Vacuum leak parts list

[rbuswell]

A shop that worked on my very straight '82 SC told me that they couldn't get the CIS to adjust because it has vacuum leaks. Before I take the injection system all apart, I figure that I should have everything I need to repair it. I don't believe any of the parts that would contribute to this problem have ever been replaced so I'm planning to replace everything. Here's my part list so far:

6 - Rubber intake sleeves
6 - Injector O-Rings
6 - Injector Sleeve O-Rings
6 - Injector Sleeves
6 - Intake manifold gaskets
1 - Throttle body mounting O-Ring
1 - Airbox to sensor housing gasket

Can you fellow Pelicans think of anything I may have missed?

[Scott R]

Vacuum lines to the distro, vacuum line to the AAV, vacuum line to the cruise unit. Replace rubber lines to the brake booster, and the o-ring at the booster to MC connection. Check for cracks on the under side of the air boot, check for cracks in the AAR/AAV/Decel circuit. Replace the crush ring on the brake booster line to airbox nipple, replace the o-ring on the cold start valve. Clean the throttle body and check for leaks on the idle bypass screw. Also may want to check and replace the line form the air boot to the oil filler neck, it can crack and leak as well.

EDIT: If and when you get done, if you want to borrow my Gunson CO meter to set your mixture let me know, I'm not far form Castle Rock and would be happy to loan it to you.

[rbuswell]

Wow, Scott this is great! Sounds like I'm going to be pretty busy buying, checking and replacing. And yes I would like to borrow the CO meter when I get it done.

[RoninLB]

[tcar]

Do you have a pop-off valve? That's probably the most common vac leak. Check the seal, make sure it's closed tightly.

[rbuswell]

Originally Posted by tcar

Do you have a pop-off valve? That's probably the most common vac leak. Check the seal, make sure it's closed tightly.

Mine was actually sitting in the bottom of the airbox when the mechanic opened the airbox. After seeing that, I determined that the design of the base of the valve is really supposed to be flat on the airbox contrary to Wayne's picture in the 101 book. I ground down all the fins in the airbox around the hole so the the valve could sit flush, really roughed up the two surfaces and then mounted the valve with a generous quantity of JB Weld. It ain't going anywhere now. Car still runs like crap however. But at least that valve is in there to stay. And the seal seems very good on the valve flapper.

[rbuswell]

Originally Posted by RoninLB

Ronin:

I tried to Google this by model number and nothing came up. What company makes it? Other similar units cost from $300 to $400. I'd need to be careful that I don't spend more chasing down the leak than it would cost to replace everything.

[Jim Williams]

And don't forget the airbox itself. They can leak around the seam. Looking for the airleak with a propane bottle might save you some money in the long run, unless you just want to do preventative maintenance by replacing every possible thing that might be leaking........

The propane test has been covered on the forums. Try a search, and if you can't come up with something, post back to the thread and someone will help out.

[snbush67]

You may consider new Hose clamps for the sleeves, its good to have one or two on hand or replace them all.

+1 on the Air box as well, if the pop off was installed wrong then a backfire could have cracked it.

[RoninLB]

Originally Posted by rbuswell

Ronin:
I tried to Google this by model number and nothing came up. What company makes it? Other similar units cost from $300 to $400.

that model is from Snap-On.

similar units from OTC etc.