Front Bushing diagnosis

[HarryD]

I am contemplating suspension upgrades this winter.

How do you tell when it is time to replace your aging Front A-Arm Bushings? Is there something to inspect other than the calendar?

[ubiquity0]

If they're 30 years old its a bit of a no-brainer since you're in there anyway.

You could probably pull the torsion bars & check for areas where the paint has rubbed off (indicating flow in the bushings) & if not just assume they're 'good enough' & leave them inhoping they'll last a bit longer.

I would replace them. What upgrades are you planning?

[Zeke]

Same as the rears. The end of the arm needs to be located in the center of the bracket. Like he says, once it starts rubbing, you're way past due to replace.

[Silveresrty911S]

After putting in new 22 front/ 28 rear torsion bars a few month ago, they are starting to squeek bad. I've also been doing some AX's.
I wish I had replaced them when I put in the new t-bars, aligned and corner balanced . I'm probably going to go with elephants poly bronze bushings up front. I've replaced the rears with Weltmiester last year so I'll save up to do the bushings, align and corner balance again
My .02

[randywebb]

Rubber -- as we know it - is a temporary material. It loses its elasticity and gets hard over time -- even if it does not have any weight or stress on it. Tires need to be replaced no matter the tread depth every 6-7 years or so. I don't know what ht e time period might be for bushings but it has to be less than 30 years.

At a guess, the hardening above is due to cross-linking of the rubber molecules....

Replace yours - use the Elephant polybronze if you can afford them. many threads on this so do a search

[HarryD]

Originally posted by ubiquity0
If they're 30 years old its a bit of a no-brainer since you're in there anyway.

You could probably pull the torsion bars & check for areas where the paint has rubbed off (indicating flow in the bushings) & if not just assume they're 'good enough' & leave them inhoping they'll last a bit longer.

I would replace them. What upgrades are you planning?

I figured as much but was hoping for something to scope my project before I disassembled. As you are aware, the options for the rebushing of the front end are not really that attractive if your are seeking a low cost/stock kind of job. You have only Polyurethane (requiring maching to fit) or Chuck Moreland's Polybronze for a great fit at a high cost.

I have no idea when/if the fronts were ever replaced. Prior to my ownership the car was in a front end wreck of some sort so it is possible the a-arms were replaced. My rear torsions are off-center so I know I need to do them. I am planning on Neatrix bushings for these.

Once I rebush, the plan is to lower to euro height, align, and corner balance.

[randywebb]

You can use stock rubber. It's another option - not sure what the cost is, but mine weren't too spendy.

You could stick a metal probe i them to see how much give they have - compare with some new ones.

[HarryD]

Originally posted by randywebb
Rubber -- as we know it - is a temporary material. It loses its elasticity and gets hard over time -- even if it does not have any weight or stress on it. Tires need to be replaced no matter the tread depth every 6-7 years or so. I don't know what ht e time period might be for bushings but it has to be less than 30 years.

At a guess, the hardening above is due to cross-linking of the rubber molecules....

Replace yours - use the Elephant polybronze if you can afford them. many threads on this so do a search

Randy, Thanks. I know but I am trying to define scope beore I start. I hate surprises!

[HarryD]

Originally posted by randywebb
You can use stock rubber. It's another option - not sure what the cost is, but mine weren't too spendy.

You could stick a metal probe i them to see how much give they have - compare with some new ones.

I had alwys heard the the you could not use stock rubber in the fronts as it was vulcanized to the arm itself. The third option is a new a-arm (too many $$$).

Can you elaborate on how to replace just the rubber?

[84toy]

Well, buying Chuck's bushings is like going to the dentist. You hate to go there but you feel so much better after it's done. Seriously, your front end will work so good with the polybronze, you will kick yourself for not doing it sooner. I'm very happy with mine and would not even consider another type of bushing after using them. (I have no affiliation with Chuck)

[88 Club Sport]

Harry,

I went with the "low cost approach" you mentioned above by using the poly bushings up front in my 78SCarrera. I did not find it that difficult to get the fit needed......just a little patience needed. If you go this route, I recommend adding in zerks so that grease can be added at a later date if things start to squeak.

There is some good info from Chuck is on this thread:
Suspension bushing, the right way

I went with Neatrix in the rear....total cost front and rear was less $100 from our host. The new bushings, 23/29's, turbo tie rods and Bilstien Sports plus a good corner balance transformed the car.

[HarryD]

I looked at Chuck's old thread and now see my front options are: 1)Get street Poly and adjust the ID of the unit to match my arms and add Zerk fittings; or 2) Go with Polybronze.

Since I lack a lathe at home, I will need to see if I can convince the machinst at work to let me use his (and hopefully his expertise). lacking that, It looks like Polybronze for me.

[randywebb]

Can you elaborate on how to replace just the rubber?

- The replacement is no problem, you just slip them on. I bought them thru a local shop. He may have gotten them from Neatrix - I'm not sure. As of 2 years ago, this was a definite option. Note - when I did this the polybronze was not available -- or at least I didn't know they existed.

Good Luck!

[88 Club Sport]

Harry,
While the lathe is nice, few of us have one and many on this board have done this mod without one.

I used emory paper on a broom handle (built up w/ duct tape) for the ID. Sure it was not as precise as a lathe but with patience you can identify the high spots once pressed into the fitting on and remove accordingly.

If you are on a budget, it can be done.

[HarryD]

Originally posted by randywebb
Can you elaborate on how to replace just the rubber?

- The replacement is no problem, you just slip them on. I bought them thru a local shop. He may have gotten them from Neatrix - I'm not sure. As of 2 years ago, this was a definite option. Note - when I did this the polybronze was not available -- or at least I didn't know they existed.

Good Luck!

I guess we may have a terminolgy issue here. I am thinking that you are referring to getting stock rubber (like what the factory vulcanized onto the arm) and you may be thinking the same or possibly the street version of the Neatrix material.