Pelican Parts Forums - Reconstructing Constant Velocity (CV) Joints

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- - Reconstructing Constant Velocity (CV) Joints (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/222537-reconstructing-constant-velocity-cv-joints.html)

Hi Randy,

Did the engine mounting replacement finally fix the noise?

Thanks - Steve.

Quote:

Originally Posted by christiandk (Post 8006314)

If you have the ones with the fat flanges and the rubber is not completely cracked..............Use the hours and kilometres of paper towel to restore it! And after it is clean use glycerine.

On my old cars I threw the old boots out because it IS messy to restore....but well worth it. The new ones are trash compared to the originals.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1397073485.jpg

Am I right in thinking that the CV joint plates shown in the picture above do not require these toothed washers and plates as there is no thin tin cover? My SC ones are like this and have no washers. I actually had to grind two of the heads off to get them apart as they were so tight so I don't think I have a bolt loostening issue!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hendog (Post 8026383)

I too re-used the old boots. My old boots were still in excellent condition. I found the new ones were NOT as pliable as the old ones; I have them stashed away in my parts bin.

I have those think boots too, original 37 years old with 140k miles on them! I think they are the key to keeping the bolts tight, I have no washers or thread locker at all. Never re-torqued them after removal.

Btw, may new boots are of a plastic material rather than rubber, they are supposed to be tougher and more durable than rubber. I have my doubts....

So a friend and I are doing some suspension upgrades on my car - and my friend noticed that I never installed the 34mm Axle Boot Clamps.

I can't recall if this is intentional as I replaced my CV Joints about 2 years ago - but my friend is very concerned that my CVs are now corrupted.

I have put about 5k on the car - no winter driving.

I have ordered the clamps - but can't decide among various options:

1) Just put on the clamps.

2) Get a Grease Gun and Needle and inject a ton of grease.

3) Time for a rebuild (aka clean them, new bolts, etc.)

Looking for feedback / suggestions.

JCSJCS

So installed the detailed cv axles today....no shims or nothing. I bet it will be fine, but a retourqe will be done after first drive.

Those old cv boots are made for drivin' another 37 years!

This is a great thread. Just replaced both half axles in the last two days. The info in this thread contributed by many was extremely useful. For reference, with the help of my dad we managed to accomplish each side in about an hour and a half. My job consisted of removing the complete half axles and installing new(rebuilt ones).

Quick notes:
my 86 had the M10 bolts which take an 8mm allen(hex) key. They torque to 60ft/lbs
Use a 3/4 breaker and 32mm socket for axle nut, break it free with car in reverse, parking brake on and car on the ground.
Shock bolt is 22mm.

Thanks again

I just did mine, and I had a beast of a time getting the send axle back in... Until I made these out of some extra bolts. Maybe they'll be of use to someone else!http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/u...44BD18AF4B.jpg
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/u...223FAB94A3.jpg
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/u...EC641C964C.jpg

I just clamped them in my vise and cut off the tops with a sawzall, then cut the slots with the same sawzall. A quick file to remove the edges, and voilà!

Quote:

Originally Posted by intense1 (Post 8410476)

I just did mine, and I had a beast of a time getting the send axle back in... Until I made these out of some extra bolts. Maybe they'll be of use to someone else!
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/u...223FAB94A3.jpg
I just clamped them in my vise and cut off the tops with a sawzall, then cut the slots with the same sawzall. A quick file to remove the edges, and voilà!

Looks like you have the newer style thin flange boot. You need the moon-washers with those.
You would also like to have schnorr washers.

Last time I removed my drive shafts I got new screws, 5 mm longer, and Nord-lock washers. The best lock washers.

Quote:

Originally Posted by intense1 (Post 8410476)

I just did mine, and I had a beast of a time getting the send axle back in... Until I made these out of some extra bolts. Maybe they'll be of use to someone else!
I just clamped them in my vise and cut off the tops with a sawzall, then cut the slots with the same sawzall. A quick file to remove the edges, and voilà!

That's not a bad idea. I may try that next time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by emcdan (Post 2450674)

A side note that may be helpful. It is a very sloppy job to keep your new cv grease from getting on all your mating surfaces. I pre-assembled everything together without the grease. With the boot slid a few inches down the axle, I filled only the boot with grease. I then pulled the boot flange to the cv, inserted the bolts and mated to the tranny. Once everything is torqued, you can squeeze the boot to allow the grease to lubricate the cv components.

