My Ruf SCR project
 

Two months ago my car looked like this: :)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1107980391.jpg

Now it looks like this: :eek:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1107980636.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1107980687.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1107980753.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1107980824.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1107980878.jpg

I'm doing the same thing right now. It's amazing what you find when you start undressing your baby!

Do you have a picture of your goal?

yes, What is your goal?

Holy Crap!
Hey, what size tires do you run on the front?

The best part is you found out the true condition of the car

Is that a hole in the front inner-wing (fender)?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1107985174.jpg

How'd you go about fixing that with the bumper bracket support in the way?

Yep, that's a hole in the inner front wing: :(

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1107986192.jpg

I am not going to the bodywork myself, so I'll leave the hole for the body shop :)

My front tires are Goodyear Eagle F1 215/45-17 on 8X17 Ruf Speedlines.

I'll stick to the 964-look, as I love the "clean look". I will replace the front wings, replace the rear wings (with 964), the panels and the engine lid (with 964 lid).

I've bought a new Techart biplane wing (which will replace the old Turbo spoiler), DP Motorsport mirrors, Weltmeister airbox cover, RS carpet kit, RS door panels, new steering wheel and a lot of other good stuff.

The car will be black with black wheel centers and polished lips...

what side valences and rear bumper were you using before you did all this? That rear bumper looks really sleek

Was that what you found under the undercoating, or was it already removed? I ask because the stuff Porsche puts on is so thick that sometimes it has enough structural integrity to hide some serious cancer underneath. Especially around the back of the door striker plate where the undercoating is piled up so thick that you will only know when the rust pops up on the top. Yeah, I've been there. Lucky for me, it was only under the c-pillar on the driver's side. The undercoating looked perfectly good, but low and behold, the underside looked much worse. Factory undercoating loves to trap moisture that gets into the blemishes or cracks. I no longer like the stuff. I removed it, painted it with epoxy primer, and later the same color as the exterior. I'd rather touch up chipped paint instead of trying to guess what's under the PVC. No undercoating for me.

Uha rusten i dørpanelet er typisk. All I can say is good luck, been there done that ;)

It's a long dark road, ask me how I know :rolleyes: Porsches DO rust, at least if you live in Northern Europe.

You don't need to live in Northern Europe to see the stuff that never sleeps. Try "sunny" Florida. Chances are that a "sunshine state" 911 has spent some time at the beach, inside the garage of some saltfront home, seen 80% or higher humidity just about every day of it's life, or at some time or another was driven through two-foot deep water.

The bumpers and side valances are from the German Porsche tuner Folger. Here you have a picture of the front bumper:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1108020786.jpg

What you see on the pictures, is what I found after removing the thick undercoating. Before I removed it, it was almost impossible to see how much rust was trapped underneath....I haven't decided yet whether I wan't undercoating or not after I finish my project...In Northern Europe it rains VERY often!

Mikkel: Wasn't it Michael Møller, who did your bodywork?

I knew it. That is the thing about that thick PVC undercoating. It is so thick that it is almost impossible to see the effects of trapped water. This is why I prefer to use some really tough paint instead. Paint shows bubbles when bad and since one can see the problems early, things never get out of hand. The way I look at it, a thick undercoating like Porsche, Audi, Mercedes and BMW uses, is probably the best compromise for the usual owner who never looks underneath his or her car. But for people who do check things out underneath, a good epoxy aircraft primer (the green stuff), Wurth Rust Guard Black, POR 15 (same stuff), along with the color of the car on top for beauty, is probably the best way to go. And for extra protection, a good dose of Boeshield lube on top helps. Besides being one hell of a lubricant that sticks and lasts better than most, it is good enough for Boeing to use for corrosion protection on exposed metal.

Mikael, you got a lot of work ahead of you. I know it sucks. But on the bright side, a lot of those panels are available. As far as using undercoating or not, keep in mind that undercoating can always be added later. Except for maybe a couple of chips that might have to be taken care of. No big deal though. But by now you know how hard it is to remove the factory undercoating if the metal underneath is not rusty. So if you undercoat, you know it will be time consuming to remove if you change your mind later.

Again, I have been there. But only on a tiny spot. But it pissed me off enough that I decided to remove all of it off of my fendewerwells. I just have the floorpan left to go. Loud, yes. But if you have carpeting it isn't bad. Since your car is black already, after the repair and removal of the floorpan undercoating, just paint the entire underside with Wurth Rust Guard Black or POR 15 and be done with it. The light will fade it a bit, but no big deal. The stuff is tough as nails. I knew a Floridian who painted the whole underside of his Mini Cooper with it and never looked back.

