valve adjustment

[paslantnose]

I too decided to dive in today (had one valve begin to tick) and came back to this thread to refresh.
I decided to forego the factory method and went right to adjusting via Doug's method.
Armed with a .0025" feeler gauge, i simply used that to set them and adjusted until there was a very slight drag on the feeler.

Buttoned it all back up and went for a spin.
No more ticking valve (found 2 intakes slightly loose and 3 exhaust slightly tight).
Imagination but, it seems to pull minutely stronger from 3500 rpm on up.

Total time, 3 hours.
Honestly, ANYONE that can change their oil can do this !!!
Patience (and a few cold yueglings) is all it takes !

[ninelevenick]

This is one heck of a thread! About one year ago, I adjusted the valves on my car for the first time and set them way loose. One month later, I adjusted them again, both times using the .004" hooked handle gauge tool. The second adjustment resulted in marked improvement, but when the oil temp. reaches about 190 degrees, one or more of the valves tick. There was one peculiar thing I noticed during the last adjustment though. I spent a lot of time on both the intake and exhaust for valve #2. The reason is because I would adjust the valve and then check for movement by pushing and pulling the adjustment screw (tappet?). After a while you get the feel of how much play there should be. Well, for #2, I would push and pull a few times feeling right, but then it would intermittently feel sloppy. The sloppy feel is difficult to describe, but there was more movement than there should have been. I don't have enough knowledge to come up with a reason or solution. Needless to say, I left the valve in this condition. Has anyone else experienced this? If so, I would be grateful if you could shed some light on this manner. Anyway, next week I will have time to take the valve covers off and try the method that has been covered by this thread. I hope I find some loose valves. Thank you for this thread!

[khamul02]

So how many have used Doug's method?

[WERK I]

Originally posted by Snipernick
There was one peculiar thing I noticed during the last adjustment though. I spent a lot of time on both the intake and exhaust for valve #2. The reason is because I would adjust the valve and then check for movement by pushing and pulling the adjustment screw (tappet?). After a while you get the feel of how much play there should be. Well, for #2, I would push and pull a few times feeling right, but then it would intermittently feel sloppy. The sloppy feel is difficult to describe, but there was more movement than there should have been. I don't have enough knowledge to come up with a reason or solution. Needless to say, I left the valve in this condition. Has anyone else experienced this? If so, I would be grateful if you could shed some light on this manner. Anyway, next week I will have time to take the valve covers off and try the method that has been covered by this thread. I hope I find some loose valves. Thank you for this thread!

Snipernick,
You may have worn elephants feet on #2. I found this on my 930. I don't know if it's oil seeping in the pad and creating an hydraulic effect when doing a cold adjustment, cause once the engine got up to operating temperature, the tick was back. Replacing the elephant feet/adjusters solved the problem. So the problem may be coming from the feet themselves, not your technique.

[oneblueyedog]

Originally posted by khamul02
So how many have used Doug's method?

I'm doing it right now. Number one's intake let a .0025 slide in with a little side to side movement and the .003 would bow up and not slide in. The exhaust valve needed adjustment as the .003 went in easily. I set the valve with the .0025 on the heel to where there was an oil stiction of a drag to take it out like the poster above. I could slide it all around. When I tried the .003 feeler. It bowed like the intake and wouldn't go in. It's as easy as a 914 now. What I really like about the technique is that you don't have to waste time in adjusting a valve that didn't need adjusting. You can check it before hand. It's not possible with the elephant foot tool.

[oneblueyedog]

We'll I've buttoned up the covers. I found only one valve tight. I sure hope I haven't burned it. #4 exhaust. Hope it's not stretching either.

I'd have to say it is more exercise to set them in that you have to stand up and down to set the feeler guage and pull it for feel. It was kind of tedious having to go topside for the intake adjustment and then below to drag the feeler guage (.0025). The drag on it is much looser than the adjustment tool method . The .003 just flexes when you have it set. On the valves I didn't adjust I checked the .0025 and made sure it went in nice and slick. Then i tried the .003 and the flex, and not going in told me that it was set.

Cut the time in half for me.

I'll post back for the running.

[Wil Ferch]

Another hint....

if you turn the crank in 120 degree increments "like we're told"...you'll be jumping back and forth on both sides of the engine ...going from one cylinder to another, in sequence.... on opposite sides.

If you turn the crank 240 degrees...you'll always stay on one side of the engine before yuo ultimately jump over to the other side...

This too saves some wasted time....

Wil

[khamul02]

I wonder how long it will take for everyone to use this method!! I didn't even think about not having to adjust every valve.

[khamul02]

At the very least, someone needs to write up a new tech article with this method.

[terryb]

So will this new-fangled method work on 3.2's also? Are the rocker arm ratios the same?

[2.7RACER]

Terry,
Yes, just did my '85 last month. The rockers are the same. I think you are good on all 911's up to the hydraulic lifters.
I jacked up the drivers side and did not drain the oil. Then did the passenger side. I lost less than 1/2 cup of oil.
I did remove the Catalytic converter for better access.
Simple and time saving. Only adjust the valves that don't pass the go-no go test.
Have fun,

[ninelevenick]

I used this method for the first time this weekend. I used all three - .002, .0025, and .003 to adjust and check. Since I adjusted the valves about one year ago, I used this time around to double check my work. I found four that were loose and none too tight. At first, I used just the .0025 and .003 feeler gauges, but then I noticed how close they were and I like to adjust on the tight side. So, I started using the .002 more. I really like this method because it takes the guesswork out of it, and no more fumbling with the .004 hooked gauge! End result? No more excessive tapping noise which drives me nuts! Okay, I'm really anal. Thank-you for this thread.

[TCB]

This works!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I used the .004 hook gage twice then Doug's method to triple check my work and it is right on!! Next time (in a couple of years with the amount of milage I put on the old girl) I'll just use Doug's method!

Great thread
Terry

[sig_a]

In the next couple of months, I plan on doing a valve adjust on my '87 Carrera. Call me too conservative, but I think "doing it" for the first time requires following the conventional method of adjustment, rather than measuring between the rocker arm and the cam lobe. Is my thinking a bit too puritanical, or should I take a walk on the wild side?

[GrantG]

Originally posted by sig_a
In the next couple of months, I plan on doing a valve adjust on my '87 Carrera. Call me too conservative, but I think "doing it" for the first time requires following the conventional method of adjustment, rather than measuring between the rocker arm and the cam lobe. Is my thinking a bit too puritanical, or should I take a walk on the wild side?

Do it both ways and prove to yourself how accurate the new way is (easy to check the cam/rocker clearance after setting the conventional clearance) - just takes another minute or so...

[TCB]

I agree. There will be lots of "bonding" with the car.
ASK ME HOW I KNOW

[livi]

Makes me wonder why Porsche did not come up with this technique in the first place. I mean they put the engine together, youŽd think some of their engineers would stop one day and go: " Hey, guys, it just dawned on me - why canŽt we adjust the valves like this ? Its helluva lot easier !!!

Hmmm....

[sig_a]

Because Porsche is an auto company based on tradition. My guess is their engineers would claim the traditional adjustment method is superior, and it may be. Given the little time it takes, I intend to do it the both ways.

[Wil Ferch]

Because the German mentality is..."why make it simple if we can make it complicated ? ..."

I can say that with impunity since I have a German heritage !!

- Wil

[Gunter]

What would the world be like without Porsche?
Would have to go BMW.
Or no German beer!
Shudder to think that we would be left with the chemical soup coming from certain breweries. Swill made for hockey-fans?