I can say that the bolts were completely free of grease when torqued.

Hey guys Im bumping this thread. I think it is the second time I have read it in the last several years.

Anyways, I have the older 930 108 mm CVs, there are no end plates just gaskets. Im trying to figure out how reassemble them to the car without getting grease on the face of the flange. I have glued the gaskets on already.

Has anybody else used the quoted method? I was thinking maybe I could fully assemple everything to the car and then Inject in on shaft side through the "small hole" by fitting a tube or needle between the shaft and the boot (before installing in board clamp).

Any easy tricks to keeping the inerface grease free?

Also RIP Grady :(

After a torn boot I replaced one joint and cleaned the others. I bought new 12.9 M10x50mm bolts from a local fastener shop and installed with new Schnorr washers from ebay and the old moonplates. I cant see the wheel side but on the transmission side flange they do not quite get to the end of the flange. They are maybe 1-2 threads in. Grady recommended Schnorr washers and bolts with 1 to 2 threads sticking out of the edge. Others have said the M10 bolts can be torqued enough that they do not loosen even with no washers, and that the 12.9 bolts are too hard for the washers to dig into anyway. Nothing to worry about? Delete the washers? Measure exactly and have some 55mm machined down accordingly? FWIW, there were no loose bolts when I removed the old ones and they had no lock-washers.

Is there a good way to check the bolts/flange on the wheel side?

Simply because, TTT.

Possible drive flange part no. error & question re early '85 w/915/68 100mm axles.

I found this info in the ever-helpful Grady Gray's post #243 in this thread... I was saddened to discover he has passed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grady Clay (Post 2393835)

Extract from Grady's post #243
Of course the real solution is to replace the 100 mm CVs with the 108 mm, six M10 screws, Schnorr washers & support plates and an end cap without sealant in the “sandwich.”

The 108 mm Turbo set-up
2 each Stub axles 930.332.232.04
2 each Lock nuts 900.910.093.02
2 each Axle assemblies, 108 mm CV 930.332.037.04
2 each Transmission axle flanges 915.332.209.12
24 each M10 socket head cap screws M10x50 900.067.123.01
12 each Support plates 911.332.191.00
24 each Schnorr washers M10 999.523.103.01

The 108 mm Carrera set-up
Stub axles not needed
2 each Lock nuts 900.910.093.02
2 each Axle assemblies, 108 mm CV with friction welded stub axles 911.332.024.14
2 each Transmission axle flanges 915.332.209.12
12 each M10 socket head cap screws M10x50 900.067.123.01
6 each Support plates 911.332.191.00
12 each Schnorr washers M10 999.523.103.01

Please don’t take these P/Ns as gospel; there are supersessions and these might not be the right parts for the conversion. Some research help would be appreciated.

Best,
Grady
End extract from post #243

Read the whole thread, wonderful info, clarifications and details, especially the greasy/clean numbers and Schnorr discussion from Grady, Jim and Mr. Ferch. Two things:

1. Fortunately Grady even suggested we check P/Ns, and I did, as I wish to do this upgrade! I believe the drive flange P/N listed is in error. The 108mm/10mm bolt Transmission axle flange P/N, for both the Turbo/M491 & Carrera options above, is 930-332-209-12, which superseded 930-332-209-05 (latter no. as per 30.01.2008 PET)

Same PET lists 915-332-209-12 as 915/68 flanges, for 100mm/8mm bolt drive shafts—we don't want those!

2. My early (Jan) 1985 Carrera has a 915/68 transmission and 100mm/8mm-bolt flanges and axles, and an OS Giken "fine spline" LSD. The LSD splines matched the original 100mm axles. After the 3.6 conversion, no bolt-loosening issues, but CV joints are wearing out like tires (replaced twice last year), so an upgrade to 108mm CVs is intended soon, with the parts Grady listed above (but with 930-332-209-12 flanges, if correct).

Are these 108mm flanges a simple swap for the 915-332-209-12 100mm flanges on the 915/68 transmission? Perhaps this is obvious, but I've looked a lot and found no specific confirmation.

Thank you!

Just finished re-reading and taking notes from this thread to guide my CV reinstall. While a number of members made great contributions here, I can't help but reflect on what a blessing Grady Clay was to all of us. Thanks Grady!

Sincerely, Robert