Jeg ved bare, at ham som lavede pladearbejde for Porsche Centrum hed Michael. Om han hedder Møller til efternavn, ved jeg ikke. Jeg ved ikke engang, hvordan han ser ud?

Btw I'm going to have a rust repair performed again soon. When my car was done back in 2000 we reused the windshield rubber gasket (it looked good). THAT was stupid. Water has found its way in behind the gasket and now there's rust all the way round under the gasket :mad: :mad: :mad:

Mikkel: Det må være den samme, da Michael Møller laver pladearbejde for Porsche Centrum. Han er en rigtig flink gut, der desværre er sygemeldt pt. pga. problemer med ryggen. Det betyder desværre også, at mit projekt er udsat på ubestemt tid!!!!

Ed: Thanks for the input!!! Do you have some pictures of your car before you got rid of all the rust?

As i just told Mikkel in Danish ;) the guy I know at the body shop is having problems with his back, so he is not able to work on my car before about two months from now :(

Mikael, that's alarming to see. Any idea if your car was fully galvanized? I know that '76 was supposed to be the beginning of the completely galvanized body, but I'm wondering if some of the early cars that year might have used leftover '75 parts and were only partially galvanized?


edit: spelling

This is why I laugh when a lot of guys claim their cars are 100% rust free. It is not until you search for it that you actually find it. Ask me how I know.

Not to say they don't exist, but odds are not in ones favor with an old 911.

This story is very familar to me. That car was gorgeous, pull the paint of and see the real story. The bright side as someone mentioned is that you do really get an idea of what your sitting on.

Good luck, think long term.

David

I think there's some uncertainty in the 75-76-77 range, there was a year or two when high risk areas were galvanized but things like the roof were not. I'm sure someone here knows more detail. Lots of books say full-galvanized starts in 76 but I don't think it's true. There may also be differences between when US cars recieved certain treatments and when the RoW cars did.

Galvanizing or no galvanizing, if water gets underneath that thick undercoating, it is only a matter of time before the sacrificial anode wears out. That sacrificial anode is the zinc galvanizing. It is designed to sacrifice itself before the steel. It works like a charm. But when you consider how hard it is to dry up the moisture underneath the undercoating, you can see that it is only a matter of time before the zinc wears out. My 80 911 is galvanized. But water found its way to the bottom of the c-pillar from the screws that hold the black aluminum trim onto the bottom of the rear quarter glass. The spot I had was small. No larger than the size of cd. It was not bad at all, but I had some sheetmetal butt-welded there. The undercoating in the area peeled right off showing moisture underneath. Had I not pulled it, it would have kept on looking perfect as it always had. In fact, I only noticed since a tiny bubble popped up on the c-pillar. All this from a blemish in the undercoating mixed in with the trim attachment. Needless to say, I no longer like the trim. I would rather not have it, or close the holes the screws go into and glue the piece on. After all, the only thing worse than water getting in somewhere, is water not getting out. If I know water will come in no matter what, I do whatever I can to make it's exit as simple as possible.

For the rest of you folks reading this, do not go out and remove the undercoating for fear of what's underneath. Just keep it clean by pressure cleaning often. At least it will reveal blemishes easier than looking through a clump of dirt. And as for clumped up dirt, do yourselves a favor. Go to a good pressure cleaning do-it-yourself car wash every so often and kill all your quarters cleaning the piss out of the underside of your cars. Then reach into that lower part of the door striker plate just behind this notch in the body and get all the dirt that collects over there. Then pressure clean some more. In fact, if it's a part of the underside of the car that is hard to reach and see, clean it well. Because no ammount of undercoating of galvanizing can deal with all the moisture that dirt traps. While I also think that everyone should POR 15 the bottom of their windshield frames for protection, that can come later. I easilly spend an hour with a pressure cleaner at least once a year. The hell with waxing and detailing. In fact, there are plenty of cars that look as beautiful as Mikael's does in the first picture. But those detailed cars seldom have their owners spend time underneath where it counts much, much more. So a lot of times, those beauties can be hiding some some terminal illness underneath. My car looks like ass from the top. But underneath there isn't any collected dirt to be found anywhere. That's because I learned my lesson the hard way. Screw the paint! That's for concours whores to worry about. Worry about what's behind that panel. Behind that door striker plate. Behind that headlight bucket. Behind that oil tank.

