Ignition switch failed

krauthead · 10-05-2004, 03:56 AM

Went to start my car and the key turns with no resistance. No notches at any point. Also no dash lights or starter or anything. Would anyone know if this is a failure of the electrical part of the switch or the actual locking part. From what I can read the electrical portion can be changed from behind the dash. Doesn't sound real easy. What comes apart when you remove the two shear bolts under the round cover? This is a 91 C2 but it looks like the system was about the same forever. TIA

krauthead · 10-05-2004, 09:00 AM

Anyone???

RoninLB · 10-05-2004, 10:33 AM

I have no idea about a '91 C2.. why not remove the unit anyway to find out what's happening in there. Then you could jump wires around to get the car rolling.

911mike · 911mike's Garage

Try spraying some WD-40 in the tumblers. Worked for me and a lot easier than replacing the ignition.

88911coupe · 10-05-2004, 12:56 PM

This may come into play on my random no start problem on my 88. How do you remove the electical part behind the key? I looked under there but don't really recall seeing any obvious method. Don't mean to hijack the thread but we may be facing similar problems, however in my case I think my problem is in the heavy yellow wire going back to the starter.

kycarguy 935 · 10-05-2004, 01:06 PM

Behind the ignition is a group of wires. You can pull it off if you reach up behind there. Its been awhile since I took mine apart.

If you have to remove the ignition you need to unscrew the plastic surround in the front dash area where the key goes in then remove the wires in behind it then there are 2 steel riveted retainers holding the ignition in which will need to be drilled out.

Like I say its been awhile but this should give a brief description.

krauthead · 10-05-2004, 01:11 PM

Buck, I haven't really torn into mine yet, but from the searches I have done the elec. part behind the dash is held in place by two srews. One top and one bottom. The top one is supposed to be a bear to remove or even see. One post mentioned being able to go throught the firewall with a very long screwdriver. This is a not an everyday driver for me and will wait for me to get to it. So I'm just gathering as much info. as I can before I start. Don't worry about hijacking the thread. Maybe we can both benefit. As for the WD-40 solution, I'm pretty sure I'm past that kind of cure.

widebody911 · widebody911's Garage

I had a mech failure on mine a while back. There's a "+" shaped 'key' that connects the tubmbler mech to the electrical mech, and that bit broke.

krauthead · 10-05-2004, 01:20 PM

Thom, I think you might have nailed my problem. My key is rotating freely like it's not attached to anything. What was the fix?

krauthead · 10-05-2004, 01:34 PM

One thing that bothers me about this is that I have a full set of factory manuals as well as Adrian's book on the 964 and can't find a thing about it. I guess that's a result of Porsche's policy of building one set of manuals on the last model's manuals.

RoninLB · 10-05-2004, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by krauthead

One post mentioned being able to go throught the firewall with a very long screwdriver.

that top screw is a pia.

A 1/4 rachet, flex wire style extension. socket to fit those carpenter removal screw bits, remove steering wheel, and maybe some meds for patience.

the long screwdriver is worth the Harbor Freight price. The Snap-On cost me big bucks.

Parkin Hunter · 10-05-2004, 04:44 PM

See the below diagram of this assembly. I removed the shear bolts (#20 in the diagram) by drilling holes in them with a 5/64ths bit and used a Number 3 extractor to back them out. That was a piece of cake. The difficult part is dealing with number 23. This requires an Allen wrench. It is not obvious from the diagram but the end of number 23 is an Allen head. I do not remember the size. I could not get number 24 out without totally removing number 21. I think there were rivets to drill out. I replaced the shear screws (#20) with metric screws I bought from Lowe’s. No problem if you do not care about the anti-theft characteristics. I did not fool around with replacing number 24. I just bolted number 37 to the dash and start the car with a Philips screwdriver. It works great and no more steering lock. The wiring is so dense behind the dash that none of this is easy to do.

krauthead · 10-05-2004, 05:01 PM

Ron & Parkin & everyone, Thanks for the replies and the pictures. I'm starting to feel like I'm getting a handle on this thing. Removing the steering wheel is a great idea. That's the big block to getting a good look under the dash. I was also going to remove the knee pads for better access. I really appreciate the help with this.

safecracker · 10-05-2004, 05:27 PM

Your problem shouldn't require removal of ignition housing to figure out the real problem. If you look at part #37 you will see the X shape on top. The key cylinder merely turns this X to complete the electric connection. First pull off the electrical plug (not pictured) that goes on the bottom (in the drawing) of the electrical switch. Remove the 2 phillips screws, usually a long #1 phillips can be angled to get them out from under the dash. Remove electric switch #37. Observe turning of key with plug removed to see if male X shape driver is turning with key(as widebody911 mentioned), if it doesn't turn, then it is broken internally, if it does turn with direct motion of key, that is good. Now insert a phillips head screwdriver in X shape of electric switch and turn (make sure the car is not in gear). If this electric switch is problem, the screwdriver will not activate switch and you need to replace part #37. Good luck Phil