My Nuts are Leaking! Mobile 1 Sux! - Page 2

CarreraS2 · 03-20-2005, 06:46 AM

I agree with KLR.

What does "There is a pre-existing condition (as stated by you) that has been made more apparent by synthetic oil-that's all" even mean?!? Is that like cancer being a pre-existing condition only made more apparent by cigarettes? Talk about manufacturer double-speak. Sheesh.

The fact is, the car didn't leak, or only leaked a little, before putting Mobil 1 in. After putting it in, the car leaked a lot. Is the owner supposed to get some comfort from the above double-speak?!? Does telling that to the car stain the driveway less?

Does it make the wife or neigbors happier? "Oh, don't worry about those stains, they are a pre-existing condition that is only being made more apparent, that's all."

I think Mobil 1 is a good oil, and I use it in my modern cars. I have tried using it in a couple of my old air cooled Porsches, though, and it DEFINATELY resulted in new leaks and worsening of old ones.

beepbeep · 03-20-2005, 06:50 AM

Well synthetics might have higher viscosity at certain temperatures compared to dino oil which would make it seep trough already present cracks easier.

It's "more slippery" but I'll rather have minor leaks than coked turbo bearings ;-)

On the bright side, you just "flushed" the engine with good oil...that's a good thing!

Oldporsche · 03-20-2005, 07:02 AM

Wow tough crowd is right.

I just have several thoughts about this situation.

1. There was no Mobil 1 when turbos (930's) were introduced. Thus we used dino oil with turbo's.

2. Initial use of synthetic oils in motors caused a lot of gaskets to shrink. Stabilizers were added to the synthetics to reduce that effect.

3. I've seen some new washers used on these motors that have a larger sealing area.

David Duffield

GaryR · GaryR's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by RarlyL8

A routine valve adjustment left this undesirable side affect when the P-mechanic used Mobile 1 instead of the Penzoil 10W40 I told him to use. I had to waste $100 worth of oil and filters to put it back with the correct, less leak prone, dino. I'll also have to change the oil at least two more times to get all that expensive leak creating crap outta my oil cooler.

So here's the question: Why are my nuts leaking (besides the fact that I've been married for waaaaay too long)? Will replacing these nylon nuts cure the problem now that the oil has been switched back?

All I will add is that if I had my valves adjusted and the mechanic couldn't :

A. Folow the oil instructions you gave
B. Properly reinstall the valve covers

I certainly wouldn't think that this person adjusted the valves correctly either!!

JMO of course..

patkeefe · 03-20-2005, 08:50 AM

The girlfriend once had her oil changed by a local mechanic on her 924s during NY State Inspection. I didn't know this at the time. Later that week, the car started overheating...
Net result was, new oil cooler seals, the rod bearings were washed, lots of bad things, and lots of cash and headaches.

Big coincidence, huh?

My theory is this: Your unit was built at the factory with a certain clearance tolerance. If the internals were at the low end of the tolerance range, synthetics will work. If you were at the high end, you will rue the day you used synthetics.

randywebb · 03-20-2005, 11:07 AM

OK, let's get down to what to do....

1. put on new nylok nuts & tighten carefully - drive a while and see what happens
- if leaks persist, decide if the value of a better oil is worth the hassle, mess, and pollution

2. drain into clean pan; and change the gaskets and surface the covers on sandpaper over some glass
- repeat the assessment

3. change back to dino oil

SLO-BOB · 01:57 PM

I guess I didn't do a good job of making my point. Allow me to clarify.

#1-Not at all meant as criticism to RarlyL8. Just an analogy that apparently came off as snotty. Not meant that way.

#2-The mechanic should have done as he was instructed and used Dino-I agree. I wouldn't use dino on that car, but that's besides the point.

#3-and my main point. There is something else wrong here. Just adding synthetic isn't going to have your valve covers leaking through the bolts. Like I said-I wasn't trying to criticise. I feel RarlyL8 got bad service and this situation needs to be corrected by the mechanic beyond swapping fluids.

#4-Just because it wasn't available then doesn't make it wrong now. Should I stick to vintage rubber because I drive a 77? Likewise, I wouldn't run dino in a turbo. I'll bet failure rates were higher then than they are now, but that IS a tired line AND debate.

#5-This is what "pre-existing"means to me in this case. The problem was already there if it was leaking already-even if a little. The syn swap merely made it more apparent. It wasn't meant to console or be double speak. It was advice to fix the "root" problem, not chase phantoms and waste time. If you don't want syn-fine. I could care less. But my concern was that he would take back the car and get an oil change and still have a problem.

Final-Take the car back and get new gaskets and oil installed. While I'm not buying into the "syn shrinks" thing, I would use it on the shop and make sure I get new valve cover gaskets.

Good luck.

