Engine Drop - Stealth Mode

[Blanco]

Nice work...

[Wayne 962]

Super flywheel lock! (no sarcasm)

-Wayne

[buster73]

Originally posted by Asjac
I have a newb question for you...what size torx bit are the flywheel bolts? I assume that is what they are...

These are 12mm 12-point bolts with a relatively short head. Very important to have a good quality tool and to seat it properly in the bolt head before trying to loosen them. Otherwise its easy to round them and then you are in trouble. I use a 24" breaker bar which makes it almost an easy job.

[randywebb]

You can grind the bit end flat if it gets rounded or messed up at all - inspect carefully, even use a magnifier to look at it and the bolt head

push INTO the bolt as you twist to ensure proper seating

[buster73]

Originally posted by Wayne at Pelican Parts
Super flywheel lock! (no sarcasm)

-Wayne

Always use the tools that come with the car !! Some say you can dismantle a 911 with the stock tool kit. Have to try this out one day.

[klaucke]

May have trouble with the cam nut...!

[Fperotti]

Ihre Arbeit ist sehr schön.

Congrats and keep posting.

Fernando.

[buster73]

My powder coater is still dragging his feet, but at least this gives me time to do all the small stuff without too much urgency. Replaced the crankshaft seals with a thin layer of "Blue Hylomar" sealant on the seating surface and sealed the case plugs with epoxy. Also have pulled the oil cooler for new seals, to straighten some bend fins and to steam clean the cooling surface. Starter motor is overhauled and ready to go back into the car. The engine bay is painted and its good to have some days to let it dry thoroughly. Still struggling whether to remove the left heat exchanger in order to replace the oil line (engine to tank). I have a new 2-piece replacement (74+) for the old 1-piece line which seems to be the original part. The rubber section still looks o.k. from the outside, but after 33 years it sure won't hurt to replace it. I just hate these exhaust header nuts !!!

[slotcar]

Guenter, did you shoot that paint yourself.....where did you hide your compressor? If your garage mate doesn't smell the fresh paint....you could do just about anything...if he/she is that oblivious

[buster73]

Originally posted by slotcar
Guenter, did you shoot that paint yourself.....where did you hide your compressor? If your garage mate doesn't smell the fresh paint....you could do just about anything...if he/she is that oblivious

Its all about timing. My neighbor gave me a break and is out for the weekend. The moment he was out of sight, I was shaking spray cans (no compressor, we don't want to push things). Paint should be dry by tomorrow and on Sunday I can open the garage door for a while, in case the smell is still too strong. Anyway I consider painting as part of "cleaning" so there really shouldn't be any problem with it.

[yelcab1]

It's going to rain in RW city (I live up the street in San Carlos, by the way)for the next 4 days, I hope that paint smell goes away on its own. I also heard that painting in this damp weather does not make for a long lasting paint job. Your engine comp paint looks good, let's hope it lasts with the heat.

[buster73]

Originally posted by yelcab1 ... Your engine comp paint looks good, let's hope it lasts with the heat. [/B]

I'm using engine enamel. Already used it for my Fuchs wheel centers and the fan shroud and both held up well for many years. Luckily "Chevy Orange" is very close to "Tangerine" or "Continental Orange" and you only see a difference when holding both colors next to each other. Another reason to buy orange cars !!!

[buster73]

Was traveling and had to pause the project for a while. The engine bay paint is dry and turned out pretty nice. Also replaced the sift selector rod seal and it was quite tough to get the old seal out of the tranny housing. While having the drive train out, I was planning to turn over the rear trailing arm bolts (inner banana arm bolts), so I can remove the arms without dropping/lowering the gearbox. However it looks as if the bolts are too long to go in the other way round (nut at the inside). I tried from all angles but anything short from widening the holes in the mounts (which of course is no option) seems not to work. Anyone knows if Porsche changed the geometry of the rear mounts for the later cars or the shape of the torsion bar tube, because most later cars I know have the bolts the other way round ? At the moment the arms are still connected to the hub and the spring plate and I wanted to avoid disconnecting them, as this would add a brake bleed job and a rear alignment to the task list. Hope anyone out there has a "secret tip" how to get those bolts in the other way round. I thought separating the arms from the hub/spring plate might help, but don't want to start before someone can confirm this is the way to go ?? (Solution see: 73: Can't reverse banana arm bolts ?)
.

[randywebb]

P AG changed the orientation of the bolts at s ome point - if your is a '73 it might have been after that. The pic confuses me tho as it appears the bolt head faces inward towards the engine comp./tunnel and it should pull out that way.

Anyway, the fix is to cut the bolt out if it won't come out -- but it should since the engine is gone.

[buster73]

Originally posted by randywebb
P AG changed the orientation of the bolts at s ome point - if your is a '73 it might have been after that. The pic confuses me tho as it appears the bolt head faces inward towards the engine comp./tunnel and it should pull out that way.

Anyway, the fix is to cut the bolt out if it won't come out -- but it should since the engine is gone.

Thanks Randy,

I can get the bolt out without a problem, now with the tranny removed. The problem is that I can not get the bolt in the other way round (bolt head facing outwards and nut inside facing tunnel side). My car is an early 73 (January 73).

[buster73]

Hadn't had too much time lately, but now the car is slowly going back together again. The flywheel is torqued down, the oil cooler is back in the engine with new seals and all the new fuel lines and heater hoses are installed. I re-routed the breather hose and mounted it to the to firewall, to get some order in all the lines criss-crossing the engine bay. Should also help to prevent oil sludge puddling in the breather hose. Almost forgot to install my new release bearing fork (good to have a check-list and even better if you use it !!). Also repaired the fan shroud which had lost some of its corners and edges over the years. Next step will be to complete the engine and make it ready to go back into the car. Can't wait to drive again.

[buster73]

Its done. Engine and tranny are back in the car. No surprises and everything went quite smooth. It's fun to work with clean parts and watch everything come together. Even the paper air hoses slipped on without buckling - I really thought it is not possible to install them without destroying them in the process. Before the installation, I also treated the magnesium gearbox housing with a corrosion protection wax. Next step will be to finish all connections, check all fasteners and then start it up and adjust the carbs.

[ZOA NOM]

Absolutely gorgeous. Outstanding work, the neighbor couldn't say a word!

[buster73]

O.K. almost done. But of course there were some surprises. The moment I connected the battery cable, the starter motor started spinning by itself. First thought I had messed up the wiring, but that's almost impossible with 3 wires (even for a mechanical engineer). As the starter was just spinning and not engaging I figured something is wrong with the solenoid. Took the solenoid out (which is quite easy now that everything is cleaned up) and discovered that the solenoid plunger must have slipped of the activation lever when I assembled the starter, blocking the solenoid in the closed position. I probably should have left the starter in one piece the first time, as there was no real need to take it apart. With the solenoid back in place everything worked as expected. Primed the fuel system, checked for leaks and adjusted the fuel pressure to 3 psi. Everything was tight except the Weber banjo fittings. Again, I had installed new seals although I never had trouble reusing the old seals many times before. After re-torquing the banjo bolts they are still leaking slightly, but I would hate to over-torque the bolts or break the carb housing. Engine started right away and I could do a first basic carb tuning. By next week I have to tighten those banjo bolts and then do a second carb tuning. Clutch also needs some more adjustment to disengage properly. Looks we are getting ready for spring.

[ZOA NOM]

Awesome, you'll be just in time for a Mines Road Pelican run.