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Best oil to use in an old engine

Hello all

I've got a '73 911T, all stock, and it's in pretty good shape. However, I do have a few minor oil drips. I'm going to be changing out the oil this weekend, and wonder what your suggestions would be for a decent oil. I live in S. Florida, and I don't take the car out of state at all. So I don't think I really need too much "cold weather" protection.

Also, I know that there are a few oil formulations out there for older cars, I guess they're easier on the gaskets, or a bit thicker, I'm not sure.

Your suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks
mark

Old 04-21-2006, 08:33 AM
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Kendall 20w-50, as per Bruce Anderson.

Keith Epperly
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Old 04-21-2006, 08:58 AM
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Welcome to the board . Let's get the first thing out of the way; it is customary to post pictures of your car as a newcomer to the board Let's see that '73T you have. We enjoy pics of P-cars.

As for best oil? I'm no expert by far, so I would simply say a good quality dinosaur oil 20W50. I use PennZoil for whatever that's worth. The search button on the top right is very usefull, you'll notice that this topic has been widely covered and good information can be found there. Cheers
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Old 04-21-2006, 08:59 AM
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I'll second the Kendall
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Old 04-21-2006, 09:10 AM
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what is the procedure for changing oil? more to the point. the procedure for refilling the oil once its drained and the plugs are back in?
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Old 04-21-2006, 09:13 AM
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I use Mobil 1 Fully synthetic 10w30 and live in Louisiana. I have done testing procedures on all sorts of oils trying to "burn them" while cooking them. The fully Synthetics lasted the longest before breaking down and the Mobil1 beat them all. The thing to know about which oil you want is knowing what the #'s stand for
the 10 compared to a 20 .. The 10 is a "heavier oil" whereas a 20 is thinner. The 20 will pass easier through small ports and what have you and in a "northern" state I would use a 20. Since you live in a southern state the 10 would prob be better suited.
The Second number is essentially the weight at which it will "thin out" to. in this case a 30 would be fine.
Old 04-21-2006, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by pmajka
what is the procedure for changing oil? more to the point. the procedure for refilling the oil once its drained and the plugs are back in?
Shut down the engine and just pour it in untill it's 1 inch short of filling neck The stick found inside is for scraping dirt from the engine

Best oil to use is mineral. Use synthetic and you will destroy the engine. It will start pouring from every hole. Just ask any person older than 60
















P.S. I'm being sarcastic. Don't try any of above things except maybe using mineral.
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Thank you for your time,

Last edited by beepbeep; 04-21-2006 at 09:33 AM..
Old 04-21-2006, 09:29 AM
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Thanks for the warm replies, per the "rules" here's a pic of the 73:



From the sounds of it, the toss up is between 10w30 and 20w50. I would think thicker the better, just for leak sake. Usually I let the car run for about 4-5 minutes to warm up before I speed off anyway. I think, for economy's sake, I'm gonna go with mineral.

Thanks for the replies, and I'll research more on the site.

Thanks again.

Last edited by jbt308; 04-21-2006 at 09:54 AM..
Old 04-21-2006, 09:48 AM
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Nice, Nice car!! I use Kendall 20W-50 as well, for no particular reason. I drive my car right from the start but don't push it 'til it warms up a bit.
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Old 04-21-2006, 10:07 AM
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Nice car.

If you do a search, you will find tons of info (mostly opinions) about oil. You could read yourself blind (and out of a job) taking it all in!

Welcome to the Board!
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Old 04-21-2006, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by GotaT
...The thing to know about which oil you want is knowing what the #'s stand for
the 10 compared to a 20 .. The 10 is a "heavier oil" whereas a 20 is thinner. The 20 will pass easier through small ports and what have you and in a "northern" state I would use a 20. Since you live in a southern state the 10 would prob be better suited.
The Second number is essentially the weight at which it will "thin out" to. in this case a 30 would be fine.
Gota, I think you have it backwards, viscosity increases with higher numbers, and I have always referred to the higher viscosity oils as the "heavier" oil that is thicker when cold. Perhaps our terminology is inconsistent.