KLR · 03-20-2005, 03:14 PM

1. If I understand Sebring77's response ("and speaking of tired lines and even wive's tales.....") to my comment "once you've opened the spigot, it'll just keep leaking" to mean that he DOES think that seeps that turned to "gushers" will improve once switching back to dino, let me assure ANY noobie considering this switch that the leaks will frequently persist at their new, troubling pace. I've got the bill to prove it, having learned the hard way. Many others have had the same experience. Your wallet, your choice if you're thinking about switching your older car. It works out for some. Mine had almost all new seals and seemed like a great candidate for it.

2. "Advice to fix the 'root' problem, not chase phantoms and waste time" is truly silly, as if the myriad of minor seeps that add up to one drop a day is worth fixing for thousands of dollars. Minor seeps that don't make a mess and smoke on the exhaust do not necessitate urgent action. If switching to synthetic changes that, it's hard to imagine it being worth the benefit. Speaking of chasing phantoms and wasting time, when was the last time any of us actually had an oil related break down in one of our street driven cars? There's no question that synthetics are better, but put it in perspective.

randywebb · 03-20-2005, 03:25 PM

We seem to have lost track of Rarly's problem here...

Jeff Alton · 03-20-2005, 04:17 PM

Did your mechanic actually use new gaskets, that is where the leak is. The nut does not seal anything, it holds the cover tight against the gasket. Oil is getting by the gasket and leaking down the stud.

Jeff

geof33 · 03-20-2005, 04:33 PM

Not an oil issue. The Mobil 1 thing is a tired and dead subject... The reality is the valve covers are no longer flat. They need a resurface. Very easy and simple. Eagleone has it dead on.

My car, 110,000 miles has no leaks at all after I did my valves and resurfaced the covers and running M1. It's a beautiful thing.

Torqueing the nuts correctly is absolutely neccessary. If you resurface them you will be suprised to find out just how "high" the nut areas are compaired to the rest of the sealing surface.

SLO-BOB · 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by KLR
2. "Advice to fix the 'root' problem, not chase phantoms and waste time" is truly silly,

Your just not getting it. Read Geof33 and Eagledriver's posts. How is what I'm saying different from their advice? Yet you continue to attack only my statements. I don't know what else to say to make myself more clear on the subject. There's some good advice posted above on how to solve his problem. I'e. gasket check, proper torque, check flatness of the valve covers, etc. All things I agree with and recommend. He needs more than an oil change to solve his problem-period.

PS. Mobil 1 will NOT shrink the correct, green, valve cover gasket. Furtheremore, the off topic issue re: syns vs. dino is not so much the motor, as the turbo. There's tons of data on this topic. Nuff said.

pwd72s · 05:13 PM

Rarly? If your wrench uses air to tighten the cover nuts, dump him. Many have gone to the turbo valve covers because they stay flatter than the earlier covers. I'm still running original magnesium covers...probably because the nuts have been properly torqued with every valve setting...or at least most every one.

Also, synthetics have proven themselves, especially in Turbos because of less chance to "coke" the turbo itself.

RarlyL8 · RarlyL8's Garage

You fellas take your oil drips serious 'round here.

I understand the dynamics of all points made.
- The original oil drip was most likely due to a bad valve cover.
- Mobile1 has surface tension and lubricating properties that exaserbate leaks. This is why I did not previously use it.
- Mobile1 is great for turbos. Use it if you can.
- Dino oil will work just fine for street turbos is you change it often.
- Fast cars do cause speeding tickets. I've never gotten one in my wifes' Volvo wagon.

Bottom line? Now I am forced to deal with a problem that was not previously significant. My car stinks like he!l due to the oil dropping on the heat exchanger and will splatter up on the bumper if I don't keep it cleaned up underneath.

RoninLB · 03-20-2005, 06:44 PM

anybody have any jokes?

pwd72s · 03-20-2005, 06:50 PM

A grasshopper walked into a bar.
The bartender said: "I make a drink named after you."
The Grasshopper said: "You have a drink named Irving???"

RoninLB · 03-20-2005, 06:56 PM

Victoria's Secret and Smith &Wesson will merge under the new name:

Titty Titty Bang Bang

kqw · 07:30 PM

The bear and the rabbit were in the woods taking a Sh&^t.

The bear leans over and asks the rabbit...Do you have a problem with your Sh^%T sticking to your fur?

The rabbit replied, "NO, never"...

The bear then reached over and wiped his A$$ with the rabbit....

Joe Bob · Joe Bob's Garage

Get a rope fer that numbnutz.....

RoninLB · 03-20-2005, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by MartiniRacer

Dino oil in a Turbo Engine ? Never heard that one before i must say. How many miles on the Turbo ?

was a routine to r&r because of seals with dino engines.. The burnt oil on the shaft was a prob.

The high hp big rig sand movers that'd boogie on the LIE in NY like taxi drivers would toast them much earlier than the interstate rigs. A 450hp rig is a high exhaust heat screamer. More hp usually means more exhaust heat. So even engines designed for turbos had maintence issues.