Trans support when no engine in?

JohnJL · 02-04-2006, 05:22 PM

I'm finishing up prepping the SC for its cage install and have a question about the trannie support...

The cage installer wants the car stripped...no engine as he'll be installing tower bracing and going to the rails.

I have the engine out but have left the transmission in (replaced the mounts with WEVO and left them loose.) I have jack stands supporting the transmission and ropes holding up the rear hubs/CV.

I don't want to drop the trans if I don't have to.

Is it OK to reinstall the rear wheels and let the car down with the transmission mounted only on its 2 mounts?

rcecale · rcecale's Garage

John,

Unless you support the aft end of the transmission somehow, I would imagine you'd be puuting too much pressure on the shift rod or the linkage.

You may be better off just dropping the tranny completely out. Just the two crossmember bolts, the coupler, speedo cable and reverse lisght plug and you're done.

You'll prolly find it easier to reinstall the engine/tranny together as a unit, anyway.

Randy

JohnJL · 02-04-2006, 06:28 PM

Randy,
That would be the CV bolts too, right...

aircooledsonly · 02-04-2006, 06:44 PM

To do it this way put 2 studs or bolts in top bell housing holes then use a motor cycle tie down from top of shock under studs to top of other shock tower.

rcecale · rcecale's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by JohnJL
Randy,
That would be the CV bolts too, right...

Umm, yep, sorry 'bout that. Yes, your CV bolts would have to come out as well. Shouldn't be a big issue though, because with the tranny out, you'll be able to thoroughly clean the flanges and attaching hardware (bolts, schnorrs, moon plates).

When installing them back, be sure to use the proper torque and to check them again after 100 miles of so. Not a bad idea to be checking tham periodically anyway...been a rash of them backing out lately, it seems.

Randy

Kevin Stewart · 02-05-2006, 09:53 AM

just take the tranny out its another hours work and will be easier to put motor and tranny in as one unit, Kevin

Zeke · 02-05-2006, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by rcecale
Umm, yep, sorry 'bout that. Yes, your CV bolts would have to come out as well. Shouldn't be a big issue though, because with the tranny out, you'll be able to thoroughly clean the flanges and attaching hardware (bolts, schnorrs, moon plates).

When installing them back, be sure to use the proper torque and to check them again after 100 miles of so. Not a bad idea to be checking tham periodically anyway...been a rash of them backing out lately, it seems.

Randy

Yes, and you might search out one or two of those threads and print them out. New Schnor are a must if not new bolts.

JohnJL · 05:58 AM

You guys were right, of course. I went ahead and pulled it and can see it will make all the rewiring much easier too.

You might have noticed from some other posts I've got "while I'm in there-itis" and may plumb in a cooler and pump while its out...

yes, a lot of cv bolts backing out lately....any common shop working on all those cars?????

again, your kung-fu is the best...

btw, today the SCWDP travelled to Kuala Lumpur, tomorrow to Penang. Shirt pics in both to come!

rcecale · rcecale's Garage

Good on ya, John!

I think you're find it a lot easier to install the eng/trans together as a unit as well.

As far as the CV bolts go, I'm sure it's not one shop in particular, but rather a lot of people putting things together without knowing all the specifics. Take a look at this thread and you'll see just how deep and involved the CV bolt topic really is. Best recommendation...clean everything as well as you can, aiming for a totally grease free area, prior to re-installing the bolts. Then, use new bolts, schnorr washers and moon-clips. All together it's probably going to cast around $25.00 to $30.00 (US), but the peace of mind is priceless.

Also, be sure to check the torque of the CV bolts after 100 - 150 miles or so.

Randy