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Optical Trigger Convesion For Points Questions. Early Cars 72/2.4

I trying to get the car tuned , and one of the new parts I ordered is the Crane Optical Trigger Conversion to get rid of the points.
THis is the kit offered by our host.
I have a few questions

1. If you done it before can you post some points and helpful hints?

2. The instructions don't say anything about Porsche, Which hook up do you use? HI-6 ,HI-6S, or MSD-6.
I bought this one so I can keep the rest of the engine stock.

3. THe Crane Installation Kit, gives two Bosch Distributors as a choice. What kind is it?
a. Bosch Hall Effect
b. Bosch Magnetic

THanks and here are some pics
Derek Oxford


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Old 01-08-2005, 04:09 PM
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anyone?
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Old 01-08-2005, 05:01 PM
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I did the exact change you refer to. Crane optical, with an MSD 6AL.

The wiring was semi straightforward. I made a diagram ahead of time as the colors from the three manufacturers were different, of course.

I will say this. I wish the Crane cost more. It's inexpensive, and it shows in the samped metal peices, which were a pain to line up. Plus the access to the dizzy was a pain. I took it out and did it on the bench, but final adjustemnt was done in the car.

I am much happier knowing that the points are gone. And the car starts right up, and runs better. I have Webers, so the ignition has really helped me run better.

If you keep the stock location of the coil as I have, you'll need the high vibe unit as it is better suited to the upside down mounting.

I'll run outside right now and snap a few pics if you want.
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Old 01-08-2005, 05:10 PM
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The directions are terrible, but its easy.

Black -> ground
White -> black/purple wire that used to connect to the points
Red -> switched 12V from the bottom fuse on the fuse panel
Old 01-08-2005, 06:15 PM
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Jake,
What is this?
If you keep the stock location of the coil as I have, you'll need the high vibe unit as it is better suited to the upside down mounting.
Sherman. Thanks that make it easy.

Derek
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Old 01-08-2005, 06:22 PM
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Just make sure you use the correct pulley marks to set the motor at TDC when you install the trigger and shutter. I screwed it up the first time, setting the shutter to open/fire using the advance marks on the pulley instead of the Z1 mark. Flooded the car, no way it would start. After resetting the shutter correctly it fired right up.
Old 01-08-2005, 06:27 PM
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I had a problem with the tach....needed a conversion module....
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Old 01-08-2005, 06:33 PM
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Weird, I did not need a conversion unit. But my tach is bouncy, just like it was before!
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Jake Gulick, Black Rock, CT.
'73 yellow 911E , & 2003 BMW M3 Cab. Ex: 84 Mazda RX-7 SCCA racer. did ok with it, set some records, won some races, but it wore out, LOL[/B]
Old 01-08-2005, 06:38 PM
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As I recall, the MSD requires a specific coil, and the high vibe is beeded to keep the coils from over heating in the upside down mounting conficuration. So I chose the MSD unit just out of "safety"
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Jake Gulick, Black Rock, CT.
'73 yellow 911E , & 2003 BMW M3 Cab. Ex: 84 Mazda RX-7 SCCA racer. did ok with it, set some records, won some races, but it wore out, LOL[/B]
Old 01-08-2005, 06:42 PM
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Sherman,
Which is it the Hall Effect or the Magnetic?
Derek
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Old 01-08-2005, 06:44 PM
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Its not hall effect, thats for an SC. I didnt think it was magnetic either, but honestly, I don't remember what the directions said.

Im going from memory here:

-Turn the engine over by hand until the pulley is at Z1
-pop the distributor cap off, dont unhook the sparkplug wires
-get a sharpie and mark where the rotor is pointing on the engine case, fan, or whatever its pointing at.
-remove the distributor, wrap the shaft in a towel, and put it in a vise
-pull the rotor & plastic dustcap
-remove the breaker points
-install the optical trigger per the instructions
-install the shutter so that the diode can shine through one of the openings as it spins.
-reinstall the distributor and test fit the rotor checking to make sure its pointing at the mark you made earlier with the sharpie and that the shutter and diode are aligned to send the fire signal. Adjust shutter and/or diode until satisfied and then tighten the trigger down
-push the rotor all the way on
-reinstall the cap, check the plug wire connections
-terminate the 3 wires as mentioned above
-say goodbye to your bouncing tach
-start the car and set the timing according to the spec book

hope that helps

Last edited by Shuie; 01-08-2005 at 07:06 PM..
Old 01-08-2005, 07:04 PM
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The need for a tach module depends on the particular CDI unit used.....my 2.2 worked fine...my 2.0 needed the module. 2.7 needed a module....go figure.
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Last edited by Joe Bob; 01-08-2005 at 07:07 PM..
Old 01-08-2005, 07:04 PM
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yep. If you have the stock Bosch 3 pin box you should be ok with the Crane and the '72 tach. I went with the Crane because it let me keep the stock 3 pin Bosch CD box. IIRC, it works with the 3 pin permatune boxes also.
Old 01-08-2005, 07:11 PM
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More than likely....my memeory on WHY they needed the module is fuzzy....must be the tequila.....
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Old 01-08-2005, 07:18 PM
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This was the single best modification I made to my car. I went with the optical trigger, XR700 module and the Crane coil. It totally cured starting issues and plug fouling.
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Old 01-08-2005, 09:20 PM
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Optical vs. pertronix

This is on my list to do this winter, but I was leaning to the Pertronix Ignitor kit, it looked easier. Any advice appreciated.



So the coil sitting upside down means I need a high vibration coil? Is the CD Box the thing at left side near the back near the fuel filter?

Thanks

Mike
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Old 01-09-2005, 04:45 AM
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Hi Mike -

The CD thing is underneath the black cover next to the fuel filter. Just unscrew the thumbscrew in the center and pull off the cover. The CD is the alum colored box with fins closest to the fuel filter. DO NOT PLAY WITH IT before reading the cautions. Has a huge voltage shock.

You only need the "hi vibration" coil if you replace the CD box with an MSD box. Search threads on MSD upgrades.

I installed the Pertronix kit and Magnacore plug wires and am very happy with the result. It was very easy - basically you're just replacing the points with the ignitor set up. Takes about ten minutes. Frankly, the plug wires were more of a hassle because they'd been in the distributor cap so long. HTH....
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Old 01-09-2005, 07:27 AM
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Now it will not Start.

1. When you connect the white wire to the purple and black wire, do you also keep the black wire connected to the black and purple wire?

2. I have pulled it out and put it back in , I did not make a mark on the engine for placement.
a. Can I move the engine to TDC and place it back in with the rotor on #one?
3. I used the ground that the Coil in on , on the fan housing no problem there right?
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Last edited by deoxford; 01-09-2005 at 01:03 PM..
Old 01-09-2005, 12:35 PM
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Ok, I just got it to start, bu it sound light it running on 4 instead of 6
I need to go and get a timing light, but I don't think that is it

I adjusted the timing with out a light and it still sounds bad.
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Old 01-09-2005, 01:06 PM
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Uh oh! OK, #2 first. Yes. your best option, IMO. ut remember the gear of the dizzy will spin a bit on the way down, I think. So, make sure the final result is whaere it should be. Might take an attempt or two.

One issue I had trouble with was an intermittant connection to the MSD. It was fine on the meter, but failed to supply the current needed. It was infuriating. Make sure the MSD connections are stout for power and ground.

I'll go snap some pics and see if I can find my diagram.

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'73 yellow 911E , & 2003 BMW M3 Cab. Ex: 84 Mazda RX-7 SCCA racer. did ok with it, set some records, won some races, but it wore out, LOL[/B]
Old 01-09-2005, 01:12 PM
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