valve adjustment

[livi]

Someone please help me confirm my calculations and thoughts on this new method.

I suppose I need to get feeler blades in mm here in Sweden. I calculated your 0.0025 / 0.003 corresponding to 0.064 / 0.077 mm. Correct ? Also, I very much doubt I will find blades with those exact measurements. What approximations would be close enough ?

Also about the method: to check intake - slide blade in from exhaust point of direction ? If 'thicker' blade goes in - to loose - tighten clockwise on intake screw ? If 'thinner' blade does not fit - too tight - loosen counter clockwise on intake screw ? Keep thinner blade in place and slowly tighten screw till 'magnetic resistance' ?

Is this how you do it - or am I totally lost ?

[Todd Simpson]

I've used this method twice now and it really is cool. I've never had valves this quiet before.

Also about the method: to check intake - slide blade in from exhaust point of direction ?

Yes. Do the normal adjustment on the top of the engine. Once complete, go underneath with the flat feeler gauge and slide it upwards to check the clearance between the rocker and the cam as a double check.

If 'thicker' blade goes in - to loose - tighten clockwise on intake screw ? If 'thinner' blade does not fit - too tight - loosen counter clockwise on intake screw ?

Yes. This method will require lots of getting up, then going back under the car. In the end though, you will be so much more sure that the adjustment is right.

[livi]

Thanks Todd,

But now I am confused. You mean you first do the 'normal' (old method ?) adjustment on top - and then just double check with the new method ? I thought I could simply try to fit the two blades and if necessary adjust the screw as needed. Have I missed something ?

[oneblueyedog]

Originally posted by livi
Thanks Todd,

But now I am confused. You mean you first do the 'normal' (old method ?) adjustment on top - and then just double check with the new method ? I thought I could simply try to fit the two blades and if necessary adjust the screw as needed. Have I missed something ?

Not meaning to intrude but you can just use the cam lobe test to adjust. The .0025 will have a slight resistance pulling from between the lobe and rocker. The .003 equivalent will not go in after this. It will bow up when you try to insert it in.

I took the risk to set my valves this way, without doing the old method at all.

It's true that the valves do not click when the car is cold. When the car is hot I get a slight clicking, but I'm in Texas and we are seeing days close to 100°F daily. This is proof that the valves loosen when the engine is hot.

I doubt if I will adjust another valve that doesn't need adjusting.

I can also see this method working to check valves that are stretching from wear. That can save an engine and a lot of money.

[oneblueyedog]

Originally posted by livi
Thanks Todd,

But now I am confused. You mean you first do the 'normal' (old method ?) adjustment on top - and then just double check with the new method ? I thought I could simply try to fit the two blades and if necessary adjust the screw as needed. Have I missed something ?

Not meaning to intrude but you can just use the cam lobe test to adjust. The .0025 will have a slight resistance pulling from between the lobe and rocker. The .003 equivalent will not go in after this. It will bow up when you try to insert it in.

I took the risk to set my valves this way, without doing the old method at all.

It's true that the valves do not click when the car is cold. When the car is hot I get a slight clicking, but I'm in Texas and we are seeing days close to 100°F daily. This is proof that the valves loosen when the engine is hot.

I doubt if I will adjust another valve that doesn't need adjusting.

I can also see this method working to check valves that are stretching from wear. That can save an engine and a lot of money.

[oneblueyedog]

Originally posted by livi
Thanks Todd,

But now I am confused. You mean you first do the 'normal' (old method ?) adjustment on top - and then just double check with the new method ? I thought I could simply try to fit the two blades and if necessary adjust the screw as needed. Have I missed something ?

Not meaning to intrude but you can just use the cam lobe test to adjust. The .0025 will have a slight resistance pulling from between the lobe and rocker. The .003 equivalent will not go in after this. It will bow up when you try to insert it in.

I took the risk to set my valves this way, without doing the old method at all.

It's true that the valves do not click when the car is cold. When the car is hot I get a slight clicking, but I'm in Texas and we are seeing days close to 100°F daily. This is proof that the valves loosen when the engine is hot.

I doubt if I will adjust another valve that doesn't need adjusting.

I can also see this method working to check valves that are stretching from wear. That can save an engine and a lot of money.

[oneblueyedog]

Originally posted by livi
Thanks Todd,

But now I am confused. You mean you first do the 'normal' (old method ?) adjustment on top - and then just double check with the new method ? I thought I could simply try to fit the two blades and if necessary adjust the screw as needed. Have I missed something ?

Not meaning to intrude but you can just use the cam lobe test to adjust. The .0025 will have a slight resistance pulling from between the lobe and rocker. The .003 equivalent will not go in after this. It will bow up when you try to insert it in.

I took the risk to set my valves this way, without doing the old method at all.

It's true that the valves do not click when the car is cold. When the car is hot I get a slight clicking, but I'm in Texas and we are seeing days close to 100°F daily. This is proof that the valves loosen when the engine is hot.

I doubt if I will adjust another valve that doesn't need adjusting.

