Sounds like the way to go. I used a similar approach when working out how to re-attach the CV joint to the wheel side. I could get one nut in but then it would not line up with the other holes. I was getting seriously annoyed.

In the end I jacked the rear arm and then they lined up.

Well, I still feel like a big fool for not thinking about this right away, but it's exactly what I'll do when I get home from work this afternoon. Thanks, Damo!

Oh, a little more to add, Thank goodness for impact wrenches!!!!!!! Seemed to take forever last night, but I'm pretty sure that without my trusty impact wrench, I'd still be trying to get that axle nut off.

I had my 1/2-inch breaker bar with the 32mm socket attached, but unfortunately had nothing to use as a cheater bar. (Gonna have to pick up a piece of pipe from Home Depot, or something, for future reference.)

Even so, using the impact seemed to take forever. It's rated for 280 Lbs of torque, so I figured the 100 Lbs of torque (I believe this is correct) specified for the axle nut should have been no problem. I figured wrong. :(

After alternating between the impact wrench and bouncing my 200 lbs on the breaker bar for well over an hour, it finally gave way...to the impact wrench. I highly recommend one of these things if you plan on doing any work on your P-car. This thing has really saved the day a few times for me. Not to mention the speed increase you get while doing some of the routine tasks, such as tire removal.

Randy

Randy,

I like to get the car up on jack stands using the torsion bar extensions for the stands and using the jack points to lift the car. Remember to chock the front tires. After removing the rear tires & wheels and putting them under the tunnel for safety, I jack one suspension up but don’t take all the weight off the jack stand. This allows you to take the load off the shock. The shock is preventing the suspension from moving farther down. You can plan ahead and put another jack stand under the suspension to keep it up.

Once the load is off the shock, you can remove the lower shock bolt. You don’t need to remove the shock, just collapse it up out of the way and wire it where it will stay up. When you go to reinstall the shock bolt, it is easiest if you can use the jack to manipulate the suspension position and find the slip-in point for the bolt.

Mark the side of the shock where it was against the trailing arm. The rubber insert at the shock bolt may have taken a set at an angle and be very difficult to reinstall the other way.

When you go cleaning in the area of the trailing arm where the outboard CV was, don’t test the integrity of the wheel bearing seals with spray cleaner. Just brush the grime to the inboard and wipe clean. When the stub axle isn’t torqued in place the preload is released on the wheel bearing and it is possible to contaminate it with spray “brake clean.”

Tomorrow I’ll try and post images and combine with my previous posts and everyone’s suggestions for a sequential set of directions for future reference.

Be very careful with loaded suspension. There is a lot of spring energy stored there. If the jack slips bad things can happen.



If you find your air impact wrench isn’t undoing something in the first few blows, add some air-motor lubricating oil to the air line. A quick free spin will get it to the impact. Of course raising the air pressure helps also.

Now might a good time to line up a large torque wrench for the reinstall.

Best,
Grady

Yep, lift up slightly on the bottom of the aluminum trailing arm while you disconnect the lower shock mount. Then you can let it down with the jack. Same when you reconnect.

large probaly means 1" drive.... be sure to have a helper there

Okay, even though I was singing the praises of my impact wrench last night, I'm still not happy. :mad:

Air Compressor is rated at 7.3 CFM at 90 psi. I've set the pressure to the line at a little above 80 psi. My impact wrench is rated at 260 ft. lbs. (which I assume is the max amount of torque it will apply under "perfect" conditions).

Out in the garage last night, it took well over an hour, almost 2 hours, to break loose the axle nut. As stated above, I believe the prescribed torque for that nut is 100 ft. lbs. Granted, I have no idea how much torque WAS applied to that nut when it was last installed.

Tonight, I'm trying to beak loose the shock absorber bolt. Not sure what kind of torque that thing is supposed to have, but I wouldn't think more than the 100 ft. lbs. as on the axle nut.

Anyway, I've got my jack under the trailing arm, just lifting up on it to relieve the weight from the shock bolt. 20 -30 minutes into it and it doesn't look as though the bolt has turned a bit.

I've tried raising the trailing arm to different heights, even to the point of bring the swing arm cover off the jack stand and then lowering it just to where the weight is on the stand. No matter where I set it, the shock bolt does not want to budge.

Am I doing something wrong with my impact wrench??? Am I expecting too much out of it? Is there a technique I'm missing? When I took the lug nuts off to remove the tires, ...zip, zip, zip...the nuts came right off. Anything else, it just doesn't seem to have the stuff.

Randy

Randy,

Always make sure the wrench is set to go the proper direction. I’ll bet the wrench is spec for 150-175 PSI.

Best,
Grady

Grady,

There's a little sticker on the wrench which specifies 90 psi, forgot to add that in my post. Right below that it says something else about "bursting" Definitely don't need that to happen to me. :)

Randy

edit: And yes, I've confirmed the direction of the wrench...several times. That wouldn't be the first bone-head move I've "accomplished" in my lifetime. ;)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1117075927.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1117075939.jpg

Randy

Am I doing something wrong with my impact wrench???
-------- who knows what's right or wrong? Allow me to say that a nice Ingersoll-Rand gun & a twin stage 80gal tank with a 3/8 hose would allow you to kick ass.

