spark plugs

[911FL]

I know to some of you veterens this sounds pretty lame, but I am about to receive new spark plugs/cap/rotor from our sponsor here and although I feel like I have done alot to my car already (oil changes, tranny fluid changes, installed OEM short shift kit, adjusted parking brakes, charged AC, etc) I am a bit apprehensive of changing the sparkplugs!

I understand I will have to remove the AC compressor and heater tubes on the left side to even get to them. Then I 've read horror stories of how difficult they are to remove and the possibility of cross-threading is real. I'm even having a hard time pulling the stinking wires off the cap! Good grief, I've done this a thousand times on Hondas, Olsmobiles, and BMWs and I have NEVER had an anxiety attack like this before. Am I blowing this way out of proportion or not? You know, I have less fear of dropping the engine in the near future than I do this. I know, I'm a weany, but there you go...

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

[Por_sha911]

OK. Take a deep breath. Its going to be alright. Removing the compressor is not a big deal since you aren't opening up the system. Just unbolt it and lay it to the side. Taking the heater tube off is nothing more than an extra step to get to the driver's side. Take your time, and remember not to force anything. If you get resistance when putting the new plugs in just stop, back it out, check your threads, and start again. Using the factory spark plug tool takes 90% of the hassles away. The wires take a little time but there's no great skill needed. Just patience getting to all the looms and getting the new wires over the fan shroud. Do you have the 101 Projects book? If not, get it. It helps with stuff like this.

[Zeke]

Don't get too worked up. It's not the easiest, but it will be a lot easier the 2nd time once you do it. AFA "If you get resistance when putting the new plugs in just stop, back it out, check your threads, and start again...." , I wouldn't go that far only to find out you've started a cross thread. They either screw in by hand freely or they don't. If they don't, find out why.

Some have used a short stick with a very short poece of rubber hose slid over the end. The hose needs to be a diameter that will hold the plug firmly and square to the hole (in the head). You will find that a very handy tool for starting the plug in the hole. You should get a couple of complete turns with little resistance before putting a wrench to the plug. It's not easy to get a torque wrench down there either, but your Honda, etc., experience will tell you how much to tighten. Just enough to partially crush the new washer.

Remember that the plugs are not square to the case. They angle forward about 10* on one side and rearward on the other. So, sthe plug hole is not directly below the access hole. Get an inspection mirror on a telescoping handle like a big dentist's mirror and check everything out as you go. Don't drop the plug down in there, but be prepared to use some fishing tools if you do. Hence, the mirror.

[911FL]

I feel a bit better about this, but still sounds tedious. I plan on taking my sweeeet time on pulling this off. Like I said, I actually feel better about more difficult (to some) projects like the valve adjust I have planned in the not so near future amongst orthers. I have had experience with cross-threaded plugs and it wasn't pretty, using a heli-coil, etc. A real PITA. Thanks Zeke for the "angled" heads-up. I do have the Bentley AND the 101 Projects, and plan on using the factory plug tool, and neither make this clear - could be a bitter bullet dodged. So am I clear that torqueing may not be possible for all six plugs?

And, oh yeah, as always, thank you so much. Support is greatly appreciated.

[Steve87-911]

I'll add that I don't remove the A/C compressor when I change plugs. # 6 is the hardest reach but if your arm isn't too wide, not a big prob. And like said above, the heater tube is cake. One, maybe two screws and a slight yank.

Best tip: Use the factory plug tool like the good advice above suggests.

[gerard vaglio]

It's not hard to do it correctly, just have to take your time and be thoughtful. Use the spark plug tool that came with the car.

When you insert the new plug use only your fingers to tighten, you'll feel the plug find the threads. Keep turning the plug, by hand, untill you feel it's seating. Once the plug seats, snug it about one quarter turn with a tool.

Using your fingers makes it hard to cross thread because you'll feel if it's not right.

Some people put just a little anti sieze on the threads of the new plug to make them easier to remove next time.

If your not in a hurry it will go just fine. Have fun.

[ozz]

Completely agree with Gerard and the others - use the facotry tool if you have it. If you don't have it - find one. I've used various plug sockets and extensions and the factory tool is by far the easist to use. It will hold the new plug in the socket and allow you to thread the plug in with your fingers and get comfortable with the feel and know that you aren't cross threading.

[RickM]

I also leave the compressor in place when changing plugs. Just take your time.

[magic930]

I thought this would be difficult too but... as long as you can reach the plug wires to pull them off the plugs, then using the Porsche spark plug tool changing plugs takes less than ten minutes. You don't need to remove the compressor. Make sure the rubber piece in the spark plug tool is in good shape so that it cannot pull out, if it is loose then pull it out and glue it in with some silicone caulk.

[911FL]

I expect the parts to arrive today or tommorrow and will let you know how it goes. I'll try without compressor removal first and see if I can reach them all. Will removing the air filter and housing help? I took out the factory tool last night and got familiar with it and it looks like it should work great. Thanks to all for the support.

[jyl]

No need to remove airbox. The plugs are not that hard to reach, I have unfortunately gotten rather familiar with mine lately.

[jstobo]

A hint if you do not have the factory tool. Wrap some duct tape around the spark plug socket and your extension. This will keep the extension from separating from the socket if the socket gets stuck too tight on the plug. You do not want to drop the socket in the deep well. Good Luck.

Jim

[911FL]

Well, I did it. This has been the single biggest improvement in the drivability of my car since I bought it. And it was much easier than I expected, actually. A big tip to fellow Carrera owners: DO remove the AC compressor - it's only the three bolts on top and this precludes having to readjust the belt tension, and DO remove the air filter housing. Both of these steps took less than two minutes and the difference is enormous. I could practically sit in the engine compartment on that side. In fact, the right side turned out to be easier than the left, simply by virtue of less wiring to deal with. The second biggest tip is one that was suggested by all above - use the factory plug tool. This is the greatest spark plug tool I have ever used, and would work on any car, not just 911s. I was nervous as well about the condition of the plugs and they all turned out great - not bad for 100k miles. The interesting thing I found is the PO used electrical tape around each plug - am I missing something here or was this done to make the plugs fit more snugly in the socket? Also notice the tip of the plug in the middle on the left. The cables were loose (not even clicked onto plugs) for both cylinders 1 and 2. I just thought this was how the car was supposed to drive. Huge difference now. Can barely tell the engine is running at idle. Another tip - for replacing the distributor cap and rotor, remove the screw that holds the cables on the left side of the cap. This makes it much easier to maneuver the new cap in place for the cable exchange. Hope this helps anyone in the future. Thanks to all the above for the support and suggestions. Time for a beer...

[gerard vaglio]

Nice going, happy to see you post your positive results.

It now takes me 20 minutes to change my plugs. Since the copper plugs are cheap I no longer give it a second thought.

Looks like it will be the same for you now.

Judging from the plugs you removed your engine seems to be healthy, so, more good news.

[stlrj]

Any reason for not changing the ignition wires too?

[911FL]

Finances mostly. Gonna do that on the next go around in a month or so. I'm currently on a grad student's budget (Ph.D.) so do things as I can. The difference without the wires is pretty dramatic as is, so look forward to the Clewetts eventually.

[wswilburn]

After installing the last plug, make sure the rubber insert is still in the spark plug wrench, not on the last plug you installed. I've, uh, heard it can be very difficult to get it off the plug after several months of baking.