912 Upgrade problems

[Kobus Brits]

I have installed a 911T 2,2 liter flat 6 in my 1966 912 and now have the following problems with which I trust someone out there could assist me with:
1. The oil temperature gauge does not function properly as it would indicate max temp when it is cold and as the car heats up the gauge would indicate a colder temperature untill the needle is at the lowest level (same as when the car is switched off).
2. The performance is not that wonderfull and I suspect that the fuel pump is not adequate as it is a small square Facet pump. Is this adequate?
3. At the back of the right hand side timing chain housing it seems like a shaft is portruding causing a severe oil leak. What can be done about that?
4. Are there still spares (rotor, points, condensor, cap) available for the Magnetti Marelli distrubutor fitted to this engine?

[el torro]

i have 1970 9117 2.2l fitted to my 912,temp sender for 912 not same as 911,mareli parts hard to find sep. hovever some new old stock available,ichanged mine to bosch with lumination elect.ign.john any quest imight be able to help you with e-mail direct to jbt@blueyonder.co.uk

[silverc4s]

Your oil leak sounds like the engine has carrera tensioners installed and the R H oil line is missing..
I will try to find a picture for you, if you have one of your engine to share that would be useful.
Are you using Weber carbs? If so, the facet pump should be adequate for flow & pressure. The carbs have many critical adjustments, for float level, balance, etc. There is a tech brief on here with details I think.

[silverc4s]

Here's a picture of the oil line on R H Cam Case:



Courtesy of Wayne's Tech Brief

[silverc4s]

Here's the start of a carb reference:
http://www.pmocarb.com/bulletins.htm

[silverc4s]

Here's all the poop on Webers, at one place:
http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs/

[Kobus Brits]

Thanks for the info on the sender unit, I was under the impression that the units are the same. Unfortunately I do not have Weber carbs on as they are hard to find in SA and when you do get it, its very expensive. The engine is fitted with Zenith carbs, and I haven't been very successful in my efforts of balancing it. I do have a basic procedure and the syncro meter, but the car is still not smooth at idling and at lower revs. I will post a picture of the portruding shaft on the timing chain housing at the back (between housing and engine).

[Early_S_Man]

Yes, I believe you have a fuel supply volume problem with that Facet pump ... it is commonly used for VW and other small 4-cylinder applications, not high-performance 6-cylinders!

To be sure, test the output volume ... the spec. for carbed 911 is 900 - 1000 cc per minute.

You may have a problem with rusty fuel lines, or tank, or partially-clogged fuel strainer at the tank outlet.

[jpnovak]

I will also add that clogged jets inside the carbs will cause very poor performance. The small facet pump will probably not flow enough fuel for that engine. You will likely notice the engine breaks up at high rpm, especially after a minute or so. This is due to the full float bowls not staying full since the pump can not keep up.

I think you will find that Marelli parts are difficult and expensive to find. many people start shopping for a bosch replacement.

[silverc4s]

Just add another data point, I used the Facet pumps for years on Weber carb'd 2.0 L & 2.4L engines. Never had a problem with them, found them to be good value for the $$.
Note: My 69 T came with the Hardi pump - what a POS that was. I bought Two replacements in <1 year before I gave up on that solution.

EDIT: The small Facet 12v pump is rated at 15gph @3psi if I recall correctly. That's safely within the range Warren recommends.
PS >If you are going racing, all bets are off.

[silverc4s]

Then, on the other hand, these guys [Top End Performance] really H A T E the Facet, and recommend a Carter Rotary..

http://www.racetep.com/webfuelspark.html#webfuel

[Kobus Brits]

Attached are a few pictures showing the portruding shaft at the back of the timing chain cover on the right hand side.

Your comments or advice will be appreciated.

[Peterfrans]

That shaft is where your chain tensioner is mounted on. I would NOT start that engine again before it is fixed. If it backs out any further, the chain tensioner will slips off from this shaft. This will cause the valves to colide with the pistons. A very expensive experience.

I believe it is a press fit in the housing and is sealed with epoxy (jb weld works well). You will need to examine if the bore in the chain housing is still ok.

[Kobus Brits]

Thank you Peter. Any ideas on why that shaft would have started to move? Would there be something else wrong which caused the movement?Do you think it will be neccessary to replace the tensioner and chain?

[SteveF_911]

I had the same problem with the temperature sender.

The sender that matches the guage is expensive and made from pure unobtanium.

It is easier to take the gauge to a instrument specialist and get them to replace the gauge and supply a matching sender. This works out about half the cost of the sender.

The shaft is a bit of a worry. I think you will need to look around for a new timing chain housing.