Another clear coat question, well 2

[Argeo]

Here goes, hopefully I wasn't black balled for my Excellence thread.

Someone said to do one square foot at a time when block sanding the clear coat which I have been doing. I was wondering, when I get a whole panal done, should I compound then or wait until the whole car is done or does it matter. I would like to compound when I finish each panal just so I can sign off on it but is there some reason I shouldn't.

Anyone use a airbrush to touch up small imperfections. Not sure what happened but when I was painting I somehow got a nickel size chip or flake that I noticed after I cleared. Anyways, I got the flake out but it obviously needs to be repainted and cleared again. I am thinking an air brush would be better than my air gun since it is more precise. Any reason I shouldn't.

Oh, I should mention that I was able to get my runs out rather easy. I did as told and used a block and 600 grit paper. When the drip was about gone, I switched to 1500. Worked great.

I have decided to not go any higher than 1500 on the whole car as recommended by my friend who does it for a living as many of you do. Hey, if i can save a buck, that works for me. I must say it is a bit nerve racking seeing the shine vanish after it is wet sanded. Does wetting show what it should look like after it is compounded or will it be different?

Hey, that is three questions. My bad.

David

[widebody911]

Wait until you get all the sanding done, before you compound. There's a couple reasons. For one, you're going to get the schmeg from the two processes mixed up in each other, secondly, the paint is still drying, and hence shrinking. If you compound before it's done shrinking, you'll see the scratches later.

You should try doing a section with #2000, even #2500, to see what it looks like. That might change your mind. Even on my VW bus, the lowest I would go was #2000. Your friend stops @ 1500 to save a little money, which means more profit. What's your margin on this job again? In for a sheep, in for a lamb - you should at least go to #2000.

[Argeo]

Thanks,

I haven't got the 1000 yet. I'll try the 2000 and see what it looks like.

Thanks,

David

[Shaun @ Tru6]

David, when we did my car, we did 600 first, washed it, 1500, washed it, 2000, washed it, compounded, washed it. Took 3 days.

It used to be a nice car.

[dweymer]

I refuse to answer any more questions until we can see pics!!

Kidding...
What Thom said, and it takes a few days for the paint to dry enough for compound. If you sanded with 1500, why go back to 1000? An airbrush lays down a much finer/thinner coat, but for solid colors(which you did right?) should work, just do a few coats.

[Argeo]

Hey Shaun, you'll be back for sure. Don't sweat it. it is times like this that you'll look back and smile about how you made everything right. Life would be rather boring without the challenges right.

Talk to you later,

David

Dwmeyer, I really wish I had a digital which of course we are talking about getting one now. I do have a bunch of pictures on my PC now but for some reason I can't get them to post here. I did take the pictures with a disposable Kodak camera. Before I did this, I was able to download pictures. After I loaded the software which I have deleted since, I can't post to Pelican. If you really want to see, send me a PM and I will email. All body work shots?

David

[dweymer]

David,
I like to see others progress, it helps motivate me; and keep me excited about my project(still collecting parts). Emailing them isn't neccesary though.

Don

[Shaun @ Tru6]

David's car in the bodywork stage.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

more

[RoninLB]

maybe use a touch-up gun instead of an airbrush.

buy both.

I always do edges with a few coats of the touch up gun first.

[dweymer]

Thanks Shaun, looks good so far.

Don