There is a thing called stiction, or something like that, which is the starting torque for an attached nut to break loose that is greatly higher that the attachment torque.

Is there a technique I'm missing? [/QUOTE]
------- If it was my situation I'd set up the breaker bar and socket, get someone strong to lean on it big time, and get a baby sledge and wack the top of the bar at the 90deg point while your bud is straining. Wack the crap out of it till it gives. The induced harmonics rattles the thread attachment. I've never done this on the rear nut, only in other similar situations. Maybe confirm that it's ok to do this?
party hearty.

Randy,

That impact wrench is too small for reliable removal of an axle nut, whether VW Beetle, or 911! I have been using 3/4" drive sockets and breaker/slide bars for over 30 years ... with a cheater bar that happens to be a jack handle [ i.e, free] ... never fails, and I usually need every inch of the five foot bar to get the job done!

An impact wrench to do the job would need to be rated at least 500 lb-ft! My weight has varied from 120 - 170 lbs, and it still needed a five mfoot multiplier every time!

The 'stiction' Ron talks about is real ... when rust and axle nuts are involved!!! The first time I tried a Craftsman 1/2" breaker bar on a VW axle nut ... sheared off like cheddar cheese -- in 1969! Got my replacement Craftsman and decided to not try that again! Found a set of $39 3/4" drive sockets and slide bar at a 'bargain' tool sale at the local Holidayy Inn ... and never had a problem with axle nuts since then!

Randy,

Thanks for keeping me on the right path! I'm not sure where I got that "100 Ft.Lbs" thought. Looked at that thread I linked to on pg. 3 of this thread and found the following:

Torque the nut to 217-253 ft/lbs for SCs and prior and install a cotter pin that fits snugly. Torque Carrera nut to 333 ft/lbs.

Also, just so it's posted here, the shock bolt is torqued to 90 Ft. Lbs.

Don't I feel stupid!!!

Guess I'll swing by my trusty Home Depot at lunch today and see what they have in the way of breaker bars. Probably pick up a few more socketss and a 5 ft. section of pipe while I'm there too.

I will get this finished....I swear I will! :mad:

RoninLB, Warren, thanks for the advice!!!

Randy

Randy,

Before you go to HD for new tools you might stop by a local pawn shop. Lots of times they have used stuff that is in excellent condition for a really good price.

Re your impact wrench, Ron's note about the air hose size is right on, but we run our impact wrench's all day long at 120 psi. Would not have made a difference in this situation (using a 1/2 inch unit on an axle nut) but that extra 20-40 psi does make a difference.

JoeA

have a helper hold the socket on & a big guy jump on the breaker bar

Yes, look for a used 3/4 or 1" one

Lot's of great advice here on this thread. I went to Home Depot and got a 9 foot section of 1.5" ID pipe. With that much leverage, the nuts just slowly came free like melting butter. Before this I beat the heck out of myself with significantly shorter lever arms. Such sweet victory.

There are a lot of curse words in the story behind the picture below... :cool:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1117151362.jpg

Needless to say, the driver side axle is off and awaiting my shipment from our host. Was hoping the stuff would be here today. If it's here for the weekend, that would be most excellent too! ;)

Leaving out the curse words...the shock bolt was being a pain, but you already knew that. Stopped at the parts store on the way home today and picked up a can of PB Blaster. Read about it a lot here but never had the occasion to use it until now.

This stuff is great. Sprayed the bolt. (The directions say "saturate") Let it set a few minutes and tapped/smacked it with a hammer to loosen stuff up. No go. :( Once again, I used the spray-smack method. Again, no joy! After the third spray-smack, I put the impact wrench in place and brap, brap...I saw movement. a few seonds later, I had the bolt in one hand and the axle in the other. Oh, almost forgot to mention that wide grin all over my face. :D

Now it's time to work the axle kits when they arrive.

Shaun, I should be picking up my "Persuader" stick tomorrow. Wasn't sure what size pipe, but if 1.5" ID is good enough for you, it's good enough for me too. ;) Thanks!

Randy

Went back out to the garage after the last post and who did I see pulling up the drive?

:D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1117154032.jpg

Parts are here, so now the "fun" begins.

Randy

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1117161258.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1117161276.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1117161290.jpg

LAMBRO 12 - 86 W - GERMANY 13 - 21
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1117161304.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1117161324.jpg

In this pic, you can see the snap ring is removed (See 2nd pic above) It's ready to go on the press and have the CV Joints pressed off so I can replace the boots.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1117161344.jpg

Randy

That's exactly what I was telling myself Randy! That, and "Grease is my friend!" ;)

Randy

I love the smell of CV grease in the morning.