Doing the clutch, what else should I do while I'm in there??

radcon · radcon's Garage

After putting it off for a couple years, it looks like I can't delay any longer. I need to replace my clutch and will probably be doing it by myself. I have jackstands, ATV hoist for the engine drop, most hand tools, etc. but what special tools will I need? I have done a partial drop before and have a fair amount of mechanical experience, so I'm not scared with the actual drop but want to know in advance if there's any special tools required. And this leads to the question: What else should I replace while the engine is out? I'm planning on disc, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, but what else? I use my car for a daily driver, but have the use of a friend's car for a week, so I can't have it torn apart for longer than that.

silverc4s · silverc4s's Garage

You should make sure your flywheel is in spec. Also check the rear crank seal for leaks.
AFAIK, the only special tools might be the oil line wrenches. Be careful not to overstress anything around the oil cooler, etc.. when loosening these lines.

Jeremy Cottrell · 05-14-2005, 04:27 PM

Change the red oil pressure switch, thermostat o-ring and the breather hose at the rear of the engine. They are cheap and easy when the engine is out. If they start leaking while the engine is in the car, they are very hard to get to. Some guys pull the motor just to do them.

Jeremy Cottrell · 05-14-2005, 04:30 PM

Also take a good look at your engine sound insulation pad. Replace it too while the engine is out. And take a careful look at the clutch actuation shaft in the transmissin. Make sure it meves freely and lube it so your clutch operation is nice and smooth. Inspect the throw out beairing guide tube on the end of the transmission, replace it if it has deep grooves in it.

MotoSook · 05-14-2005, 04:49 PM

I'd consider doing the rear crank seal and tranny input seal too. It's not critical as you don't need to do an engine drop to get to them, but I'd do the front cranks seal and intermediate shaft cover o-ring.

You can get the crank seals in w/o speacial tools, but be careful you don't rip the seal. There is a seal install tool that works like a charm...if you've not heard of the tool run a search. They are expensive, but you might be able to borrow it from someone.

Hi Jeremy!

Jeremy Cottrell · 05-14-2005, 04:51 PM

Hi Souk, how's it going? Radcon has come to the right place, the Pelicans will guide him. Follow the Pelican Radcon!

MotoSook · 05-14-2005, 05:17 PM

Doing alright Jeremy..busy and tired...but that's a good thing. Haven't seen you post much lately...things must be good--busy?

As for the topic...I'd get the flywheel resurfaced too. Most machine shops will be able to do it with a one day turn around. It'll be about 1 hour of machine shop charge...40-60 dollars. On the SC you could reuse the flywheel bolts, but they are not terribly expensive, so I'd consider that too. The pilot bearing too.

Did someone already mention the crankcase breather gasket...

TIghten the oil pressure sender block/sender and temp sensor.

Most of it is not critical, but it makes it so much easier with the drivetrain out.

It could end up being a long list...and we haven't even start in on the CIS stuff that can be easily accessed while the engine is out. That would deserve its own thread....some of it was discussed I'm sure.

efhughes3 · efhughes3's Garage

A good cleaning....new plugs, valve adjust, clutch cable, new motor mounts, fuel filter, rebuild starter & alternator, in addition to the stuff mentioned above. All stuff I did with my clutch recently.

David · David's Garage

If you're going to change the clutch cable, you might as well put in bronze pedal bushings.