I would be interested in what kind of breakdown testing you did. I also run Mobil 1, but only the extended performance, as I understand that the lower grades contain some mineral oil.
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Old 04-21-2006, 10:26 AM
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>The 10 is a "heavier oil" whereas a 20 is thinner.

Thanks for that info...I always assumed the 20 was thicker! I run Castrol 20W50 High Mileage oil in my 140K+ mile Carrera. Would 10W40 be a better oil for a high mileage engine (that uses a little oil...nothing excessive) in an always-warm climate like SoCal?
Old 04-21-2006, 10:31 AM
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just look in the owner's manual for the wt.

use synthetic for max. protection -- if it leaks then use a mineral oil; Kendall is said by at least two experts to be good; same experts say Castrol is not so good; avoid no-name oils...

everything else in the numerous threads you'll find with the search button is not that well supported
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Old 04-21-2006, 10:46 AM
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Sweet ride, but Holy Mother of Rubber Bumpers Batman!

I too always thought 20/50 was heavier/thicker.

and 0/30 was lighter/thinner?
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Old 04-21-2006, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by GotaT
I use Mobil 1 Fully synthetic 10w30 and live in Louisiana. I have done testing procedures on all sorts of oils trying to "burn them" while cooking them. The fully Synthetics lasted the longest before breaking down and the Mobil1 beat them all. The thing to know about which oil you want is knowing what the #'s stand for
the 10 compared to a 20 .. The 10 is a "heavier oil" whereas a 20 is thinner. The 20 will pass easier through small ports and what have you and in a "northern" state I would use a 20. Since you live in a southern state the 10 would prob be better suited.
The Second number is essentially the weight at which it will "thin out" to. in this case a 30 would be fine.
That is completely WRONG!!!

Bigger number indicate thicker oil that will tolerate higher temperatures without getting to thin.
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Old 04-21-2006, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
GotaT: The thing to know about which oil you want is knowing what the #'s stand for
the 10 compared to a 20 .. The 10 is a "heavier oil" whereas a 20 is thinner. The 20 will pass easier through small ports and what have you and in a "northern" state I would use a 20. Since you live in a southern state the 10 would prob be better suited.
The Second number is essentially the weight at which it will "thin out" to. in this case a 30 would be fine.


Mitch,

I don't know where you got your disinformation, but perhaps you should do some reseach next time before posting!

The 'W' suffix denotes viscosity measurements at 0°F, and the second numbers without a suffix denotes viscosity measurements taken at 212°F. The former numbers indicate hydraulic resistance when starting an engine from dead cold temps, and the later numbers are intended to be an indicator at operating temps. Higher viscosity numbers are heavier or thicker oils, whether the comparison is at 0°F or 212°F ...
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Old 04-21-2006, 11:11 AM
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Wow! Beautiful car!

BTW, 20W50 is thicker than 10W30. These engines need a heavier oil.
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Old 04-21-2006, 11:11 AM
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Ok this will end all doubts if someone can answer this Question.

What weight oil is used in 911 Race cars of Rolex and Daytona and LeMans.

they seem to run harder and hotter than our daily drivers. so their oil will provide better protection during Hotter months and driver conditions.
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Old 04-21-2006, 11:17 AM
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Dont use synthetic either.........BAD!!!

Oh and dont spell anything wrong OR make a statement that could be wrong or you will be humiliated and destroyed!!!
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Old 04-21-2006, 11:18 AM
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Yeah, the bumpers are pretty hideous(my knees unerringly seem to hit them everytime I'm in the garage), I'd like to get the earlier bumpers, but one thing at a time I guess. I used the car as a daily driver for about 2 years, and mothballed it when I got my Titan. The garage had always done the changes, but I'm going to be taking that duty over now that it costs me $70 to fill the stupid truck.

Back to the oil though. Maybe something like a 5W50 would be best, do they make such an oil? Easy starting to begin with, but maintains strength at higher temps.

I think if not, I'll go with 20w50 and be done with it.

Thanks for all the info/help.


Last edited by jbt308; 04-21-2006 at 11:58 AM..
Old 04-21-2006, 11:49 AM
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