I can also see this method working to check valves that are stretching from wear. That can save an engine and a lot of money.

[oneblueyedog]

Originally posted by livi
Thanks Todd,

But now I am confused. You mean you first do the 'normal' (old method ?) adjustment on top - and then just double check with the new method ? I thought I could simply try to fit the two blades and if necessary adjust the screw as needed. Have I missed something ?

Not meaning to intrude but you can just use the cam lobe test to adjust. The .0025 will have a slight resistance pulling from between the lobe and rocker. The .003 equivalent will not go in after this. It will bow up when you try to insert it in.

I took the risk to set my valves this way, without doing the old method at all.

It's true that the valves do not click when the car is cold. When the car is hot I get a slight clicking, but I'm in Texas and we are seeing days close to 100°F daily. This is proof that the valves loosen when the engine is hot.

I doubt if I will adjust another valve that doesn't need adjusting.

I can also see this method working to check valves that are stretching from wear. That can save an engine and a lot of money.

[Todd Simpson]

No intrusion at all...I'm no expert, just a satified user.

But now I am confused. You mean you first do the 'normal' (old method ?) adjustment on top - and then just double check with the new method ? I thought I could simply try to fit the two blades and if necessary adjust the screw as needed. Have I missed something ?

You can't fit the two blades at once. Either you have .004 on the adjustment end of the rocker or .00285 on the cam end. If you could fit both blades in, the clearance would be twice what it should be.

You could use the "new method" only as noted above, or use it in addition to the old method as a double check.

I like it as a double check because as long as I'm adjusting the screw I might a well use the old method-I'm right there at the screw anyway. I also like the "confirmation" of using both methods. The feel at the screw is kind of funny, so I like double checking with a different method to be sure it's right.

[livi]

Ok, thanks!

Yes, Todd, that part I understood - fitting one blade at a time.

Now I only need to confirm I have the right sizes in millimeters - and if I can not find those exact numbers - what sizes would do ?

I can´t see myself ordering a simple set of blades from US - shipping cost ten times the value of the blades..

[jbrinkley]

my blades say .063 and .076 it's printed on them with the english equivalent .

[livi]

Perfect Jerry!

Sounds almost exactly like the dimensions I need! Thanks!

[zachsbug]

I just adjusted my valves on my 68 T on Friday & it took me most of the day to do it. I have done this on my VW's many times so the feel is no problem but this method sounds a lot easier. I wish I had this information then. I have another question, my crankshaft pulley has the Z1 mark but for the 120 degree markings there are none. What I did is is estimate 120 degrees to be at the 4 o'clock & 8 o'clock position. My question is since I estimated the 120 degrees how accurate are my settings? I read a bunch of threads last night & one suggested that as long as you are on the round side of the cam for that valve you can adjust the valve. What you guys think?

[Wil Ferch]

I would think that this is correct....the "heel" of the cam has a very wide ( degrees-of-arc) span...and as long as you know you are on the heel, you should be OK. Not a definitive check...but after doing this , I would "tug" on the rocker to see that there is some "clicking" ..a little bit of movement. That would be an indication you are not on the "ramp" or "peak" of the cam lobe....

- Wil

[Brad01mc]

Hi!

So, just to clarify for us Metric folks, if the clearance is 0.1mm, and the rocker ratio is 1.45, then if I want to use this new method, I simply divide 0.1mm/1.45= 0.068965517mm or 0.69mm to get the correct amount, right?

This means that I use a 0.69mm feeler on the lobe I should be OK, correct?

thanks!

Brad

[wesayso]

Originally posted by Brad01mc
Hi!

So, just to clarify for us Metric folks, if the clearance is 0.1mm, and the rocker ratio is 1.45, then if I want to use this new method, I simply divide 0.1mm/1.45= 0.068965517mm or 0.69mm to get the correct amount, right?

This means that I use a 0.69mm feeler on the lobe I should be OK, correct?

thanks!

Brad

Don't forget that extra zero (0,069mm)

[livi]

OK. Thanks Wil. I will probably double check with the "old gold standard" to begin with.

[2.7RACER]

Brad,
Why make this tough on yourself. Last time I looked Redlands was in the USA.
Use a 3 thousandths (.003") feeler as a NO-GO gauge.
Use a 2.5 thousandths (.0025") feeler as a GO gauge.
For all the metric types:
If you can find one, .08mm shim/feeler would work as a NO-GO gauge.
.06mm shim/feeler would work as a GO gauge.
All this since the gap at the rocker/cam is 1.0/1.4=.714285714mm.
Or if you choose to use 1.45 as the ratio then .068965517mm
Still don't need to develop any "feel"
It is either GO or NO GO.
I don't have any idea what is typically available in countries where the metric system predominates.
Perhaps a reader in a metric country can help us with this.
Have fun,

Edit: to add correct zero before mm's..06mm.08mm

[livi]

Thats great Doug !!

Exactly the approximation numbers I was looking for !

Thanks a lot !!!

[2.7RACER]

Markus,
Look at the edit. I missed a zero in my previous post.