Removing/replacing front fender - putty & wiring question

[Tom '74 911]

Hello -
I'm in the process of removing my front fenders and was wondering about pulling the headlight & other wires out of the headlight bucket. See photo:





I can pull the wires out of the (2) rectangular connectors - like the one in my fingers - but they don't want to come out of the headlight connector. Am I being a wuss - do I need to yank harder on them? I'm trying to be somewhat conservative, because the wires are a little brittle & I don't want to break them & have to fully rewire. Is it easier to just clip them and rewire? What do "the pros" do?

Also - in regards to the "fender installation putty" (not the official name I know! what's it called?) I read thru a lot of previous posts and couldn't find a consensis(sp?) on whether or not to use it as it could keep water out, but also trap water as well. Is there a prevailing thought when replacing fenders to use the putty or not?

Thanks, Tom

[beamonk]

The headlight wires take a very small (precision screwdriver) to pry the claws or clips that hold the wires in the socket. If you yank them they will break. Mark the wires well! As for the fenders, I always sand and sandblast the entire fender mounting areas on both sides, clean off all of the dum-dum, use a good quality epoxy primer and paint for this area. All 911's will rust in this area, esp. up near the cowl. Clean this area so there is no black spots, even minuscule, as that is rust. I put the fenders on with no dum-dum, but put a bead of silicone or caulk in the seam before putting on the weatherstrip. I would rather have a well primed and painted area that the water runs out of then gathers. It gathers up top in the cowl area, that is why it rusts so badly there. I have had good results with this method, and the lack of dum-dum does not make ths car more noisy in my opinion. Just get all of the rust gone!

[mb911]

A window install guy told me never use silicone as it has acids in it that cause rust. I have used mortite (avaiable at your true value store)

[Tom '74 911]

John & Ben - thanks for your responses.
I will try a small screwdriver to pop those suckers loose. I plan to do a lot of wire labeling during disassembly! Also, I tried to take a lot of photos before I took everything apart - to help me reassemble.

I'd be surprised not to find rust under the fender mounting area. I'm just hoping that it's not too bad. I was planning on cleaning it all up and then POR-15ing the entire area.

John - by not using "dum-dum" are you reffering to the "fender putty"? You mention using weatherstrip - are you reffering to the trim piece btwn the windshield cowel and fender, or do you put weatherstrip along the entire fender mounting area?

So that's (1) vote for NO "fender installation putty" stuff. Anyone else?

Thanks,
Tom

[Early_S_Man]

Tom,

It looks like some 'Pro' already altered your headlight wiring ... years ago, with a mini extension cord! The splices you are holding in your hand aren't from the factory. The headlamp connector is supposed to be on the end of that cable! There is just enough room for the cable to go straight into the bucket and to the headlamp. There won't be that extra curl like a pig's tail if you correct that SNAFU!

While you are at it correcting previous mistakes ... put in four relays and separate fusing, and I bet your lights will work like new!

[Tom '74 911]

Warren -
I was wondering about that! I thought it looked like a bit of a mess in there. Everything was working fine before I started digging into it but maybe I'll get inspired and learn about rewiring "while I'm in there".
Thanks,
Tom

[wowzer911]

I am using the factory butyl tape mastic, "ABDICHTBAND"
part no. 000 043 129 00 but it is also available from lots of other suppliers, window glaziers, metal building components, etc.

[Tom '74 911]

Originally posted by wowzer911
I am using the factory butyl tape mastic, "ABDICHTBAND"
part no. 000 043 129 00 but it is also available from lots of other suppliers, window glaziers, metal building components, etc.

Thanks Wowzer -
From PP, the tape is called "Terostat Ribbon". Looks like it's also used for the rear quarter lower window moulding.

So now it's:
(1) No tape/ribbon
(1) Yes tape/ribbon

Tom

[beamonk]

I have had no ribbon for several years now and the only time the fender was off, it was pretty. I'd be careful with POR. I think it is much better to use it on rust or bare metal, if you pait it over old paint, it will flake off. Ask me how I know. Either way with the tape or not, I think with a good epoxy primer and topcoat, it will be years before you have any trouble. Are you painting the whole car, if so, sandblasting the area can be easy. The latest car I did was already painted nicely and it was tough taping and protecting the paint, but it worked nicely, it just took a great deal longer. Ben, I have heard about the acids in silicone, but have never seen the results of it. That is why I said calk too.

[Mike O'Meara]

I have used the Terostat and found it not worth the money. It is just a very thin, flat caulk and could be duplicated very easily for much less money. The photo shows the Terostat and some 3M caulk I've used. The 3M caulk is available at any body shop supply, is less expensive and can be formed to any shape needed.

[poorsha]

"The splices you are holding in your hand aren't from the factory."

Beg to differ.
My 74, which has never been apart, has exact same connectors.
My 72 also had them.

[Tom '74 911]

Mike - thanks for the info on the 3M strip caulk.

poorsha - that's why this board is sooo great! Thanks for posting that pic - makes me feel better about my car's history.

Thanks for all the info,
Tom

[poorsha]

Tom,
I am at about the same stage as you with my 74.
It is completely stripped and I am "slowly" getting it ready for paint.
I also took a lot of pics.
Have fun.