Moving oil lines to make 275/40/17's fit help

JonT · 02-02-2006, 09:10 AM

How much room does moving these oil lines in the right rear fenderwell gain? I'm trying to get this tire and wheel combo to fit with minimal rubbing and need to know what it takes to do this. Is this an easy diy job? Any details from someone who's done it? Thx

JonT · 02-02-2006, 11:35 AM

bump

Boxer 6 · 02-02-2006, 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by JonT
How much room does moving these oil lines in the right rear fenderwell gain? I'm trying to get this tire and wheel combo to fit with minimal rubbing and need to know what it takes to do this. Is this an easy diy job? Any details from someone who's done it? Thx

Jon,

You don't want any rubbing

Those tires will not fit stock sc fenders. You will also have clearance problems with the trailing arm. I'm running 285/40 17 on 11" rims, but I'm using 2" spacers with RSR flares. Sorry, there is no cheap easy way out

JonT · 02-02-2006, 12:01 PM

Thanks Mark--it sounds like some guys have made it work by moving the oil lines, rolling fenders, shaving spring plate bolts and negative camber. I know it sounds like a lot of work but what the heck. Just trying to follow what some others have done-not blaze a new trail.

m325ix · 02-02-2006, 12:21 PM

I ran 255s in the back of a stock SC with no issues, but 275 is 2 wide

Bill Verburg · Bill Verburg's Garage

IF the wheel o/s is perfect and I do mean perfect, a 275 will just squeze in there. The lips of the wheel arch will need to be massaged and the oil line relocated into the crease and the trailing arm bolts ground down.

There are some more drastic measures that can be done as well but the above should do it.

here is what my passenger side well looks like

Even w/ all of the above ther is very little clearance on either side

Jack Olsen · 02-02-2006, 01:19 PM

I ran 275's with no issues under SC flares. The spring plate bolt needs to be machined down; the oil line has to be moved; the fender lip needs to be rolled. As Bill notes, you need the correct offset for the wheel to be positioned correctly.

I didn't get rubbing, and I pushed it pretty hard (although I think this is Tyson Schmidt driving in the picture):

mjshira · 01:31 PM

God I love that car!

I have the same size on my car, no rubs ever!

Len VanderJagt · 02-02-2006, 01:40 PM

Bill, Jack, and MJ: what brand tires are you running? It seems to me that shoulder profile would be a significant issue, yes?

With regard to grinding, we are talking about the spring plate to trailing arm bolts? Couldn't I just use a shorter bolt?

Len VanderJagt

JonT · 02-02-2006, 01:44 PM

Thanks for the help. What exactly needs to be done to the springplate bolt? Which tool to I use to grind it down? Do I leave it on the car when I do this? How much can I take off? I'm adjusting the position of the wheel now using spacers. The 1" spacer I have on now pushes the wheel out too far. I'm shooting for 1/2" spacers and will move the oil lines, grind springplate and Elephant Racings Cambermax to achieve 2 or 3 deg negative camber to make this work.

mjshira · 02-02-2006, 01:47 PM

I am running yoko's again, no issues.

Boxer 6 · 02-02-2006, 01:51 PM

Sorry Jon I stand corrected, both Bill and Jack have a ton of knowledge

And if they say it can be done; Well.....it can be done. Now I'm wondering if I can squeeze some 335's under my RSR fenders

Len VanderJagt · 02-02-2006, 01:53 PM

Oh, sorry, the camber and toe eccentric bolt heads need to be shaved.
Duh.

Len

Bill Verburg · Bill Verburg's Garage

Quote:

Couldn't I just use a shorter bolt?

no

Yes, there are differences in measured dimesions, width, height and shoulder profile vary between the makers from nominal.

The above pic is w/ a Dunlop 9000 they are ampong the widest and have pretty square shoulders