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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: agoura hills, ca 91301
Posts: 2,634
Sachs Clutch, PP and Tranny Gurus - Help?

Before I spend another 4 hours putting back my old clutch, pressure plate and tranny, please help.

Here are the parts:

New release fork.
New cable.
New Helper Spring.
Pelican Parts Sachs Power Clutch #300-961-01
PEL-PP909137 High Performance Aluminum Flywheel, 911 (1978-83)
Car is a 1983 911 SC Cabriolet
Interim tranny (while the original is being rebuilt) is serial #/61 717 6929

SPECIAL NOTE: PEL-PP909137 is now reclassified by our host as follows: High Performance Aluminum Flywheel, 911 (1978-79). Maybe this explains the pilot bearing hole mystery.



While assembly, here is what I noticed:
The new aluminum flywheel has a small hole compared to old one. The clutch is somewhat similar to the pic. I was about to get a machine shop enlarge the hole to fit the pilot bearing, but I subsequently found that a retrofit bearing was available which I bought. So I think I overcame this fitment issue.

I installed the pressure plate, lined up the clutch with the tool, bolted the pressure plate, mated the tranny to the engine, installed the engine back to the car and everything else went smoothly.

Now.....
With the rear still on jacks, I started the car in neutral and I noticed that the wheels are rotating slowly. I could stop the rotation with my hand. So ignore this thinking it is just 'break-in period.'

I turned off the engine, and I could shift into gears easily. Shifting is possible with and without the clutch pedal depressed.

I lowered the car ready for my maiden voyage, put it in neutral, started the car, but it would not shift into 1st or reverse. Feeling frustrated, I shut off the engine, put it into 1st gear, held the clutch depressed, and attempted to start it.....THE CAR JUMPED FORWARD as if the clutch was not depressed. I did a 2nd test by shutting the engine off, depressing the clutch, putting it in reverse, started the car, and the car JUMPed backwards.....as if the clutch was never depressed!!!

My preload of 1.0mm is good. I have threaded the clevis into the cable @ 27mm and the clutch still would not release. I am now afraid to go further fearing I might bend the fork. Note that I have not rechecked my clutch release distance as I would think that @ 27mm, I am beyond .98in.

Anyone had this issue? Do I have parts mismatch issue? Can I thread the clevis further? Is my cable stretched? Help!

Old 10-06-2005, 09:21 PM
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Location: agoura hills, ca 91301
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BYW, something crazy I did (please do not attempt this) for testing:

While the rear is still up in the air (six jack stands in place for somewhat safety reasons), I put the car in first gear, depress the clutch, started the engine, and the the wheels started to rotate fast. Slowly releasing the clutch pedal, the wheels started to rotate faster. Same test was done for the reverse and same results.

My point here is that I strongly believe that my clutch is 'partially engaged all the time.'

Should I keep adjusting the clevis? I am almost at the end of the cable thread!

Oh, and I do have a new clutch pedal shaft and my cluster is newly rebuilt with the bronze stuff from our host.

What gives?

Again, boys and girls, do not try this @ home. I am a professional stunt man as I work for 20th Century Fox. (wink on the stuntman).
Old 10-06-2005, 09:30 PM
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Theres gotta be an expert out there!!!!

Bueller...Bueller! Anyone? Anyone? Bumparoni for Help!
Old 10-07-2005, 05:16 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
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did you watch as the fork engaged the t/o bearing? if that's ok, for sure, set the tiny amount of clearance between the forks, then take up the slack in the sheath with the two nuts until you have about one inch freeplay in the pedal. should work at this point.

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Old 10-07-2005, 06:07 PM
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