Source for SAE 7/16"-20 forged eye bolts?

[djmcmath]

I understand that I need a few of these to properly install harnesses in my '86 911. Only problem is that I can't seem to find anyone who sells them in the short 1" size, as the venerable Wil Ferch recommends in his Rennlist technical article. Where did the rest of you find these things?


TIA,

Dan

[TimT]

McMaster

[djmcmath]

Thanks, I'm impressed. 10 billion fasteners, but I can't find one single 7/16-20 forged eye bolt in the lot. Maybe my search-fu is weak?

TIA,

Dan

[djmcmath]

Anybody else? Where did you get your harness installation bolts?

[sturco]

Pegasus Racing has them, short,long length. Steve

[djmcmath]

Awesome, thanks Steve. $2.99 for the short ones, and they're even in stock!

[ChrisBennet]

Not that you would mind you, but eye bolts should be used such that the load it trying to pull them out, not pull them sideways (shear). An example of how not to use them would be to use them for mounting a harness to the 7/16-20 seat belt mounting points. Not that you would of course...
-Chris

[sturco]

No Problem ! Steve

[djmcmath]

Originally posted by ChrisBennet
Not that you would mind you, but eye bolts should be used such that the load it trying to pull them out, not pull them sideways (shear). An example of how not to use them would be to use them for mounting a harness to the 7/16-20 seat belt mounting points. Not that you would of course...
-Chris

Alright, Chris, I'll bite. Let's say that I _would_, of course, do it that way, because I'm a computer scientist who never had to take "Strengths and Materials." (Or Statics, or Dynamics, or any of the "hard" engineering classes, quite frankly...) What is the correct way to mount a 6-point harness (while still retaining the use of the seatbelts) (and not drilling) in one of these cars? Should I have bolt-in ends on all 6 points, rather than clip-ins? I was thinking I'd want bolt-ins at most of them, but Crow sent me mostly clip-in ends, so I kind of figured eye bolts were The Right Answer.

What's the correct way to complete this install so I don't kill myself if I have an accident?


Thanks again,

Dan

[ChrisBennet]

Originally posted by djmcmath
Alright, Chris, I'll bite. Let's say that I _would_, of course, do it that way, because I'm a computer scientist who never had to take "Strengths and Materials." (Or Statics, or Dynamics, or any of the "hard" engineering classes, quite frankly...) What is the correct way to mount a 6-point harness (while still retaining the use of the seatbelts) (and not drilling) in one of these cars? Should I have bolt-in ends on all 6 points, rather than clip-ins? I was thinking I'd want bolt-ins at most of them, but Crow sent me mostly clip-in ends, so I kind of figured eye bolts were The Right Answer.

What's the correct way to complete this install so I don't kill myself if I have an accident?


Thanks again,

Dan

I'm pretty sure Brey Kraus has the setup you are looking for. I don't see it listed on Pelican but they can probably get it. I suspect the the huge amount of stuff Pelican does list on their web site makes people think that if it isn't on the web site they don't have it. This is just not true. PP pretty much has everything.

Check out these links:
BK seat belt harness stuff
R-9001 Tunnel Side seat belt mount kit
R-9003 Outside Seat Belt Mount Kit

I made a bracket for inner seat belt mounting points similar to the earlier cars that had the seatbelt receiver mounted to the hump instead of the seat. Look at a buddy's 911SC seat belt receiver (under the rubber boot) to see what I'm talking about.

For the outer seat belt mounting point I used a longer bolt and and "D" shaped harness end and passed the bolt through both the D harness end and the stock belts.
-Chris

[djmcmath]

Thanks, Chris. Knowledge like yours makes this board work. I'm good on the lap belt points, now -- BK parts for both inner and outter to make those work correctly -- both as clip-on points. The sub belts have bolt-on ends, and I'm thinking about mounting them to either the slider frame or to the point where the slider mounts into the floorpan. Is either location preferable? Will I need to buy more parts to make that part work? Next up, for the harness straps for over-the-shoulder -- I assume that an eyebolt is a poor choice for using at the factory rear seat mount locations, as well? I should swap out the clip-on ends on those for bolt-on ends and use the stock mounting bolts, right?

Thanks again,

Dan

[ChrisBennet]

Dan,
I don't have a good answer for the sub belt.

I used a screw eye through the floor with a really big washer. You can buy the eyebolt + big washer setup from most places that sell harnesses. The problem with this "solution" is that on your car the DME is right where you want to put the eye bolt (I moved my DME). Another obvious problem (for some people) is that you have to drill a big hole in your car. If you look under your car you'll see that there are already quite a few holes with plugs in them - one more plug is not going to make a difference to me but it might to you.

I've heard of people running a rod between the seat mount brackets - you know the platforms that stick up 2-3" high on later cars.

-Chris

[greglepore]

As a "cowboy" solution to the seatbelt/eyebolt issue, I used a "hinge strap" from a local Farm and Tractor shop-1/4 in plate about 2 in wide that has a end rolled into it to accept a hinge pin, or a forged eybolt. Drilled ththe flat to accept the stock seatbelt bolt, and put the eye in the other end. Total cost is under 10 bucks. You could put a spot of weld on the rolled part if you were concerned, but it looks plenty stout as is.

The Brey Krause piece is very pretty but very dear for what it is.

[djmcmath]

Alright, I'll end up faking the sub belt. I know there are dozens of holes in the floor of my car. I know that one more won't make any difference, in the grand scheme of things. I know, I know, I know. (sigh) But still, it hurts to cut holes in my mistress. The spirit is strong but the flesh is weak. Anyhow, I think I'll pick a couple of points towards the back of the seat mount and bolt them there.

Greg, your idea sounds brilliant. At least, it sounds $50 cheaper than the B-K solution. If I could weld, I wouldn't need B-K at all, quite frankly. Thanks for the idea.


Dan

[rlh930]

Originally posted by ChrisBennet
I'm pretty sure Brey Kraus has the setup you are looking for.

Depending on what you intend to do with the car, this setup may or may not be allowed. In our PCA region, the B/K setup (P/N R9001) is OK for Time Trials in Stock and Improved classes, but not in any Modified class. Better check the rulebook if you intend to run the car on track.

[djmcmath]

Originally posted by rlh930
Depending on what you intend to do with the car, this setup may or may not be allowed. In our PCA region, the B/K setup (P/N R9001) is OK for Time Trials in Stock and Improved classes, but not in any Modified class. Better check the rulebook if you intend to run the car on track.

No kidding? Aargh. Thanks for the heads-up...

[Wil Ferch]

Maybe I'm confused.... ( what else is new ?? ) ....

First....did we ever get an answer on shoulder straps mounting point? Is the rear seat belt bolt holes the answer or not ? How would using ( say) an eye-bolt ( and clip-ons) be any different than using a bolt-in mount in this location? Both type of bolts would be in shear.

BTW....if you look at a later ( mid -year...say 1985) stock set up for the front seats....the inboard female receptacle is mounted at the very bottom of the seat slider arrangement...to allow the receptacle to be swung fore/aft ( up/down). Isn't this mounting bolt in shear as it comes from the factory ?????

Wil

[greglepore]

Wil-Excellent point. All of the factory mounts are in shear.

I thought the BK piece was simply due to clearance issues with an eybolt in that location.

Chris?

[ChrisBennet]

[greglepore]

Ok-the issue is really with the leverage presented by the height of the eye. Thanks.