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Gent's,
I am currently in Iraq and my 1970 911T, with a 73 2.4. webber carbs has been stored. Any tips on a sequence to turning over the engine for the first time. The car has already been stored for 2.5 years, but I got it started every 6 months. The last time I tried to start it, the motor just turned ...never started for me. Yes, there is gas in the tank, but I didn't use any special gas stabo for the last year. I will be returning to the states this Spring and want to get the engine running and then drive it to a rebuild place somewhere in or around Maryland to get the engine rebuilt. That is Question #2...any one know a good shop in the MD area. Heck, if not, I'll drive it and fly home. Thanks ahead for any tips to Question 1 and 2. Bavaria Last edited by bavaria911; 10-14-2004 at 08:30 AM.. |
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: MD
Posts: 5,733
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I can recommend 2 good shops in MD, Ralph's in Owings Mills (410) 526-2500 and Tif's in Annapolis (410) 268-8288 . Both are good guys that have been in the business a long time.
Where is the car? I have long hood envy.
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Cornwall-on-Hudson, New York, USA
Posts: 4,499
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Obviously the primo thing about starting after long storage--or starting any engien for the first time--is to build oil pressure, to "pre-oil," before starting. The simplest way to do it is to remove the coil lead from the distributor and crank. Best way to do it, probably, is to remove the plugs from all six cylinders. that'll let the engine spin freely, and you'll build oil pressure quickly and thoroughly.
Stephan
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Stephan Wilkinson '83 911SC Gold-Plated Porsche '04 replacement Boxster |
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I would rather be driving
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 9,108
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IF it has been sitting for that long you will likely have to pull the carbs and clean the float bowls. I can almost bet your previous problem with starting is from dried fuel. It makes a mess of jet passageways inside carbs. They are very easy to disassemble and clean.
What makes you think you need a rebuild? have you done compression/leak down tests? I bet you will likely need a tune-up. I second the idea about pre-oiling. I wuold go one step further and actually remove the plugs. Then dump some oil down the holes and rotate the engine by hand. Hopefully the rings are not rusted to teh steel sleeves on the Biral cylinders. If you feel any resistance turning by hand with a short wrench,, STOP!!! you will risk breaking things. If you can rotate the engine by hand then move onto the starter and build oil pressure. If you have good oil pressure, hook it up and watch the smoke fly. Teh car will burn off the oil you dumped in the cylinders. It is highly likely you will have to remove the tank and clean it and the fuel lines. at least, drain the old gas and fill with clean stuff. Age and evaporation do not make fuel that will ignite easily. Jamie
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Jamie - I can explain it to you. But I can not understand it for you. 71 911T SWT - Sun and Fun Mobile 72 911T project car. "Minne" - A tangy version of tangerine #projectminne classicautowerks.com - EFI conversion parts and suspension setups. IG Classicautowerks |
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Do >not< "dump some oil" so enthusiastically that you cause hydraulic lock in even just one of the cylinders, which will bend the rod...or rods. There's not that much volume in the compression chamber, and if there's more incompressible oil than there is volume, something has to give. You can actually bend a conrod by hand, given enough leverage--like a prop on an airplane engine--if there is hydraulic lock.
Stephan
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Stephan Wilkinson '83 911SC Gold-Plated Porsche '04 replacement Boxster |
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clarification
Do not replace the spark plugs after dumping in the oil. Leave them out so the excess oil has a escape route as you turn the engine by hand. I have done this with boats stored over winters many, many times. Too many times. I hate the cold and storing my boat and 911 ahhhhh c%^^ see what you started.. |
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