Hmmmmm...thats a lot more rust than advertised.......

Sorry.
Three words -- RUN. FOREST. RUN.

Yeah it's a bit more rust than I expected, when he told me it was media blasted, I assumed the whole car was blasted and all the rust was completely gone, but with the parts he has, all I would have to purchase would be the front pedal pan, then start prepping the car for paint after I put the other panels in. The rebuilt and upgraded "S" spec engine is the most attractive feature. As for glasurit paint, I would have to go elsewhere other than around where I live because the local Glasurit dealer cannot mix their paint correctly or even match their own paint that was mixed just a few hours earlier, that's why I switched over to Dupont (It costs more but the service makes up for it!)

Hmmmm. OK, thats some serious work for a DIYer, but not impossible or even THAT hard for a skilled DIYer with tools like a spary area, griders, compressors and so on.

I agree with my buddy John Cramer, that the end result of a early body with an S engine is a very desirable combo.

The remaining investment in metal bits will be low, but the labor is not to be scoffed at.

Hows the trim? That stuff can add up.

I think I would want to be really sure about the engine. With a change to S specs, what has been done to the fuel system? MFI?? If the guy has a built and functioning MFI system, thats huge.

Still, $4500 is cheap if the trans and the engine are all good to go.

Sikkens makes a great paint too, but you are right that the paint GUY is as important as the paint TYPE!

Sounds like a big project, but you sound fairly competant as well. Have fun with it and never ad up the recipts. =)
In addition to this board, you may want to check out www.early911sregistry.org. We have a good message board there as well which will be able to help you with all of the esoteric little details and parts sources you will need as you restore an early car. We also organize a weekly lynch mob for people who convert helpless long-hoods to Turbo Slant Noses! ;) j/k

Yes the engine and trans is good, the MFI is stock and working, the engine is clean, he e-mailed me back and I am getting it for 4500.00 :) . He has brand new aluminum or maybe stainless outer rocker trim - both sides, new seal plates (I hink that's right), new seals for the glass, except for the back window, body seals where the rear bumper skirts(?) meet the quarters and he also has a fiberglass "S" style front Bumper Panel, along with brand new trim for that and the rear, but I will probably get stock metal front bumper to put back on the car. I have contacted a VW guy here locally that does floor pans for about 65 bucks per side, he said he will help me cut out and put in all new floor pans front, back, and front pedal area (current front and rear pans are good but since I'm going this far why not change them all?) inner and outer rockers, both rear jack points and plates and the quarter panel patch by door jamb for 300.00 to 500.00 bucks, and he does a ton of VW's, so for that price I will probably replace it all and with his help it will speed the process up quite a bit. I have done quarter panels, bedsides, and rockers before, but I will take the help on the floor pans and pedal area as I want to ensure it's done right.

I will check out the www.early911sregistry.org forum as I am sure I will have questions about some about where some, I mean a lot of the stuff goes.

I have never sprayed Sikkens before. I have used PPG and I loved the way the basecoat lays down, it's almost like a factory paint job, but it also has a stiff price tag for the good stuff! The Diamont, is nice because you cannot streak it, its great for paints with lots of metallic (but the local supplier can't mix it right, BASF makes Glasurit, Diamont along with some cheap stuff called Limco the car lots love this stuff.)

GREAT!!!!!

Your metal guy is CHEAP!!!!! Keep HIM busy! What a DEAL!

Don't forget to do all the seam seal and proper metal etching primer stuff, your paint guy will have all that. Use what ever paint you can get that comes with a quality provider, and look ther other way on price. Hopefully you won't be doing this again for a looong time!

I think you got a TON of stuff for a very fair price. For giggles, put a $3K price on the engine and MFI, and then add up the cost of all the rest of the stuff. You did fine.

Bookmark this link: Ultimate MFI Resources Thread for when you begin trying to figure out that MFI system.

Well, the project just got slowed down :( , I have to wait about 60 days to have the pedal pan made, it will cost me about 200.00, not to bad but it will be woth it, I guess I will just work on the rest of the body, I have some left over etching primer, but I will have to get more seam sealer, was the seem sealer factory?

Oh, by the way, thanks David for the Link, I am sure that will come in handy sooner or later.