Engine has light smoke while at idle and start up

markmaunz · 09-23-2005, 10:32 AM

Im looking at a reasonably priced 3.2 with good compression test and leakdown numbers but the current owner says the engine blows a puff of smoke at start up and then starts smoking lightly if left running at idle for a while. Although I know you cant ever tell till you get in there, how often can I get by inexpensively on correcting the problem??? Is valve guides something the amateaur wrench with reasonable skill levels can do? What expenses will I run into and what else should i do 'while in there'??? Thanks in advance for the advice given here!!! Mark
84 Coupe

Emission · Emission's Garage

What did the place who did the compression and leakdown test say? Has it always done this (is there too much oil in it)? Does it smoke when running, or after it is fully warmed-up?

markmaunz · 09-23-2005, 11:31 AM

Individual is not a p-car wrench but agreed that it was valve guides or seals. He says it smokes if sitting at idle for a while and at startup if sitting a day or better. Everyone assumes that this should cost 5,000.00 by the time we finish but if car has good bottom end with good compression numbers, the rings have to be good, right? If I did the engine teardown to do valve guides, how much could this cost? and what else would be consiered kinda dumb not to do? M

markmaunz · 09-23-2005, 08:04 PM

das bump

Por_sha911 · Por_sha911's Garage

If you pull the heads yourself, having a machine shop do the heads won't cost that much. Maybe $1500 "While you're in there" is another story.

cory jump · cory jump's Garage

Definitely valve guides/ stem seals. No doubt about it.
common symptoms

markmaunz · 09-24-2005, 07:17 PM

Can this be done while engine is still in the car??? Anyone done this on your own car???

Elombard · 09-24-2005, 08:14 PM

No way, the head studs are too long to remove the heads while in car. And why would you, its a 90 minute job to remove the motor and trans. One thing, knowing a little about you.... seems like doing the rod bolts to give that little extra security in case of over rev while you have the heads off would be "kinda dumb" :-)) If the macine work is $1500 I would think you would be at least $300- $400 in gaskets and stuff on top of that. The ARP rod bolts aint cheap either. I think there is a throw out arm update that is mandatrory too, probably not that expensive.

markmaunz · 09-24-2005, 08:49 PM

Anyone else know about the prices for the throw out arm update and ARP rod bolts, and cheap 'while Im in there' things that would help on the valve guide issues??

johnsjmc · 06:26 AM

The only throwout arm update I am aware of is for the G50 cars ,not a 1984. A set of ARP rod bolts is a very good idea at about $200, but the rods should be resized on the big end when changed (more machine shop labour).The while you,re in there can include a new clutch ,various hoses,seals,leaky senders perhaps cams and rings .Seldom can people resist some extras.What amount of oil are you using ? I wouldn,t open it up unless it was alot worse than 750 mi. per Qt.. You can buy a lot of oil for a couple thousand and the engine could last you for years like this.The leakdown numbers are good and a puff on startup is quite normal.If the exhaust clears above idle that is also good.