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kcope's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Mass
Posts: 246
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Possible Clutch Fork Problem

Hello Forum,
I'm still struggling with my clutch. The cable guide problem has been fixed.
I adjusted the cable and tried it but still no clutch. Just a bad sounding noise which I took to be the fork making contact with something.
So I decided to replace the cable. After disconnecting the cable I found the clutch fork has almost a full range of movement. It definately is not putting the TO bearing in contact with the pressure plate fingers.
I looked inside where the clutch fork goes in the tranny and moved the fork. It seems like theres an awful lot of play (slop ) between the clutch fork and the bolt that holds it.
My question is could the clutch fork bolt have backed out enough to be the cause of lack of clutch action?
TIA

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Ken Copeland
70 GT6+ KC78784
70 Spit FDU84919
70 GT6+ KC81551 (Ok so I like 70s)
71 Porsche 911T
00 Chevy Pick UP
Old 10-25-2004, 09:37 AM
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Grady Clay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Arapahoe County, Colorado, USA
Posts: 9,032
Ken,

This all works best when you keep a single thread on a topic. Your prior thread was:
Clutch keeps going out of adjustment

The clutch release arm can contact the perimeter of the pressure plate under some circumstances.
You can inspect the arm and the perimeter of the pressure plate through
the arm slot in the transmission.
Contact should be obvious.

There can be several reasons for contact:

As the clutch wears, the arm moves closer to contact.
If the pivot brakes, the arm can contact.
On the early pivot there is a plastic bushing that can fail or wear out.
The clutch release bearing can be failing and allow contact.
The large circlip that retains the bearing can come off.

As you discovered, the arm contact with the transmission is also an issue.

In addition to the two threads I linked in the above thread, read this one from today also.
It has more diagrams.
Moving the clutch lever pivot ball

You should be able to diagnose the problem without removing the engine and transmission.
This remarkable little SnapOn ECF-1600 flashlight is ideal (just $32 - ugh) for inspection.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=9465&group_ID=1109&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Only with a good diagnosis should you pull the engine and transmission if necessary.

Best,
Grady
Old 10-25-2004, 10:55 AM
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Thanks Grady,
I think the problem might be with the pivot bolt. I can move the fork up and down on the pivot bolt at least 1/2 inch! And the fork just flops back and forth.
I'm convinced something inside is messed up. Anyway the car goes back to the shop. I'll let them worry about it. I already know more about the clutch on a 911 than I wanted to know.
Thanks again
__________________
Ken Copeland
70 GT6+ KC78784
70 Spit FDU84919
70 GT6+ KC81551 (Ok so I like 70s)
71 Porsche 911T
00 Chevy Pick UP
Old 10-25-2004, 01:20 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Arapahoe County, Colorado, USA
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Ken,

Having you be most knowledgeable IS the goal. This way you can successfully communicate your proposed diagnosis and submit it to the scrutiny of this Forum. This allows you to DIY as much as you want but, more important, communicate with shops and mechanics without being bamboozled.

Get a flashlight, look up in there and tell us what you see. Digital cameras are even better.

Best,
Grady
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Old 10-25-2004, 01:49 PM
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Finally got the car to the shop. As I thought it was the bolt that holds the clutch fork. The bolt stripped and the nut had started backing out. They were able to change the bolt without dropping the Engine.
Anyway it looks the problem is fixed.

__________________
Ken Copeland
70 GT6+ KC78784
70 Spit FDU84919
70 GT6+ KC81551 (Ok so I like 70s)
71 Porsche 911T
00 Chevy Pick UP
Old 12-23-2004, 06:18 AM
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