Need advice on suspension set up

[JSDSKI]

72T MFI coupe. 85% street 15% DE - Autox

It will be minimalist: no a/c, no s/r, no radio, maybe RS lexan slider windows. RS type interior. TRE rollbar. I'm adding RS flares and 6" and 7" Fuchs. No tire choice yet. For street use no ducktail or RS spoiler - but they will be added for track days. Going with FG fenders, hood, bumpers, and decklid and might use FG doors for track.

I've acquired Bilstein struts and HD rear shocks, alum trailing arms, turbo tie rods, and am looking for 84-89 Carrera front calipers and adjustable OEM springplates. Will add new bearings.

So, I'm thinking it is time for an Elephant Racing package:

21/27 torsion bars (hollow) ?
Maybe moving to sport shocks in the rear ?
ER bushings and carriers in the front ?
ER bushings in the rear ?
ER strut bar ?

Do you think Elephant Racing sway bars are ok for a mostly street car? They look great and I'm sure they work but are they designed for "racing maintanence" and need to be cleaned and adjusted every weekend to work properly ?

Other tips or tricks ?

Thanks for your help.....

[fredmeister]

Consider getting your stock Bilstein shocks revalved at Bilstein for custom specifications on rebound and compression damping that matches the torsion bar sizes you go with. Supposed to make a big difference and cheaper than buying new Sport shocks.
Run radical camber and toe settings to get the most of the handling benefit, and lower the car to at least Euro ride height or less to get the cg down.
Good luck.

[Jack Olsen]

Your list looks great, to me. I'd maybe go with bigger torsions, though (22/29?). I wouldn't sweat hollow/solid.

The Elephant Racing stuff is great for the street.

As someone who's been there and done that, I would definitely steer you away from Lexan side windows. In a street-driven 911, you want to be able to not look like a dork, right? Sliding Lexan slide windows become a drama at every drive-thru window, parking lot entrance, and moment when a dude pulls up next to you and wants to talk about your car. They are appropriate for a race car, where they're basically kept down all the time. But in normal use, they will get scratched up, will require a lot of effort to raise and lower, and make your car very easy to break into.

[Chuck Moreland]

Your list looks good. This will be responsive lightweight the should be a blast to drive.

I like the 21/27 combo for your car. The car will be very lightweight, and this combo will work well for the lower speeds of AX and occasional DE use.

The sway bars have maintenance-free teflon lined rod ends. They hold up well in street use. You will spend some time adjusting them initially, but once you have them dialed to your liking you will probably leave them alone.

You will also want turbo tie rods and a bump steer kit.

[JSDSKI]

Thanks for the tip on the windows - what about front and rear vents ?

Couple more questions:

1) So if I start going to open track days will I eventually end up with bigger torsion bars ?

2) Bilstein HD's ok or should they be revalved for 21/27 's ?

3) Bump steer kit or is it better to raise spindles ?

[Chuck Moreland]

If you get serious about tracking the car, you will want larger torsion bars. But 21/27 will take you a long way and are actually better for the lower speeds and rough surfaces typical of AX.

Raised spindles make sense when you agressively lower the car. Given that it is basically a street car now, you'll need to maintain some ground clearance to avoid scraping driveways. That is why I didn't recommend this.

Bump steer/raise spindles are not mutually exclusive alternatives - each solves a different problem. In fact if you raise the spindles, you increase the need for bump steer correction! It becomes mandatory.

[911teo]

Scott you have a pm re Carrera brakes

[rdane]

Originally posted by JSDSKI
Thanks for the tip on the windows - what about front and rear vents ?

I had the same idea. Right up until the windows arrived. They are nice parts and a good weight savings. But my take was too easy to break into the car and the stuff is very very thin. I went back to all glass.

[Chuck Moreland]

Lexan sides are definitely easier to break into than glass. If this is any kind of daily driver or regular car, stick with glass. I have lexan on my 73 and I really like it. But it is a toy car and security is rarely a concern.

Rear qtr windows are fine to convert to lexan, no real compromises here. Front qtr windows only save about 1 lb each so not really worth the effort.