meter

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1096001322.jpg