Replacing CV joint

a-dougk1 · 09-26-2004, 06:17 PM

Well, I've just come back from a 4000 mile trip to Kansas in my '79 930. Now the rear end is making a horrific metal-on-metal noise. After jacking up the car and removing the driver's side wheel, it looks like the outer CV joint boot has disintigrated at some time during the trip.

So, what parts in the CV joint will need to be replaced? The boot and the joint obviously, along with the CV removal tool and grease. But what other parts do I need to order to get this job done right?

I noticed that the 101 projects book says I can replace the entire axle with both CV joints, but that's a lot more expensive on a '79 930 than it is on most 911s.

Anyway, this is my first post here. I have been reading this forum and ordering parts from Pelican for about 6 months - that was when I bought my first Porshe. I've been a Volkswagon person for many years, and still have a '67 Deluxe Bus that I've done a lot of work on. I just thought I would see how I liked its rich cousin

Doug

no substitute · 09-26-2004, 07:00 PM

Search this and you'll find extensive info by many members--most valuable. The quick answer is that replacing the entire shaft is neater and easier than doing just the joint. You might get away with just adding grease and a new boot. What you do depends somewhat on the mileage on the current pair of axles. Again, search to see the multitude of possibilites and opinions about which is best.

jpnovak · 09-26-2004, 07:38 PM

First t hing you have to do is remove the entire half shaft. This requires removal of the six bolts on the hub and tranny side. It will just slide out. You may have to bump it with a rubber mallet to free the seals.

YOu can remove the joint from the half shaft by removing the Circlip from the end. The joint will the slide of the splines of the shaft. The boots will be attached to a flange that is pressed on. press off the flange and remove the boot. Then mark the inner and outer sections of the joint with a scribe mark. This is to align the joint upon reassembly. The joint will then push apart and you will have 6 balls fall out. Carefully catch these in a clean towel. You don't want any scratches or grit in there. Thouroughly clean all parts and then inspect for wear.

If the joints look good with no pitting you can reassemble with clean grease and reinstall. The metal may appear polished and that is fine. install the new boot on the flange and slide onto half shaft. Then install newly cleaned joint on shaft. Press on flange and boot. YOu are nearly done.

I would strongly suggest pulling both sides and completely replacing all 4 boots. The others are probably not far from splitting.

you will need 4 boots, 4 seals and some clean grease. And don't forget several rolls of papertowels to clean up grease. Its messy but not expensive.

Early_S_Man · 09-26-2004, 09:37 PM

Doug,

Here are a few references related to servicing Lobro CV joints:

http://volksweb.relitech.com/cvjoints.htm

http://www.type2.com/bartnik/cvjoints.htm

CV joint disassembly

Zeke · 09-26-2004, 11:06 PM

Doug, welcome to the board. I had a '67 bus split seat non sunroof. Great vehicle. I drove it to Vancover and back to LA once.

Anyway, if it's not mentioned on Warren's links, some say to keep track of which slots the balls came from and put them back where they were. That is in addition to keeping the orinentation of the CV halves the same.

Frankly, I've had good luck cleaning them w/o taking them apart. Takes longer and you need some air to blow solvent thru them, but mine got absolutely clean this way. I packed them with the proper amount of the proper grease, and off I went with no problems so far.

RoninLB · 09-26-2004, 11:23 PM

routine book life is about 60k miles, I think. although I change at about 1/4in slack.

fotsyr · 09-27-2004, 05:15 AM

Its easier to remove the hub nut, but requires an air gun, remove lower shock bolt, undo 6 diff side bolts and slide the whole CV out. Replace all the boots, just did mine, about 35minutes per side. If using solvent ensure all the grease is removed, elsewise you will have contaminated grease.

a-dougk1 · 09-27-2004, 09:54 AM

Thanks everyone for your help. I will go ahead and service all of the CV joints while I'm at it. The car has about 80000 miles, and if one of the CV joint boots is going to disintegrate, the rest of them are probably about to.

However, I think that the drivers side outer CV joint is probably toast. When I turn the wheel, it makes loud metalic scraping noises and pops and snaps. Dirt and other road grit was probably thrown into the exposed parts while I was driving back from Kansas. It probably isn't salvageable.

So, if I'm going to go ahead and replace the CV joint itself, what other parts do I need to get the job done right? I've never replaced a CV joint before, and there are other parts listed besides the CV joint itself and the boot. Should I get some spare bolts in case I destroy one or more of them removing them? Do I need new gaskets? Anything else?

Doug

Brent 930 · 09-27-2004, 10:05 AM

Doug,

I rebuilt my axles when I had the motor out doing a clutch and I would never do it again. It's a PITA and will just buy new ones next time with a core return. Drop a motor, change a clutch, valve adj. no problem...rebuilding axes, screw that.

RoninLB · 09-27-2004, 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by a-dougk1
Should I get some spare bolts in case I destroy one or more of them removing them? Do I need new gaskets? Anything else?

I'd replace both CVs on that half shaft.. and try to roughly measure the CV slop on the others.. WTF

cbeers · 09-27-2004, 10:07 AM

Hey Doug,

Have you looked into a replacement axle? End to end, all new was VERY affordable for my '87 Carrera. In fact, it was about the same price as the individual parts. Add in ease and saved time and it was a good choice for me. You may be more into working on it though.

Pelican carries them.

Just thought I would mention that option

-Chris