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cak cak is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Palo Alto, CA
Posts: 269
Quote:
Yes, I should measure the idle voltage. It would tell me. I will.
Well that was very instructive, on a couple of points.

I hooked up my voltmeter to the cigar lighter, because it's easier to monitor that while blipping the throttle. With the key off, the voltage was about 11V ... even though voltage at the battery terminals is 12.5V ! That's quite a drop. I'm sure the contacts in the cigar lighter are none too clean. Anyway...

Switch on, start. Charging light stays on, voltage stays at 11. Bring revs to 2000, charge light goes out, voltage rises to 12.3 or so, stabilizes. Drop revs below 2000, voltage goes back down, charge light stays off.

So, even though the charge light is off, the battery may not be being charged. Very good to know... guess I'll try adding a resistor to my charge lamp sometime.

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Chris Kantarjiev
73.5 911T Targa
and the rest: 66 TR4A 69 FJ40 70 GT6+ 00 2.5RS
Old 02-21-2007, 08:40 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #41 (permalink)
cak cak is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Palo Alto, CA
Posts: 269
For what it's worth, I finally got a round tuit (had a surplus of square ones to use up), and installed the 5 ohm resistor as listed in the Factory Service Bulletin. The charge/alternator light goes out immediately on firing, rather than having to rev the engine to 2000-2500. Quite a difference.

Only time will tell if it keeps my battery and turn signals happier. It was an easy change, once I got the instrument out. I followed the Bulletin's directions, except that I added a bit of liquid electrical tape and heat shrink to keep all that +12V more or less insulated.
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Chris Kantarjiev
73.5 911T Targa
and the rest: 66 TR4A 69 FJ40 70 GT6+ 00 2.5RS
Old 08-04-2007, 07:16 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #42 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: N. Phoenix AZ USA
Posts: 28,943
Have been told for years that alternators have a series of diodes in them. One or more of them can be burned out and the alternator may still charge but until the one that controls the "charging light" burns out will it illuminate.

Wonder if the problem is with the diode pack and a defective diode here? The guys who got their light to come back on and function properly all seem to have replaced the diodes during a rebuild of the alternator.

Worth checking out...
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2013 Jag XF, 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins (the workhorse), 1992 Jaguar XJ S-3 V-12 VDP (one of only 100 examples made), 1969 Jaguar XJ (been in the family since new), 1985 911 Targa backdated to 1973 RS specs with a 3.6 shoehorned in the back, 1959 Austin Healey Sprite (former SCCA H-Prod), 1995 BMW R1100RSL, 1971 & '72 BMW R75/5 "Toaster," Ural Tourist w/sidecar, 1949 Aeronca Sedan / QB
Old 08-04-2007, 09:22 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #43 (permalink)
Magnaflux
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 41
What happens if you install one of the newer alternators in your older car but you do not add that resistor?

Does it blow up the diodes? or what?

Old 10-05-2013, 08:28 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #44 (permalink)
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