|
|
|
|
| Author |
|
|
Southern Class & Sass
|
A/C flush fluid
Does anyone know if A/C flush fluid will harm paint if you accidentally spill some on it?
I'm thinking about purchasing some A/C flush fluid. Although it's a bit pricey at $26 a bottle, it could be cheap insurance if it does not eat paint. Thoughts?
__________________
Dixie Bradenton, FL 2013 Camaro ZL1 |
||
03-13-2006, 05:49 PM
|
|
|
Registered
|
I used some stuff made by FJC, and it was more of an oil than a solvent. I don't know for sure but I do not think it will be a problem. Why would it get on the paint in the first place? You will need the special pressured can to shoot it through the system. I did mine in two different zones. I flushed the rear lines to the receiver/drier opening, then the front condenser lines to through the evaporator.
__________________
87 Carerra Coupe 04 GMC Yukon 07 Mazda 3 00 GMC Sierra |
||
|
03-14-2006, 07:28 AM
|
|
|
Southern Class & Sass
|
Well, I'm not planning on getting it on the paint. I'm just trying to decide how much I want to mitigate the risk. Obviously the most risk-free approach would be to remove the lines, but I'd rather not if possible.
__________________
Dixie Bradenton, FL 2013 Camaro ZL1 |
||
|
03-14-2006, 02:26 PM
|
|
|
Detached Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: southern California
Posts: 26,964
|
I used isopropyl alcohol. Picks up moisture, evaporates and doesn't leave a residue. Although I did have my lines out of the car. I used it to flush the evaporator and condensors and then left them sitting out in the hot sun for the rest of the day. PM Jim Sims he's the resident GOD on A/C systems.
__________________
Hugh |
||
|
03-14-2006, 03:09 PM
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Dahlonega , Georgia
Posts: 14,638
|
I also used alcohol, it's cheap and works well.
__________________
2002 Boxster S . Arctic silver + black top/int. Jake Raby 3.6 SS engine " the beast ". GT3 front bumper, GT3 side skirts and GT3 TEK rear diffuser. 1999 996 C4 coupe black/grey with FSI 3.8 engine . Rear diffuser , front spoiler lip with ducktail spoiler . |
||
|
03-14-2006, 03:49 PM
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Canton, CT
Posts: 50
|
I work for the packager of both Dura Flush and Dura II. We have packaged this flush for over ten years and never had a complaint about either material attacking paint. But, if you are using Dura Flush or Dura II, either will attack paint if it is allowed to sit on a recent paint job. The Dura II is more aggressive than the Dura Flush, but either will discolor.......or in the extreme strip new paint.
If it is original paint, or paint that has had time to fully cure you should be ok. Be aware that both will immediately strip your wax. In normal use, the flush solvent dries so fast that it will not have time to cause a problem with aged paint. I would be more concerned about getting old refrigerant oil on your paint. Old oil is acidic, and it will not evaporate like the flush. So if you get used flush on your paint, the flush solvent will evaporate away quickly, leaving oil reside. As the remaining oil sits on your paint it may create issues. The best thing is to handle it carefully so you don't have issues.
__________________
1980 911 SC 2017 Suburban 2022 Mercedes 450E - Wagon 2011 Jeep Wrangler |
||
|
03-14-2006, 04:09 PM
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Los Alamos, NM, USA
Posts: 6,044
|
The most benign A/C flush solvent (it is biodegradable) I know of is the mix that FJC sells (part no.:2032). I do not know what it does to paint; try a drop of it in an inconspicuous place and report back to us.
 Jim
|
||
|
03-14-2006, 06:12 PM
|
|
My Camaro
