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Johnathan's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
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First 911 Project, Can't remove trans drain plug

Well for my first project on my first 911, I had intended to change the transmission fluid. After getting the car warmed up and jacking it up. I come to find out I can't remove the drain plug for the transmission (915)... I have the right 17mm hex key, but no matter how hard I try, the thing won't come loose.. And yes I remembered my righty-tighty/lefty-loosey.

Any suggestions.... this is not how I was hoping to start my diy list of projects for my car.

Thanks,
Johnathan

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Old 07-08-2005, 01:23 PM
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Also use heat.
Torch the surrounding area.
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Old 07-08-2005, 01:27 PM
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I was unable to remove the drain plug also, but I could remove the access plate directly in front of it. That was a bit messier, but drained all the oil out quite quickly.

You might want to take this opportunity to make sure the stationary fork nuts and studs are in tight. Mine came off (which is why I did the above), leaving me stuck in fifth gear. You will need a gasket for that, though.
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Old 07-08-2005, 01:29 PM
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oh, and make sure you can get the "fill" plug out __before__ you remove the drain
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Old 07-08-2005, 01:36 PM
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Get a piece of pipe with a larger ID than the Allen wrench. Use it as an extension for better leverage. Brace yourself well (or as well as possible). Worked for me a week ago.

And be sure the exhaust isn't hot . . .

Ian
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Old 07-08-2005, 02:00 PM
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Grab the allen wrench with a 17mm combination wrench. I used two hands, one on the end of the allen, one on the end of the combination wrench. Looking from the top, the ends were aligned parallel, but 180 degrees from each other. It was a very stable when to pull and push HARD.

It worked for me. Just two weeks ago. I thought about using heat. However, heating the surrounding aluminum would expand the metal, seeming (to me) to make the fit even tighter on the plug.

Good luck!
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Old 07-08-2005, 02:34 PM
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Heating the metal would in fact cause the hole to enlarge not shrink.
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Old 07-08-2005, 02:38 PM
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PB Blaster before using an extension of any kind. Let it soak. Do heed the words of first being sure you can remove the fill plug...
With PB Blaster you may not need the extension. Also, a 17mm long socket placed over the end of the hex allen wrench makes a nice handle...
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Old 07-08-2005, 03:51 PM
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how long is the handle on a 17mm hex key anyways? i am a big fan of allen sockets. there are some nice suggestions above, btw. love em.
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Old 07-08-2005, 03:58 PM
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If your going to be pulling that hard, I'd want her on ramps, not jackstands!
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Old 07-08-2005, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by vash
how long is the handle on a 17mm hex key anyways?
Not long enough. Although on G50s it is 10mm (after I bought a 17mm). I just used a 9" piece of 1/2 copper but for 17mm you'll need something bigger. On the G50, the throttle linkage is in the way of the fill so you can't get a socket on it.

As pwd72s said, sock it with a penetrating oil a couple of days before.

Ian
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Old 07-08-2005, 04:04 PM
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I've been trying with the 1/2" allen socket socket sold by our host. I'll try again in a couple days after I've had time to let the pb-blaster soak in, and after I've picked up a breaker bar.
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Old 07-08-2005, 04:25 PM
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PB Blaster/Heat and some tapping with a hammer has worked for me on stuck threaded fasteners.
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Old 07-08-2005, 04:33 PM
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I highly recommend an impact. Air is best, a borrowed electric one is second. I had the L shaped allen wrench and had no luck, even with a wrench on it for help. I bought the socket and put my impact on it - vrooom!

This is your first project? Time to get AIR TOOLS!

George
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Old 07-08-2005, 04:58 PM
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I actually have a nice 220v compressor and am ok impact wrench, I was just a little warry of using it on the aluminum transmission case.... is this ok to do?

Also, one a related topic. is the concensus that it's ok to support the back of the car on jack stands under the torsion bar covers?

Thanks for all the help guys..
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Old 07-08-2005, 05:40 PM
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Jonathan,

That is correct. The jackstands work just fine if you position them to support the torsion bar covers. A good idea is to slip some cardboard or some other flexible yet sturdy material between the stand and the cover. Prevents scraping off the protective coating off the cover.

Another safe move would be to position a tire underneath the rear of the floor pan. Always good to have the extra protection.

Randy
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Old 07-08-2005, 06:08 PM
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The handle on my Crafsman 17mm allen wrench is 7" long...But the 1/2 drive socket & breaker bar combo should work well...especially after a PB Blaster soaking. If it doesn't, somebody severely overtightened that plug... BTW guys, my '72 doesn't have the problem...both drain and fill plugs on my car take a 19mm wrench. Later on, Porsche decided to "improve" things.
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Old 07-08-2005, 06:24 PM
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Johnathan,
I can come up and give you a hand some time with that stuff. I am a bit S.E. of you. p.m. me your contact info if you want.
Austin
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Old 07-08-2005, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Johnathan
I actually have a nice 220v compressor and am ok impact wrench, I was just a little warry of using it on the aluminum transmission case.... is this ok to do?
IMHO it is okay to use the impact. Just start out at a lower setting and work your way up. It certainly is safer for all components involved than putting a 3" breakerbar on it. The plug is steel, so you can not break that. The Al housing is sturdy, it's not like you'll crack it, before the plug will come loose.

I take my Al lugnuts off with an impact all the time. Same thing there. Al threads and a steel stud.

George
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Last edited by aigel; 07-08-2005 at 08:59 PM..
Old 07-08-2005, 08:54 PM
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be careful! you strip that sucker and you are in a whole new ballgame. a hideous ballgame where big ugly guys hit you with sticks. better IMO not to play. make sure that allen fits perfectly.

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