So what are you going to do with the old aero mirrors? I am looking for a set...

Ryan: The guy I bought the DP Motorsport mirrors from, had a customer, who was looking for a pair of aero mirrors....so they are gone....

It's amazing what you find under the shiny paint...seems like there is a lot of work to do...... I don't think I will have the car ready when the Danish, Swedish and Norwegean Porsche Clubs are going for a track event in June on the old Formula1 circuit, Anderstorp, in Sweden :(

I find it rather amusing...if it weren't so devastating....that for a company that prides itself of the excellence of its engineering..that Porsche took so long to introduce the simple fix of using incredibly thin plastic sheeting ( think "milk carton" plastic) to form a smooth inner fender contour...so there wouldn't be all these nooks and crannies for smutz to gather. Jeez.....if I look under my 85 and see the right/rear oil thermostat area...the rear light buckets....the LF water reservoir, etc....

....all these areas are places where it just *loves* to collect.....

...all avoided with $5 worth of cheezy plastic.....

( thank you Porsche for galvanizing but you only went 95% of the way)

Wil

You have experience here ed? Not sure you could drive a Porsche through two foot water - not even something I'd try with my truck... I'm asking cause you are describing me - and I have never had a spot of rust on the two Porsche's I've owned...

So true. Galvanizing can only do so much (see my website). Just about every rusty 911 I've seen has it in the same areas. Door slam panels, top of rear fenders, front fenders, top of inner fenders and on that spot where Mikael has that horrible hole. Good luck with the work Mikael and keep us up to date.

Jeez, that's bad news Mikkel. But I remember reading in 911 & Porsche World or GT that anything less than a full-on restoration on a rusty car is going to be a rolling project with the work happening every 5(+-) or so years.

I'll keep you updated!

Ps. Just received my package from Pelican with RS carpet kit and Weltmeister airbox cover....it looks great!

Glasgow

It was a full restoration...Only I were cheap and reused the rubber gasket. Stupid little detail. Now it will cost me....http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat5.gif

Update my Ruf SCR project
 

A little progress has been made. Rear wings/panels are cut off:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1131191658.jpg

I hope to get the car back from the body shop this year, so I can put it all back together before spring. I took these pictures on Wednesday:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1131191747.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1131191805.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1131191850.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1131192125.jpg

WOW :eek: This looks expensive! Keep us up to date!

Yep, it's going to get pretty expensive, but I wan't to keep my car for many years, so I think it's worth it :) I am replacing the front wings and the front panel with new parts as well.

I have also decided to replace the roof to get rid of the sunroof, and the rain gutters are cutted as well:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1131296427.jpg

That last pic of your car on the lift looks like your rear lift point is supported by a thin square of steel up on end...maybe just the shot, but looks scary.

We have lifts like that at my shop. It's a sturdy piece of steel about an inch or more thick that flips up to accomodate cars/truck with various frame/clearance issues. We use thos to hold up fullsize GM dually trucks :D

New updated pics:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1141243437.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1141243559.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1141243629.jpg

What do you think?

Looks great! thanks for the perseverence, and for keeping us in the loop!

What he said!!! That was one helluva project to stick with!

Looking good Mikael - keep up the good work :)

I like what you have done with the RUF rims - I was considering doing something similar like that as well.

damn NICE job man.. really that thing looks so NICE

Awesome progress!! :D

I have a question, it seems that you went with the 964 rear quarters and side molding. Is this true so you can use the 964 side skirts? Are you cutting a hole to r&r the rear TB? According to one of the pics, it doesn't seem like you'll clear:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1141256648.jpg

What I do think is that it's nonsense for you to call it a RUF anything. Alois would gag.

Never really cared for things that promise more than they can deliver--I like anything that delivers more than it promises.

Bil versionen af "tomme toender buldrer mest," ikke sandt? (Car version of saying "empty barrells make the most noise")

Schubee: Yes it's 964 rear quarters and side molding. My mechanic says, that the rear TB's can come off, as it is now :)

Kristian: Actually Ruf made this engine from an 911SC-engine to a 3.2SS and called it SCR. Yes, it is the weakest 911-engine Ruf made, but it is a Ruf. For more info check this thread:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/189443-details-ruf-scr.html?highlight=ruf+scr