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I'm sorting out some charging issues with my car. It's a 72T into which the PO retrofitted a 73.5 CIS (presumably when the original blew up.) Needless to say, I get suprised every once in a while.
My Alternator is a red-plate S.E.V. Motorola. I've red a few threads concerning "matching up" your alternator and voltage regulator. So, after my local alternator shop gave my alternator the thumbs up, my attention turned down the line to my VR, and here it is. ![]() ![]() ![]() I'm puzzled only because none of the Voltage Regulators in my haynes or any of Wayne's books look like this guy. Also I'm concerned because it has only two terminals, FLD, and IGN. the brown (D-) ground wire was attached to the case of the unit. Blue (D+61) came from the Alt. to "FLD", and black to "IGN" What is it? Should I keep using it? Or should I get what (assuming this is wrong) is supposed to be there? Thanks Last edited by Gogar; 10-18-2004 at 06:18 PM.. |
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Retired in Georgia
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That appears to me to be a relay, not a regulator.
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Looks like a relay to me also, but I found something in the haynes book that has those color wires and d+61 numbers for a 71 72 73, it is called a governor? Part #4 on the wiring chart.
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Band.
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Yes, 3.2 CAB, I think you're right about the Haynes manual. I think, however, that "governor" is possibly just fancy talk for Voltage Regulator.
Check this out: Do the alternator and VR have to be matched?? I'm just wonder (if indeed it is the VR) if it's right for my CIS with my Red Plate SEV Motorola. Thanks for looking. |
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That appears to be an early '60s vintage aftermarket MOPAR regulator, as that is how [IGN & FLD] they were labeled and correct type of terminals ... Faston for the Ign.lead and screw terminal for the Fld, but the shape of the metal cover was a bit more square-edged on the OEM version! Also, the OEM version had Red-lettered labels, not embossed on the case!
Your Motorola/SEV-Marchal alternator used a somewhat oval regulator with an aluminum cover and three screw-terminal lugs ... it was embossed with 'SEV' lettering. Here is a current production MOPAR regulator ... correct in all details EXCEPT the red lettering: ![]()
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I have the correct VR if you interested. it is the sev one and looks somewhat similar to the mopar one but clearly says sev on it
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I could be mistaken because it has been awhile but, That looks much like the voltage regulator that resided under the back seat of my '69 VW Beetle. Just a thought.
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As said, that's a replacement regulator for your red Marchel/Motorola alt.
It's probably the best reg. TYPE to use with your alt. type since it's easily adjusted by the small rear spring. The battery voltage at 2000 RPMs should not be greater than 13.8 volts, as those red plate alts. burn-out easily, especially with large (monster) batteries. Avoid using an electronic type (updated) regulator, as they'll cause the alt. to charge to too high a voltage. Remember, the red plate alt. is always putting-out an additional 1.0 volt internally because of the red plate. This causes the alt. to dissipate an additional 55 watts at max rating.
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Have Fun Loren Systems Consulting Automotive Electronics '88 911 3.2 '04 GSXR1000 '01 Ducati 996 '03 BMW BCR - Gone Last edited by Lorenfb; 10-19-2004 at 06:59 AM.. |
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Yeah mine is the factory style and came off a 74 I parted out. It is the fulley adjustable one and is not the curcuit board type. Let me know. It just is sitting around as I new some day some one would need it
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Loren, interesting.
So for a Motorola/Marchal with the red diode plate, you don't want the charging voltage to be over 13.8. So the trick is to get an adjustable voltage regulator and set the field current so that the output is no higher than 13.8 at 2000. What do you mean by an additional 1.0 volts internally? Can you provide some more detail there?
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Band.
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mb911, I sent you a pm.
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You have a pm back
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Band.
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So, if I understand correctly:
I can INCREASE the voltage by TIGHTENING the spring or bending the tab on the bottom end of the spring DOWN? ![]() |
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"So, if I understand correctly:
I can INCREASE the voltage by TIGHTENING the spring or bending the tab on the bottom end of the spring DOWN?" You got it! "So the trick is to get an adjustable voltage regulator and set the field current so that the output is no higher than 13.8 at 2000." The average field current; the regulator acts as switching regulator - It switches off the field current at a set voltage level & switches back on at a lower voltage, i.e. it has hystersis. "What do you mean by an additional 1.0 volts internally? Can you provide some more detail there?" The red plate has two diodes in parallel and in series with the output which conventionally designed alts. don't, e.g. the later 55 amp Marchel and the 70 amp SC Marchel. These diodes cause an additional voltage drop which gets "madeup" internally by a higher internal voltage ~ +1.0 volts. The red plate alt. is a bad design.
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Have Fun Loren Systems Consulting Automotive Electronics '88 911 3.2 '04 GSXR1000 '01 Ducati 996 '03 BMW BCR - Gone Last edited by Lorenfb; 10-19-2004 at 06:44 PM.. |
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Loren from what I am reading I sould not use the new hugo soilid state vr that I just bought for my sc?? I should use the stock one and take the top off and set the voltage?? Don't worry gogar I am not useing the early one.
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The SC alt. (70A) is not problematic as the red plate (55A) alt. is. So a good electronic
regulator is not a problem for the 70A Marchel alt.
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Have Fun Loren Systems Consulting Automotive Electronics '88 911 3.2 '04 GSXR1000 '01 Ducati 996 '03 BMW BCR - Gone |
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Thanks Glad to hear. It is a hugo so maybe its good
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looks like a Rick to me.
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