RSR Clone Project - Expert Electrical Help Needed

[tom1394racing]

I am in the process of rewiring my '73.5 to RSR Clone project and am having a difficult time getting the lights and switches to operate properly. The symptons are too numerous to detail at this point. I'm hoping that some of you who've been down this road before can answer some simple questions so that I can debug the problems myself.

I have installed all the wiring with the exception of the engine harness. I've also installed all the lights (except the headlights) and the instruments. I'm deleting the clock, rear defroster, interior lights. I'm using the wiring diagrams from this website along with my disassembly photos to guide me and a 13.8 DCV/3 amp power supply to test the system. I'm 90% sure of the connections but the remaining 10% is killing me.

Some photos


[img]
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads5/P40700221113353760.jpg[/img]

My questions are:

1. Wiring diagram error? - #30 in the wiring diagram legend is identified as the wiper/washer switch but the diagrams in part 1 and part 2 show two different components labelled as #30.

Part 1

Part 2


I think that #30 is the T/S switch on part 1 and it is the wiper/washer on part 2. Is this correct?

2. Wiring diagram wire truncations - There are several places on the wiring diagram where wires appear to truncate without a connection to any device. For example, the black wire and the brown/white wire from the T/S multipin connector show no connection on the wiring diagram part 1.





There is also a green wire shown next to the oil temp/press gage that shows no connection on the wiring diagram. I have not connected either of these three wires. Is this correct?

3. The electrical diagram part 1 also shows a yellow wire coming off the T/S pin 56b that truncates and the yellow wire from the T/S multi pin goes to terminal 56 on the headlight switch. My disassembly photos show the yellow wire from the multi pin connected to the yellow wire from the T/S pin 56b. which is correct?


I also have a unidentified wire in one of my disassembly photos connected to terminal 56 on the headlight switch.


I think it may be the radio. Can anyone identify it?

I apologize for the detailed questions but this is probably the only place where the experts who can answer these types of questions hang out. Any help will be appreciated.

[tom1394racing]

Can anyone help????

[Britain Smith]

I have just completed rewiring my '69 a couple of months ago, but you have so many questions there. Maybe you could give me a call when I am in front of the wiring diagram and I could help you out.

-Britain

[randywebb]

truncations -- usually means the wires just stop (i.e. part of wiring harness not connected) - things like rear for lamp etc.

two different components labelled as #30 -- Since this is on two sep. pages... might be different components. They split the circuits for that year, and there may be a different legend for one vs. the other. Be sure to check both legends.

Also, note the wierd way they did the diagram for the fuses - which are not numbered on the diagram...

Beautiful car.

Can you post a pic of the other side of the horn relay holder -- where it plugs in or attaches to the metal frame?

[304065]

1. Yes, it's the turn signal stalk (the one with l/r) on part one, and the washer stalk (the one with 0-1-2) on the part two.

2. Yes, those wires coming from the six-pin round connector end in spade tabs, covered in rubber sheaths, if they even exist at all. You may note that they aren't connected to anything on the other side of the six-pin connector.

2a. That solid green is for the sportomatic only.

3. (the biggie) This requires some analysis of what actually happens with the switches.

Relays
-------

85 Ground
86 Switched +12v (control circuit for relay)
30 +12v from battery (high current)
87 NO
87a NC

I. Lights off. Pull left stalk to flash. Contact made in switch between wire 30 (12v hot, red/white) and wire 56a (high beam). Current flows to relay terminal 30, across relay wiper to normally closed contact 87a, through white wire to fuse panel, out through two white wires to high-beam lamps and also through blue/white wire to high beam blue bulb in base of tachometer. High beams blink.

II. Parking Lights on. Pull switch out one notch. Terminal 30 connected through wiper (horzontal bar) to terminal 57, green/white. Current flows through green/white to relay terminal 86, energizing relay, and also to green lights indicator on speedometer.

III. Low beams on. Pull switch out two notches. Terminal 57 disconnected, green light goes out. Terminal 56 connected to terminal 30. Current flows through yellow wire, low beams illuminate.

IV. Push switch forward for high beams. Terminal 56a in switch in makes contact with black/white wire which runs to light switch, same terminal as yellow wire to relay and low beams. Since low beams are on, current flows to terminal 56a in switch, out through white wire to high beams. See above.

The only difference between connecthing the yellow and black/white is where they connect, either on the back of the light switch, or in the turn signal switch. My thought is the vestigial yellow from the switch was originally intended for driving lamps?

[tom1394racing]

John Cramer...You're the man!!!

Thanks for taking the time to analyze my question. Your explanation about the yellow wire makes sense. I also really appreciate your current flow analysis. It will help me to better understand my wiring diagram and hopefully to get my problems corrected. I'll keep you posted on my progress.

[tom1394racing]

OK...I'm getting closer thanks to John Cramer's help. John I hope you're listening.

I decided to follow John's sequence in his post above to diagnose my problem.

I. Lights off pull stalk to flash... Everything checks out OK as described by John.

II. Parking lights on...I get the instrument lights and the green lights indicator on the speedo to iluminate. The relay clicks but no parking lights. I know the parking lights work because the emergency flasher system works. So why no parking lights when the light switch knob is pulled one click? The wiring diagram seems to indicate that energizing the relay would not cause the parking lights to iluminate but rather completes the circuit to the low beams. Anyway, I pulled the relay to test it to see which terminals receive voltage when the relay is energized. I applied the ground wire from my DC power supply to term 85 on the relay and the hot wire to term 30 and confirmed that terminal 87a showed 12V. I then added a hot wire from the power supply to terminal 86, the relay clicked and energized terminal 87. I conclude that the relay is OK.

Any suggestions on where to look to determine why my parking lights don't iluminate when the headlight switch is pulled one notch?

[dotorg]

Do you know the headlight switch is good?

Always check things like that first, as its much faster than tracing wires all over the place.

[304065]

Hmm, I'm not actually certain they SHOULD go on, it was my distant recollection from doing the same work on my '88. I'll check the '71 and the '66 tomorrow for you.

[tom1394racing]

I removed the headlight switch and check it. It fuctions properly.

I going to check the connections and functionaality of the T/S switch next.

Hey Tom,
The only thing I can add is when I removed the wiring out of my car I pulled it out as one unit. I found that I put the body plugs in the wrong way and when I put the blinkers on the wipers went on. I switched plugs around and everything seems to work alright.

[tom1394racing]

Thanks Joe....I've already made that mistake and corrected it.